Benefits of CPM-3V and/or Bohler M390 for fixed blade knife

[thebolt]

I reviewed some of the threads showing specs of these different steels but they are more complex than I need and difficult to understand. Can someone tell me the benefits or differences between these two steels? I am looking at afixed blade knife and need to decide between these two. My prime desire is for edge retention and corrosion resistance is not high on my list requirements.

I appreciate the help and education I continue to gain as I spend time here. Thank you to all!

 

[mjolnir74]

Folder or fixed blade?

 

[nccole]

3V is better suited for fixed blades imo. It excels at toughness, resisting rolling and chipping in impacts. M390 is better suited for a folding knife imo. It excels at holding an edge for a long time. There are very few folders with 3V (Spyderco Tuff is the only one I can think of), and I have never seen a fixed blade with M390, although I am sure someone has done it.

 

[cm_bushman]

I myself have been comparing these two steels for a while, in my quest for the best steel for an all-around camp/outdoors knife, and moreso since it's being offered in the GSO 4.1. Let me say right up front (in case you don't want to read my spiel) that I believe M390 is the better choice, especially if you care mostly about wear resistance, in which case it's one of the best steels around, along with S90v, 10V, and ZDP-189. 3V is my recommendation only if you think you'll be beating this knife to death, constant batoning into gravel, prying open trap doors, using it as a replacement handbrake on a runaway steam train, etc; or you are a fan of 8"+ blades.

From everything I gather, 3V and M390 are far apart in pretty much every category. In edge retention and wear resistance, M390 will outperform 3V by a good margin. Keep in mind 3V will hold an edge very well, comparable to D2 and longer than many other steels, but M390 is one of the best performers in this category. Second, M390 is very stainless, 3V is not, though it's not as prone to staining and rusting as true carbon steels or some other tool steels, like O1 or A2. Since this is low on your list, I won't harp on it further. The one thing you'll hear on here more than anything is about how tough 3V is. It's true, in fact, it's about 3x as tough an M390, which is itself about as tough as D2. That last is telling, because despite the large gap, you have to ask yourself if that extra toughness is at all practical, as steels such as these are much more than tough enough for most applications. That is unless of course you're looking into a large chopper or machete, then that toughness may be an attractive feature, though since you specified wear resistance foremost, I doubt it would come into play. Not to say M390 couldn't do all of these things as well as 3V, but 3V may withstand them better, and would give better piece of mind against chipping and breaking.

So in conclusion, M390 is my advice, especially since it's not as common, and if there's a small price difference, you're getting a more practical user steel (IMO) that is generally only available at high cost in customs.

 

[shqxk]

I myself have been comparing these two steels for a while, in my quest for the best steel for an all-around camp/outdoors knife, and moreso since it's being offered in the GSO 4.1. Let me say right up front (in case you don't want to read my spiel) that I believe M390 is the better choice, especially if you care mostly about wear resistance, in which case it's one of the best steels around, along with S90v, 10V, and ZDP-189. 3V is my recommendation only if you think you'll be beating this knife to death, constant batoning into gravel, prying open trap doors, using it as a replacement handbrake on a runaway steam train, etc; or you are a fan of 8"+ blades.

From everything I gather, 3V and M390 are far apart in pretty much every category. In edge retention and wear resistance, M390 will outperform 3V by a good margin. Keep in mind 3V will hold an edge very well, comparable to D2 and longer than many other steels, but M390 is one of the best performers in this category. Second, M390 is very stainless, 3V is not, though it's not as prone to staining and rusting as true carbon steels or some other tool steels, like O1 or A2. Since this is low on your list, I won't harp on it further. The one thing you'll hear on here more than anything is about how tough 3V is. It's true, in fact, it's about 3x as tough an M390, which is itself about as tough as D2. That last is telling, because despite the large gap, you have to ask yourself if that extra toughness is at all practical, as steels such as these are much more than tough enough for most applications. That is unless of course you're looking into a large chopper or machete, then that toughness may be an attractive feature, though since you specified wear resistance foremost, I doubt it would come into play. Not to say M390 couldn't do all of these things as well as 3V, but 3V may withstand them better, and would give better piece of mind against chipping and breaking.

So in conclusion, M390 is my advice, especially since it's not as common, and if there's a small price difference, you're getting a more practical user steel (IMO) that is generally only available at high cost in customs.

