Benchmade RSK MK1 or Spyderco Manix?

S

SDDLUP

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Jan 7, 2005
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I am looking into buying my first really nice folder (over $100). I have narrowed my search to these two knives; a Benchmade Ritter Survival MKI ($105)with a CPM S30V blade (3.44"), it's much like a Griptillian except for the premium steel and thumb studs instead of a slot, oh and a drop point blade also, ....OR a Spyderco Manix (about $116), also with a CPM S30V blade (3.75" I think).

Both blade designs should work well, but I think the RSK MKI is more utilitarian. Also the RSK MKI has a much shorter grip, just as comfortable but not nearly as looong as the Manix. They are both totally ambidextrous I believe.

Any input would be appreciated!
 
Compare the two knives head-to-head:
RSK............Manix
S30V..........S30V
Noryl GTX....G10
3.82 oz.......6.1 oz
Axis Lock.....Lockback
3.44"..........3.75"
Note that the Manix has a 3.25" cutting edge listed while the RSK is 3.36" by my measure. All in all they are fairly close.

Handles would go to the Manix except that is probably a contributor to the extra weight. So if weight is a concern, the RSK wins. The Noryl GTX composite is comfortable IMO and makes for a good grip.

Axis locks in general are stronger than the lockback, but some folks don't like the Axis and the Manix lock is probably very robust.

Bottom line for me is the RSK is a better overall package. YMMV
 
I am going to have to say that the Ritter Grip is one of the most popular knives on Blade Forums. Go with the MK1 and don't look back...and welcome!
 
I see this Ritter model mentioned on the Forum, but not on their web site - what model is this?
 
The Ritter is a special model. Many companies do this, turning out a unique design for one company to sell. Emerson does this a lot. Some companies, like Camillus and Eickhorn (in Germany) turn out knives for other companies without putting their own names on them.

Basically, the Ritter Grip is a Griptilian with a blade modified in line with lessons learned from the Sebenza. It's a great knife. The original Griptilian is no slouch, either. :)

The Manix is a different kind of knife. It is very heavy duty and follows some design characteristics of its more tactical predecessors. The lockback design is as strong and reliable as an axis lock.
 
Welcome omboard SDDLUP. Was about to ask the same the question. Thanks to you, I'll get my answer as well.
 
"Luckily, a Blade Forums member bought one but decided to pass it on."

I'M FAMOUS!

I would go with the RSK - its a tank (im sure the Manix is a great knife - but Spyderco hasn't made a knife that I have handled yet that is as tough as an RSK or a 520a IMO)
 
I have both and am impressed with both. Lockup absolutely first rate. Came very sharp. Cut well. Seem to hold edges well.

I EDC the Ritter strictly because of the weight differential.

How one could say the lock on the Manix is less secure is beyond me. The backlock is a proven design, and on the Manix the parts are fairly massive. I just do not see lock security as an issue.

As for heat treat, I am unaware of testing showing that BM's heat treat is superior to Spyderco's. Enlighten us, please.
 
I'm also interested in hearing about BM's s30V heat treatment. Could you post a link or something?
 
Out of all the threads I've read on this and other boards you want a link... Okay, the TESTING Spyderco S30V vs. VG10 thread is what left me with impression that there was a Spyderco S30V issue. But heat treat wasn't the issue, it was the factory edge that gave the S30V blade problems. The factory edge is not an issue with any Benchmade I've owned in any steel. The RSK Mk 1 came with a very nice edge.

I corrected my original post to remove the heat treat as an issue and to clarify my lockback comment. While the Manix may be a very robust knife, it comes at a price -- weight.
 
The Manix is heavier and feels bigger. I think it is the heavier duty knife also. I have no basis for saying that except feeling and seeing it. It just feels like it can handle harder use to me.
 
I recently purchased an RSK (large) and have been giving it more carry time than some customs. I have med. hands and find the ergos exceptional. I particularly like the hunter friendly utilitarian design and that fact that it is S30V. Hard one to beat in this price range IMHO.
 
To me it doesn't get better than the Manix. Great knife! Only concern would be the weight and size, but quite frankly it hasn't deterred me to use it as EDC. After all it isn't any heavier than a Buck 110. The lockback was chosen because it can be made VERY strong and if I am not mistaken the Chinook and Manix (which are essentially identical in this regard) are still the strongest knifes in the entire Spyderco lineup.

As to the edge: My Manix could cut freehanging paper towls....quite a feat in my opinion. But it is well known and has been stated many times by Sal Glesser that S30V doesn't finish as nicely as VG-10. When asked about his favorite steels he said that he liked S30V best for its properties, but VG-10 for its looks. But that has nothing to do with Spyderco's S30V but is a general property of this particular steel. From my own experience it is possible to get a highly polished edge on S30V, but it take quite a bit of elbow grease!

I tried to find the post where Sal Glesser states that the griders and designers at Spyderco can see shapes and lines in VG-10 where they have difficulties with in S30V. I did find in my records the following statement by Sal Glesser:
"...It's (VG-10) a ingot steel. Edge holding is quite good, certainly in the top 20% of ingot stainless steels. Edge holding is not a good as the CPM steels.

Corrosion resistance is quite good. Better than most of the ingot and CPM steels, but not quite as good as 440C, MBS-26 or BG-42.

It will get very sharp. In there with AUS-8 & MBS 26 which are very fine grained homogenous steels..."

and this from Ken Onion:
"Another misconception is that harder steel makes for better edge retention. Harder is not always better .It is unlikely that there is going to be a steel in the near future that will not go dull after prolonged use . My recomendation is that more knife buyers learn to sharpen and maintain there knives . s60v Holds a great edge but becomes glasslike at 60-62rc. Even at 56-57 rc it is difficult for a novice to sharpen. S30v is easier to sharpen, I can get it sharper than s60v, has better toughness ,strength and corrosion resistance.
Focus should be on the overall balence of an alloy,taking into concideration all the other factors strength,toughness, edge retention ,sharpenability , corrosion resistance etc... as they are equally important when deciding on the proper alloy for your knife. Then make sure your edge geometries are correct as this will determine more about how a knife performes for the most part than the alloy it's self ."

But these are all issues concerning the general choice of steel rather than pitting S30V of two companies against each other. I think it would be very wrong to see the "Spyderco S30V vs. VG-10" as a problem with Spyderco's S30V rather than a comparison of very different steels (ingot vs. powder) with different strengths and weaknesses.
 
Thanks everyone! I have decided on the Benchmade Ritter Survival Knife MK I. The reasons are that I think it will suit my needs without being "too large". I think it will tackle any job I ask of it just fine while being easier EDC. I still really like the Manix but it would be more of a "special purpose" knife for me than a "do anything" knife.

The S30V steel is indeed excellent in the catagories that matter most in a knife that I want. Edge retention is of course nice, but I can't see sacraficing as much toughness as does S60V, for the knives I use.

All that being said I will be purchasing a couple of the Benchmade RSK MK I knives but may add a Manix in the future.

Thanks everyone!
 
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