Bent steel from factory/1095 heat treat

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remfallen

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Jan 2, 2024
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Hello All! I am new to knife making, and recently I purchased some 1095 blanks from amazon. I know they are probably not the best, but I want to go cheaper to start and I plan on buying some better steel soon. I noticed when I was trying to scribe the bevel lines, that the lines were really uneven. That's when I noticed that the steel has slight bend, and does not sit perfectly flat. I clamped both ends of the blank down to make it straight, and was able to get even scribe lines, but how do I correct these pieces and make them straight? Ive seen people do it at different points of the process. I will post a link to the steel. It comes from the factory annealed.

Also, does anyone have a good process on how they heat treat 1095? Not finding alot of info online. Thanks!

Link to non-supporting vendor removed per forum rules
 
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very seldom will you find steel bar from a factory that does not have some type of bow in it. Best bet is to order it Flat ground from a reputable supplier. However, to address the question regarding straightening, should be rather straight (get it) forward process before heat treat. Identify where the center of the curve is, clamp it in a vice and slowly (carefully) bend it in the opposite direction. So long as it is still annealed it will stay straight. For heat treat, can't help you as I don't use 1095.
 
navman said:
very seldom will you find steel bar from a factory that does not have some type of bow in it. Best bet is to order it Flat ground from a reputable supplier. However, to address the question regarding straightening, should be rather straight (get it) forward process before heat treat. Identify where the center of the curve is, clamp it in a vice and slowly (carefully) bend it in the opposite direction. So long as it is still annealed it will stay straight. For heat treat, can't help you as I don't use 1095.
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I guess I didn't really think about just putting it in clamp and slowly bending. Ill have to give it a try! I dont have a vise, may have to go get one. I suppose just clamping it to a table and bending should work the same. thanks!
 
I offer set it bow side up on the anvil (or a flat board) and put pennies under the ends. A few blows with a wooden/nylon/rubber mallet will usually straighten it.

The best tool for straightening things is a Japanese straightening board and tool. I tell how to make a set and show some photos here (Post# 12 & 15):

Flattening Stock

I have some 24" x 1.5" x 0.25" sticks of 5160 that came to me with a slight bow in them along their length. I cut a 9" section off for a full tang pattern, laid it out and roughed out the profile. The bow in the stock is still significant. What's the best/fastest/easiest way to eliminate this...
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
 
This is my usual process, if it is wrong, someone please correct me. If the bar is straight enough to work with, leave it as is. After you quench your blade during the heat treat process, quickly clamp the blade down flat while it’s still hot and let it cool. I’ve done this a lot and it works most of the time. If the blade still has a slight warp, I correct it during my second temper cycle.
 
remfallen said:
Hello All! I am new to knife making, and recently I purchased some 1095 blanks from amazon. I know they are probably not the best, but I want to go cheaper to start and I plan on buying some better steel soon. I noticed when I was trying to scribe the bevel lines, that the lines were really uneven. That's when I noticed that the steel has slight bend, and does not sit perfectly flat. I clamped both ends of the blank down to make it straight, and was able to get even scribe lines, but how do I correct these pieces and make them straight? Ive seen people do it at different points of the process. I will post a link to the steel. It comes from the factory annealed.

Also, does anyone have a good process on how they heat treat 1095? Not finding alot of info online. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Hello mate,

Welcome to the forum, I dont have much to add to the hammer it straight bend it in a vice advice,(But you dont have a vice) as you say clamp it to the kitchen worktop and bend it that way. What I will say is that I have been told off several times for posting links to steel suppliers as several sponsor the site, It might be wise to remove that or you will be getting into trouble before you start.

As regards HT here is a cut and paste from a steel supplier.

"Heat slowly and if possible pre heat at 300-500°C before raising to the hardening temperature of 780-820°C. Pre heating is especially desirable for complex sections. Soak thoroughly allowing 30 minutes per 25mm of ruling section before quenching. Light sections should be quenched in oil from the lower end of the hardening temperature range. Tempering is always necessary after hardening."

It may be worth contacting the guy on amazon and asking if he has any recommendations on that particular 1095 composition, it could be from half way round the world for all you know, information is Key.

Good luck! and enjoy your knifemaking
 
Without typing out yet another 1095 heat treat, use the sticky's at the top of Shop Talk. There is a search engine specific to Shop Talk. Go to that link, type 1095 heat treatment, and I bet there will be literally hundreds of replies.
 
Stuart Davenport Knives said:
Without typing out yet another 1095 heat treat, use the sticky's at the top of Shop Talk. There is a search engine specific to Shop Talk. Go to that link, type 1095 heat treatment, and I bet there will be literally hundreds of replies
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That was actually one of the first things I did and I didn't really see much outside of what I already know. Ill look again thanks!
 
DevinT said:
My guess is that he doesn’t have the proper equipment or quench oil for an adequate heat treatment.

Hoss
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I have a forge and plenty of canola oil. Gonna be getting some parks 50 soon. I also have a heating plate to heat the oil if need for quenching.
 
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Chuck at Alpha Knife Supply has some information on the steels he carries. You might want to take a look at what he says about 1095?
Scroll down to the bottom of the 1095 listing for ht info and other thoughts.
 
DanF said:
Chuck at Alpha Knife Supply has some information on the steels he carries. You might want to take a look at what he says about 1095?
Scroll down to the bottom of the 1095 listing for ht info and other thoughts.
Click to expand...
Thanks will do!
 
I agreed with Chuck's statement on 1095 and recommend using 80CrV2 for your first few knives. Reason based on result of my impact toughness test - 10x2.5mm with 2mm notched - steel source from and heat treated per alpha knife supply recommendation.

4specimens 1095 63rc 400F tempered: 0.5 ft-lbf.
3# 8670 62rc 375F: 1.8
2# 80CrV2 62.5rc 350F: 2.8
2# 52100 62rc 400F: 1.8
2# 26C3 63.5rc 350F: 1.1

setup: Evenheat & Paragon Ovens, Parks 50 oil, 2mm radius tungsten striker, precision ±0.5 ft-lbf.

Keen & stable edge require high strength and toughness, 62rc 80CrV2 offers such. Tackle wear & corrosion resistances later...
 
Want to revisit what I said above. ...when I say reputable dealers I mean folks Like AKS, NJSB, Pops, USA Knifemaker. They routinely check orders for straightness/flatness and offer flat or blanchard ground barstock. If you are ordering from a mystery site, or places like onlinemetals, you are getting steel as is from the manufacturer.
 
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