I will answer the question, but first, let me make a recommendation. For the price of a range of bench stones, you can get a small 1x30 belt sander and some 220 or 320 grit belts. Using a sander takes some practice, but so does using bench stones. Get 2 or 3, 5 dollar knives of different sizes to practice on and you should have the movement down pretty quickly. You can use the Sharpmaker for final honing, either by using the bench stone setup, or the normal V setup, depending on how thin you grind with the sander. For reprofiling, a 220 grit belt on a small sander cant be beat, as long as you are able to use it properly. I was able to sharpen 8 knives, including a D2 AFCK, to a razor edge in less than 30 minutes before our July 4th cookout. I also used a 1x30 leather belt with honing compound, but its not neccessary if you already have a Sharpmaker. The different grits are available from woodworker supply stores, or from internet suppliers. I ruined about 3 knives learning to use the sander, which is why I recommend the cheap ones for practice.
If you have to go with stones, Lee Valley Tools sells a shop waterstone in 250/1000 grit combination. You could go straight to the Sharpmaker from there, then to the strop. A Norton Course/Fine India combination stone works too, but the waterstone will cut a little faster, I believe. Also, I find that the Norton Fine stone isnt that fine, so I just skipped it and went to the sharpmaker, unless I want a toothy edge. A full range of 4 DMT stones from 220 (black) to 1200 (green) would be expensive, but they wouldnt have to be flattened for chisels and such, and would cut anything a knife blade is made from. I can't really recommend Arkansas stones. They work, but the one I bought about 6 years ago did not cut nearly as well as the one I used before I went to college. To be honest, it may have been that I just took a step up in knife steels, and the Arkansas stones just couldnt cut the new steels.