best Castable Refractory

JTknives

Blade Heat Treating www.jarodtodd.com
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Jun 11, 2006
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I have been thinking about using castable for my forge lineing because im planning to do a lot of welding in it. i am looking for a very btu iffencent lineing somthing around or under thermal conductivity of 4.0 btu-in/hr-F-ft^2. the less the better. im planning on doing a 2" thick lining on my forge leaving a 4" forge hole through the center. here is a picture of my forge so far. any comments on this or my forge is welcome. thanks
 

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I used Minrox MX on my last forge and it's rated to 3000 deg. So far I have very little cracking and no spalling. It's a bit more challenging to mix correctly then Green cast 3000 is. It is also $82 a 50 Lbs bag and the forge took four bags.:eek:

It may not available in your neck of the woods. Green cast is not as expensive but I have not used it on a forge yet, just for making crucibles and moulds.
 
I am pleased with the Cast-O-lite 30 from Darren ellis http://forgegallery.elliscustomknifeworks.com/
Stacy

i was thinking about using that but i did not know to eather use the 26 or the 30 the 26 is a little better insulator by .5 but would i notice that much of a diffrence in heat up time. how much time am i looking at for a warm up time for this forge. it 16" long and 8" wide that will have a 2" thick wall for refractory.
 
well im back to working on this forge. and still fightin with the idea of using castable. how does the cast-o-light compar to the soft fire brick in insulation value. i love the idea of a strong liner. hope to get some good comments to help make up my mind. :)
 
Jarod,

In terms of Thermal conductivity only, and to a rough approximation, Soft Insulating Firebricks are half as good as Inswool and twice as good as Kast-o-lite 30 LI. That sounds really good, but flux eats right through them just like Inswool. In general, the more robust the material, the less efficient it is...it's all a tradeoff....you need to determine which design variables are most important for your application.

-Darren
 
thanks, just the man i wanted to talk to. can i call you to marow. ya i gess ill go with the wool.
check list

5' of 1" inswool 2400

20lbs of satanite

half pint of ITC-100

5lbs of bubble alumina

0-30 psi reg and 10' hose with gage

1/4 ball and needle valve

1gal paaa quenching
oil

how does that look darren

email me what i would need to pay you and if theres somthing im missing.
 
You are talking to the right man now.
My only recommendation (and I suspect Darren's will agree) would be to go to 2" wool.
Also, his quick disconnect fittings make hooking up the propane line easier.
Stacy
 
Are any of these products available on a local level, or are they likely to need mail ordered?

I have a fireplace store here in town that I want to go talk to, but do they refer to the products differently? I just a couple days ago picked up a junked Fire extinguisher(ironically) that I think has potential as a forge body. It's a CO2 extinguisher, so should have good thick sidewalls, about 8" around. It there an optimum length based on diameter or is it all best guess?

But if I'm understanding this correctly, the fiber blanket products are the best refractory, but need coated with a lining like ITC-100, then soft firebrick, then castable refractory? I assume hard firebrick comes dead last?

that sound about right?

kindyr
 
you use the wool then on top of that you put a layer of satanite around 1/4" thick. then after it all drys you put a layer of ITC-100. then if you want to forge weld in it you need to put bubble alumina on the floor where the borax will end up. thats it, no fire brick or casable. you can use fire brick as a door but dont need it for the lining of the forge.

i am going to try and get 2 layers of 1" in the forge i just dont know if i will beable to fit it through the door. its onley 4" across.
 
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