Best angle for EDC.

Joined
Jul 24, 2014
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So I've had my first Swamp Rat for a little over a month now and the fever already broke once! This morning in my early morning stupor/brilliance I placed an order for a Tanker/Tan Micarta RMD. As a silly is it may sound the RS I have now and the RMD in matching colors are my two grail fixed blades. Busses have their INFI and great lines... But the offerings from the Swamp call to me stronger. On to the point of things, I currently use a Ken Onion edition WorkSharp for most of my primary sharpening. I've been sharpening my s30v BM 940 and my RS in SR101/mod 52100 at the same angle, 22degrees per side.
My question is am I missing out on performance with either of these blades at this angle or have I found the sweet spot for both?
I feel like I should be able to thin the 940 down to about 17per side and leave the Solution the way it is, putting them both at optimum levels of casual to moderate EDC use. Also when I receive the RMD I'll need suggestions for the best "all around angle for that blade. Any ideas or comments?
 
Optimal angle is fairly subjective, and will vary according to blade steel and intended use. You shouldn't have any problems with the S30V at 17 fps (I'd consider going more acute, but that's the lowest setting on my sharpener).
I generally run about 20 dps on most of my "heavy use" fixed blades, and don't have any issues unless I do something stupid.
 
Thanks hhmoore! I thought the same about the s30. If I had the testes I'd take the angle guide off my WorkSharp and freehand around 15dps but I'm not that confident yet.
As for the 20dps on the larger fixed blade from what I've heard I might be able to get down to 19 without too many problems just cutting cardboard, food , occasional brush or small sapling but nothing majorly intense.

My main concern is that it seems as if the Swamp Rat has a keener edge than the Benchmade, no matter what I do. It may just be a not so great batch of s30 in this blade.
Before the RS I thought the 940 would be my sharpest knife for a while, definitely not to be outdone by a doubly thick fixed blade. Well I was wrong.
 
So much of the cutting ability of any given blade depends on the thickness of the primary bevel before the cutting edge is ground. The thinner the primary bevels are ground the better the cutting potential. You can sharpen a very thin beveled blade using a fairly obtuse edge angle and the blade will still cut well. Do the same thing to a blade with primary bevels ground overly thick and the blade will not cut well at all. In order to get more performance out of this blade a more acute sharpening angle is required.
The blades I produce in my shop are taken to a zero edge as a rule, this allows the purchaser to select a wide range of angles to sharpen the edge with. There is nothing more frustrating than trying to put a keen edge on a blade that is overly thick at the spine and with primary bevels that are not taken to zero at the edge.
The Ken Onion does do a nice job on edges, fast and repeatable.

Fred
 
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