Best electric chainsaw?

bandaidman

bandaidman

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Feb 11, 2001
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Have very rare need for one, but am tired of dealing with gummed up engine on my gas one

Partial to Stihl products but don't want to spend $400+ on an electric.

Any recommendations?
 
How much use is this thing going to get? If it is going to see anything like commercial use type action, then go with the Stihl. I bought my father a Black & Decker for ~$60 or $70 bucks a couple of years ago and it still runs like new. Mostly used for cutting up large limbs in their yard a few times a year, but I did use it to remove about a 30 foot holly tree not to long ago. Got the job done. Keep your saw chain out of the dirt. PERIOD. and make sure the bar & chain oil never runs dry. And keep the tension properly adjusted. Also spend a few bucks on a good nylon wedge.
 
It looks like Husqvarna makes one for a little less than $300. Might be worth looking into. For heavy use, I would want something by Stihl or Husqvarna.
 
The STIHL MSE 180 C-BQ Electric Chain Saw is about $379 with a 14 inch bar It looks pretty bad assed and I have always had good luck with STIHL chainsaws...I always change the chain though and have a chainsaw guy near me do it...not sure what brand he uses... the stock chain it comes with will not last too long...you have to be careful and not cut into dirt or it will dull faster than a pitt bull on porkchops.
 
Never used a chainsaw before,but
how about a sawzall?
130 bucks.
With a demo blade,I cut through all kinds of
tough wood and think it would work fine on trees.
The blades come in various lengths and are replaceable.
Bonus is you could use it for much more than
just what a chainsaw is normally used for.
 
This is an interesting suggestion. What do you need it for? For dedicated tree work a Sawzall will not be appropriate. It is easy to understand if you think about the difference between a jig saw and a band saw. Chainsaws are also used to do things besides remove or prune trees. A Sawzall could be an appropriate purchase. Just not if trees are your primary concern.
 
Having 200 year old oak trimmed back. Will cut 4-12" diameter limbs into firewood.

Trim trees 2-4 times/yr. No other use outside of that

My sawzall would have a stroke if I tried to use it on this wood :)
 
If a gummed up engine is your primary problem with your current chainsaw, what's the problem with going to a better gas one, or trying to fix up the current one, or something? Hopefully not a dumb question. I'm guessing it's the very infrequent use that's the problem, anyway. Electrics will deal with that a lot better in general, but you'll still need to oil the chain and charge up the battery every time, and low-quality batteries will definitely still give you fits. Especially if you leave it plugged in too long.

I'm just wondering if buying a better quality motor oil and some spare parts might be a much cheaper solution, but I'm neither a gearhead nor a chainsaw...hand? I'm going to go with that one. Neither a gearhead nor a chainsawhand.
 
I can't offer any good information, but this thread is relevant to my interests! I've seen an informercial for Oregon chainsaws that include a self sharpening system.

Do electrics actually work, like if all you need to do is prune a little and maybe cut up a small tree once a year or so that blows down?
 
I saw the infomercial on TV for the Oregon and this saw looks interesting..........http://getchainsaw.com/as-seen-on-tv.jsp

Upgrade the battery and it comes out to 500 bucks but you can make 4 payments. I think I am talking myself into this one.

I have a real nice 18 year old gasoline Stihl that runs great, but serious back problem makes it difficult to start and too heavy. By the time I pull the starter a bunch of times to get it running, I am ready to quit for the day.
 
If you only use one a couple of times a year, what about renting one when you need one and let someone else worry about maintaining it?

Bruceter
 
I have a Milwaukee that they made years ago.Still work well. I too would suggest you not buy cheap !
 
I have a Craftsman electric (110v.). It works great for light cutting. I wouldn't want to use it if I heated with wood and consumed whole trees, but for my occasional uses it is perfect. I don't know who the maker is.
 
Stihl gas..period. I'd need 1000' of orange HD extension cord.

Seriously you can manage fuel issues....fresh, non-ethanol gas with Sta-Bil works for me. Leaving ethanol blended gasoline in any small motor for extended periods is asking for grief. Here in FL de grading boat gas is called lemonade gas..seen more than a few folks at the ramp hooking their boat back up to their trailer when motor would not start.

I run fresh, non-ethanol gas with Sta-Bil in all my small motors...chainsaws, weedwhacker, blower, power washer, lawn mowers and 25 HP Mercury O/B...start right and run strong.

Best.
 
I would say take a crack at cleaning that carburetor or pay someone
to do it. Chainsaws are VERY easy to work on with a little bit
of mechanical skill or knowledge. When you use it and are done, be
sure you drain the fuel and chain oil and run it dry.

If you are looking to buy a new saw, look at echo. My cs400 takes
2 pulls to start after sitting all winter and most of summer.
 
How long can you keep gas with Sta-bil in your chainsaw?

Unk said:
Stihl gas..period. I'd need 1000' of orange HD extension cord.

Seriously you can manage fuel issues....fresh, non-ethanol gas with Sta-Bil works for me. Leaving ethanol blended gasoline in any small motor for extended periods is asking for grief. Here in FL de grading boat gas is called lemonade gas..seen more than a few folks at the ramp hooking their boat back up to their trailer when motor would not start.

I run fresh, non-ethanol gas with Sta-Bil in all my small motors...chainsaws, weedwhacker, blower, power washer, lawn mowers and 25 HP Mercury O/B...start right and run strong.

Best.
Click to expand...
 
RobbW, Sta-Bil MAY be snake-oil but has worked for me.

Labels says treated gas good for ONE (1) year..product has a two(2) year shelf-life after opened.

Like a lot of folks my small engine uses, even in FL, have seasons or times when they are used heavier than others. Because I have a lot of engines that require gas+oil or plain gasoline..I typically will run out of gas and refill tank except for my boat and have dual tanks that I alternate. I use one six(6) gallon storage container for regular gas and a 2.5 gallon for gas+oil..always top off engines before refilling those storage containers. I might slide from one(1) year to the next on boat gas but never two(2) years.

Do remember in the old pre-ethanol days, each Fall would park our push mower beside our OH home with an old shower curtain for a cover and it would always start on first few pulls each Spring - may not have done a great job of cutting the grass but great starter.

Best.
 
Thanks Unk.

I have a friend whose gas turned to jelly in a power generator and was an expensive fix, but that was untreated gas over I think 2-3 years.

For me, I've been using Sta-bil in all my small engines, parking them full, but replacing the gas if it sat for 3 to 4 months. It looks like I can extend that as long as I leave them topped off.

I do drain my snowblower each spring, and put oil in the chamber and leave it with the valve closed. I'd been thinking of doing that off-season with my lawnmower and power generator, too, just to be sure. I guess I'll have to go back to the instruction manual and see.

Thanks for the word about Sta-bil. Sounds like it's even better than I expected.
 
bandaidman said:
Have very rare need for one...

Any recommendations?
Click to expand...


Rent.

Why own electric- or gas-powered if you use it only one or two times per-year? Just rent one.

For $24/day, I can rent a 24", 3.5HP Husqvarna chainsaw. This is an approximately $1200 serious professional chainsaw. I can use it for a whole day for $24 and then return it and not have to worry about maintenance or fuel-fouling or anything.
 
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