This pretty much sum it up! Thanks

 

[Ankerson]

I reviewed some of the threads showing specs of these different steels but they are more complex than I need and difficult to understand. Can someone tell me the benefits or differences between these two steels? I am looking at afixed blade knife and need to decide between these two. My prime desire is for edge retention and corrosion resistance is not high on my list requirements.

I appreciate the help and education I continue to gain as I spend time here. Thank you to all!

If edge retention is the main factor then M390 will be the choice by far as it will hold an edge a lot longer than 3V.

M390 is an excellent steel, very stainless, takes a nice edge and it's more than tough enough for a fixed blade that will be used for most tasks that involve cutting.

If you want a knife that can be pounded through cinder blocks then 3V would be the choice, if not then M390.

 

[Ankerson]

3V is better suited for fixed blades imo. It excels at toughness, resisting rolling and chipping in impacts. M390 is better suited for a folding knife imo. It excels at holding an edge for a long time. There are very few folders with 3V (Spyderco Tuff is the only one I can think of), and I have never seen a fixed blade with M390, although I am sure someone has done it.

I have a fixed blade in M390 that's .009" behind the edge.

 

[mjolnir74]

Jim that looks like a great outdoors knife to me. I wish spyderco would make a knife like that with Mr. Wilson.

 

[Ankerson]

Jim that looks like a great outdoors knife to me. I wish spyderco would make a knife like that with Mr. Wilson.

I have had it for awhile now, it works really well, it's 62 HRC and 10 degrees per side.

Makes a really good general use utility/hunting/outdoor/paring knife.

 

[Ridley75]

While I don't have any personal experience with m390, I am familiar with 3v. Two years ago I purchased a BRK lil Canadian as a thank you gift. This guy and I elk hunt together and in the past three seasons we, and one other guy have taken 3 elk...one elk each. He and I have always split the chore of field dressing (our friend did not know how so we did his elk for him). That first elk he used two buck knives with their famous 420HC, and needless to say neither would cut butter when we were done. I got him the BRK and he has used it on two elk the past two years. Skinning, deboning, and popping joints is pretty hard on a knife and I will say that that lil Canadian in 3v has performed admariably. It still cut with little to no effort, did not chip or role its edge and hardly showed any signs of staining...blood can be nasty on steel. I have read a bunch on m390 and don't doubt that it could do everything 3v can but I would be a little nervous about smacking it against bone, and jabbing it into hip joints in an effort to quarter an animal. However, I would bet that there are a ton of people who have never had a problem with m390 when quartering an animal so take my concern with a grain of salt...like I said I don't have first hand experience with it. My closest experience with m390 would be cpm m4 and cts20cp. M4 is tougher, and may be just a hair below in edge retention, while the cts20cp is probably about the same toughness, but a little better in edge retention. I really love m4 and cts20cp, so I imagine m390 would be great too.

 

[Ankerson]

While I don't have any personal experience with m390, I am familiar with 3v. Two years ago I purchased a BRK lil Canadian as a thank you gift. This guy and I elk hunt together and in the past three seasons we, and one other guy have taken 3 elk...one elk each. He and I have always split the chore of field dressing (our friend did not know how so we did his elk for him). That first elk he used two buck knives with their famous 420HC, and needless to say neither would cut butter when we were done. I got him the BRK and he has used it on two elk the past two years. Skinning, deboning, and popping joints is pretty hard on a knife and I will say that that lil Canadian in 3v has performed admariably. It still cut with little to no effort, did not chip or role its edge and hardly showed any signs of staining...blood can be nasty on steel. I have read a bunch on m390 and don't doubt that it could do everything 3v can but I would be a little nervous about smacking it against bone, and jabbing it into hip joints in an effort to quarter an animal. However, I would bet that there are a ton of people who have never had a problem with m390 when quartering an animal so take my concern with a grain of salt...like I said I don't have first hand experience with it. My closest experience with m390 would be cpm m4 and cts20cp. M4 is tougher, and may be just a hair below in edge retention, while the cts20cp is probably about the same toughness, but a little better in edge retention. I really love m4 and cts20cp, so I imagine m390 would be great too.

A lot would depend on the M390 knife, that BRK isn't exactly thin, I know because I had one here, but if the M390 knife was comparable to that one it would perform the same, but with even better edge retention and M390 is more aggressive depending on the edge finish.

