Best blade shape/material to learn on???

[bodydamage]

I tried to post this in the maintenence and tinkering forum, but it wont let me , so I dropped it here..

I can get my blades acceptable to my standards (shaving/scraping, but not popping) using my Gatco down to a fine stone (300 grit) then leather or green compound on cardboard. I understand how to sharpen (burr, angle, etc), but am aving a hell of a time learning to freehand..

I want to pick up whittling, so I figure I need to learn how to sharpen my edges while out and about with a pocket stone. I grabbed a Smith diamond pcket stone and set off to sharpen the coping blade on my new (used, but new to me) Stainless Case Seahorse Whittler.

Its pretty darn dull.. Ive worked on it for a bit now and am having a hell of a time raising a burr on it. Do I need to try to learn on a fullsize bench stone first and then move to a pocket stone?? I got a really crappy burr one time then flipped it and couldnt get one again.. Im using the Sharpie trick and to me, it looks like Im hitting the edge.. What gives??


Should I be trying on a different steel or different size/blade shape?? Any ideas on a cheap sharpenable knife?? Ive got a few good blades and would really just need this one to learn to sharpen freehand with, so cheaper would be better..

 

[bodydamage]

Ive been working with an old Queen Trout knife w/ a 6" blade in D2. I got a useable edge tonight using just the diamond stone with no stropping.. Ill strop it tomorrow and see what I get..

 

[Chris "Anagarika"]

You can practice with easier steel such as 8CR13MoV or 440C ..

 

[dantzk8]

I can get my blades acceptable to my standards (shaving/scraping, but not popping) using my Gatco down to a fine stone (300 grit) then leather or green compound on cardboard. I understand how to sharpen (burr, angle, etc), but am aving a hell of a time learning to freehand..

I want to pick up whittling, so I figure I need to learn how to sharpen my edges while out and about with a pocket stone. I grabbed a Smith diamond pcket stone and set off to sharpen the coping blade on my new (used, but new to me) Stainless Case Seahorse Whittler.

Its pretty darn dull.. Ive worked on it for a bit now and am having a hell of a time raising a burr on it. Do I need to try to learn on a fullsize bench stone first and then move to a pocket stone??

Whatever is the steel you want to work on, you should to get a decent edge with a 300 grit diamond stone. However, larger the stone, easier it is.

I got a really crappy burr one time then flipped it and couldnt get one again..

Use patience, not strength. The lighter the hand, the better you get. The burr removal is a critical part of the sharpening process. When you remove the burr, take care to don't tear off the edge and blunt it. Use a very fine stone (i get good results with a ceramic one) or a strope and once again lightness and slowness are the way to go.

dantzk.