Best Bushcraft Grind?

Uncle Timbo

Uncle Timbo

Joined
Nov 23, 2005
Messages
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This is not a, which knife post, but which grind post.
Before I start, so used the search function and learned that the most say the scandi is for woodwork. I think others say the full flat grind, FFG, would be better suited for food prep. (Correct me if I'm wrong) Oh, and I learned of a high sabre grind?
My angst is, I'm only going to be carrying, ONE KNIFE, while I'm out in the wild blue yonder. That one knife has got to be able to, DO EVERYTHING, and do it well.
Bearing all that in mind, what grind do I what and how do I go about achieving it and maintaining it out, "there?"
Thank you ahead of time.
Tim
 
A full flat or high saber (partial height flat grind) grind. Scandi grinds are too limited in the tasks they are good at, unless you can live with a 3/32" or 1/16" thick spine, which seems a little thin for most bushcrafters. A heavy hollow grind or convex grind would also be good for all around, do everything, use.
 
I prefer saber or full convex. Full height flat is good too.

Whatever grind my knife has, I do prefer a convex edge over V edge. I get a lot less edge deformation with a convex edge.
 
Do either of you brothers have a link that could educate me as to how to achieve said grind?
 
I love sabre grinds the most for fixed blades and find them to be a good general purpose grind.
BTW you might want to pull back on the " ONE knife " thing and think about dropping whatever Victorinox model you probably already have in your pocket, because there's just some things a smaller thin pocket knife blade do better and there's the useful awl.

In the end sharp is sharp ( as long as its not too thick ), so go with whatever combination of blade steel, thickness, and grind you can proficiently keep sharp.
 
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HnS, I appreciate what you said about, whatever grind you can keep sharp.

What I meant when I said one knife was, I'm not taking one Bushcraft knife with a scandi grind and another with a FFG. I'll always have one or two pocket knives on me. Some things go without saying. :)
 
Kootaga13 said:
HnS, I appreciate what you said about, whatever grind you can keep sharp.

What I meant when I said one knife was, I'm not taking one Bushcraft knife with a scandi grind and another with a FFG. I'll always have one or two pocket knives on me. Some things go without saying. :)
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That makes perfect sense.
Something I've noticed with Scandi ground blades ( or a scandi sharpened with a secondary bevel ) is that they seem to require a much steeper angle when carving.
I think you just need to get a feel for a scandi grind with a 10$ Mora and see how you like it.
 
What is the difference between these? I know a convex is basically where the blade slopes to an edge, but I thought scandi & flat/saber grind are the same (where it makes a V)? Also, that the only difference between full flat/saber grind & not is that the slant goes all the way up the blade to the back edge?
 
One knife for bushcraft, fixed out in the woods, then a skandi of some kind. Sharp will cut, thin will cut deep, but when you need some robustness and wedge splitting battening work done then the Scandi types have the advantage. Have the grind high, not low like a sabre grind. Usually means for slicing the blade needs turning on its side. The wedge isn't so good for push cutting, but then its best for splitting which you want.

In truth, always best backed up with a thin keen folder.... and a Silky Saw.

For a hunting knife and food processor then hollow or full flat on thin stock is better.
 
Bushcraft conotes wood carving to me. A thin sharp knife of any grind works for my wood carving tasks. Examples: Mora or Swiss Army Knives. For batoning, I use a Mora (wrist sized branches) or a Ratmandu class knife for bigger tougher wood. In reality, we just gather up downed branches for most small fires. Any bigger fires or Bush building require an axe/hatchet or saw. You can get by just fine with the little stuff but extended stays demand the right tool. YMMV:)
 
Thanks my brothers. :)
I knew where to come and you didn't let me down. I figured this was a twist in the age old question of which knife for Bushcraft. Almost any knife will do the job if it has the correct grind.
 
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I'm not a fan of batoning because I have a good small hatchet, so that affects what kind of grind and how thin of a blade I like. I love 1/16 and 3/32 thick blades.
 
Basically for camp, wood processing work you need one wedge shaped blade... and a saw. That wedge could be an axe, or a scandi grind knife, depending on how much work needs doing. If you are taking an axe then you don't need a scandi sheath knife, it can be any grind you like.
You also need a thin keen small knife for those small tasks like food prep, carving. That is what your folder is for. The bigger blade to do the tough stuff and the little for those finer tasks.
Pocket knife.
Sheath Knife.
Silky Saw.
Optional Specialised tool: Axe, SFA, Hatchet, Skrama, or Kukri??

The Terava 110 or 140 is brilliant if you want a good knife to try out a scandi ground knife for not too much.
 
I checked out the Terava knives, and while they do look awesome, I feel a Mora might be better suited for my budgetary needs. Won't a Mora help me experience Scandi grind also?
BTW, thanks EVERYBODY for your feedback!
Every bit of info, gets me that much further down the road or path. :)
 
The Terava are best in class, better than the higher cost, tough build Moras. Which is why I recommended them.
Post to USA isn't much. If you can push your budget get a Skrama at the same time. Could be with you in ten days.
For the Price of a 5" Esee you would have a whole lot covered. The Terava Scandi is thick and so works well for battening and such. They prove why a scandi has advantage in some areas and a disadvantage in others; the reason for the exercise. Have your folder as the keen slicer.

I'm a fuge fan of these knives for their performance and price. The sheaths are very good too, so worth getting. Plenty of Y tube vids singing their praises. If you want to spend more then invest in a higher end folder, which you can carry and use EDC wise. The Silky Saw F180 are great and only $25 or so and found in the USA.
The important bit is to get out and use the kit, practice the skills which isn't "find log and whack on it". Boy Scouts of old did loads with a very small and inexpensive sheath knife.
 
"I checked out the Terava knives, and while they do look awesome, I feel a Mora might be better suited for my budgetary needs. Won't a Mora help me experience Scandi grind also?"

Yes.

The plain old Mora 511 is pretty good, and can be found for less than $10 shipped in in the US. I think these plastic handled models are more practical than the Classic models.
 
Everyone ends up with a Mora at some time. I've had them for years. I recommend the Teravas for Bushcrafty camp work. Get yourself a Mora and see how it goes. I prefer the Robust.
 
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