I wouldn't take a really thin knife and jab it into joints etc, that's just asking for problems, and that would be 3V or M390.

 

[nccole]

I have a fixed blade in M390 that's .009" behind the edge.

Well Wilson is just the man then I did not realize how tough M390 actually was though, I just knew 3V is very tough. Waiting on my green 204P, this M390 talk got me excited again!

 

[Ankerson]

Well Wilson is just the man then I did not realize how tough M390 actually was though, I just knew 3V is very tough. Waiting on my green 204P, this M390 talk got me excited again!

I tested a South Fork in M390 that was .005" behind the edge and 62 HRC and it held up fine also.

 

[bdmicarta]

My prime desire is for edge retention and corrosion resistance is not high on my list requirements.

What about M4?

 

[Haffner]

I am looking at a fixed blade knife and need to decide between these two.

My best (or worst ;-) advice is buy one of each and see what works best for you!!!
Right now SURVIVE! KNIVES has a Christmas preorder special on their GSO 4.1 fixed blade and (believe it or not!) you can choose between Böehler M390 and Crucible CPM 3V steel.

This Christmas preorder special sells for 120$, so for 240$ you can have one of each. It's a steal. Buying just one Böehler M390 fixed blade from a custom knife maker will set you back somewhat more than that.

Here’s a post with some info and links on the GSO 4.1:
Looking for a 4.25" fixed blade in M390 or CPM 3v??? SURVIVE! GSO-4.1 @ $120.00
This offer runs until Sunday, November 18th at midnight (EST).

Heat treatment (especially of M390) is very important, but SURVIVE! Knives seems to use a well-known contractor, that has worked a lot with the two steels, so it ought to be in good hands.
Given that steel and heat treat is good, much comes down to the design of this model. It’s depends a lot on what you want to use the knives for. “survive-gear” just wrote about “would the GSO 4.1 in m390 do as a hunting knife”:

I believe it would be everything a person would need in a game knife. It's stainless properties make it very low maintenance and the edge holding is outstanding. It would certainly be more than comfortable to use for extended periods of time. Field dressing an animal is one of the many reasons I went with more of a spear point on the GSO-4.1, with a more noticeable sloped blade spine. When you are opening the belly cavity of your game animal, the heavier sloped spine is more inclined to slide over the gut sack, rather than piercing it.

And he designed it! I’ll add that in my view, it’ll make a superb EDC knife as well. A nice thing for outdoor people is that the scales are exchangeable and you can have a set of orange ones. Use these when you don’t want the knife(s) to get lost and switch to a more neutral color for EDC use.

Can someone tell me the benefits or differences between these two steels? …
My prime desire is for edge retention and corrosion resistance is not high on my list requirements.

As earlier said (and better than I could have done), those two steels are some of the best:
M390 when it comes to edge retention and corrosion resistance.

• CPM 3V when it comes to impact toughness.
• Despites this, they both have outstanding overall performance.
• Summit Materials suggests that their SM-100™ titanium alloy will be a “a revolution in knife materials”, but it’s so new, that there are very few real life experiences with it. Who knows, perhaps we’ll all be screaming for SM-100 next fall?

There are very few folders with 3V (Spyderco Tuff is the only one I can think of), and I have never seen a fixed blade with M390, although I am sure someone has done it.

I believe M390 fixed blades are otherwise very rare (and expensive). Strider has done some CPM 3V folders, and I have one of these:

Dalibor Bergam Regulus
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/931318-Titanium-Frame-lock-WIP-and-introduction

 

[Razorsharp-Travis]

Id go with M390. In my uses, I havent chipped the edge. Ive cut tin, aluminium, copper and accidentally dinged the edge a bit on steel, wort that happens is a small roll or a flat spot. It seems to hold a tough and very wear resistant edge. One stupid thing I tried for science was cutting guitar string (the thinnest one, didnt want much damage, the edge compressed, didnt chip. It magic steel made with pixie dust

 

[SPNKr]

The main draw of 3V is its extreme toughness. If you're gonna be chopping a lot I'd go for that. However, for general cutting tasks the consensus seems to be that m390 is pretty much the best steel there is. The combination of prodigious abrasion resistance, corrosion resistance, grit fineness, edge stability and adequate ease of sharpening and toughness is simply unmatched right now, as far as I'm aware.