Best Field Sharpener?

BoxANT

BoxANT

Joined
Mar 23, 2008
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What do you feel is the best sharpener for the field (hiking/camping)? Weight, size, effectivness?

I'm debating on taking Sharpmaker but seems too heavy for hiking. I have a cheap little sharpener but wouldn't want to use it unless i had to for fear of doing more harm than good with it :(
 
What do you do in the field that requires a full sharpening so often? :confused:

In any case, any deterioration in the field should be limited to to edge rolling or chipping and not actual metal wear. If I really needed to do significant work I'd bring a small ceramic stick or DMT stone to align/microbevel the edge.

If you don't know how to freehand, though, it becomes more difficult...
 
Spyderco double stuff sharpener or small DMT flat. They are light and effective. But I also don't use serrated edges in the field.

sp303mfjb.jpg


Item: 303MF
Description: SC303MF SPYDERCO DOUBLE POCKET STONE FINE/MEDIUM
Spyderco Double Stuff Pocket Stone. Measures 5" x 1" x 1/4". Fine grit on one side, medium grit on the other. Comes with leather storage case.
 
All of the above will work. But if you´re looking for a cheap, lightweight and effective field sharpening solution, take a piece of 600-1200 grit waterproof sandingpaper and use your thigh as a stropping board. This works great, and the sanding paper is very durable..
 
DMT credit card sized diamond sharpener.... available in 3 grits to suit your needs. They work well considering their size and sheer lack of weight.
 
I do believe the sharpmaker could make a good field sharpener, seeing that it will finish a sharpen for me to tree-top hair sharp. I have carried it out hiking a few times but never had to use it.

The benchmade field sharpener is also good if you dont mind increasing your edge angle to like 60 degrees, but of course that is last minute option
 
+1 on sandpaper, costs and weighs next to nothing and if you use your thigh as a stropping board, you'l get a slight convex edge after awhile.
 
3wolves said:
+1 on sandpaper, costs and weighs next to nothing and if you use your thigh as a stropping board, you'l get a slight convex edge after awhile.
Click to expand...

I have tried this many times, studied the barkriver collectors forum FAQ and have yet to have any success - using a mousepad, leather or cardboard backing on sandpaper.

Every time it is the same result - my knife usually gets duller than it was or only slightly sharper. I've never been able to get it to shave with the stropping method like I can with the sharpmaker. I also find that I have to do double duty - sharpening two or three times with the full medium corner/flat fine corner/flat to get the knife back up to parr after attempting the stropping technique. The only commonality is that I've always attempted the stropping technique with a V-bevel blade.

I recognize that it likely something I'm doing wrong because there are so many favorable reports on the method. However, if this is to be your field technique, I would only say make sure you are satisfied with your ability to sharpen accordingly before you adopt it. Don't just assume it works, you might be like me and end up just dulling your knives in the field.
 
Don't let the sanding paper curl around the edge..
(you need some thigh muscle ;))

Experiment a bit.
You can wrap the paper around a stick to create a sharpening rod, or hold it flat on a harder surface to make a 'benchstone'.

I used all of these, and sandpaper is the way to go for me nowadays..

Fieldsharpening.jpg


Gatco dogbone
3M wet&dry 1200 grit
DMT folding pocketsharpener ( very good!)
DMT creditcardsharpener
Fällknivens D3T sharpener (excellent!)
 
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Dont feel bad, I have never been able to get the strop on the jeans thing to work either.
 
Get a SMOOTH butchers steel ~12". (for carbon steel)
Get a 1200 grit diamond pocket stone (Norton) (for stainless)~1"x3".
 
I carry a pair of DMT DuoFold pocket sharpeners in my back pocket next to a Spyderco Military. One is X-Coarse/Coarse, the other is Fine/X-Fine. The extra length over the DMT keychain sharpener is a big advantage, especially on longer blades. The four grits let me do anything from a quick touch-up to restoring a completely trashed edge in the field.

If carrying two sharpeners is too much, a Coarse/Fine DuoFold will take care of most field sharpening. It just takes a little longer to remove edge nicks and doesn't produce as fine a finish.
 
I use a smith's diamond pocket sharpening rod, it's the size of a pen and doesn't weigh much. They sell at wally world or any outdoor store for about 6-8 usd.

I also recently acquired a pocket size smith's medium grit arkansas stone. It's a great buy, but I'll have to admit that the diamond rod is more all around useful for sharpening a variety of things.

The diamond rod can sharpen serrations, plain edges, and fishing hooks.

Here's the diamond rod: http://www.rei.com/product/726793

The wider end has a flat side that isn't seen in the picture, that's the side that you use on your blade, the skinny/tapered end is used for serrations, and the rounded off side has a rail to run a fishing hook through. Hope this helps, J.
 
I keep a collection of DMT diamond hones in my bag. They don't take up a lot of space or weight but let me put a functional edge on most anything (if it was ever sharp to begin with) with a few minutes work.

From left to right : x-coarse Diafold, coarse Diafold serrated blade sharpener, fine Diasharp, coarse Diasharp
 
Nice to see so much of very nice fieldsharpening solutions here..
I guess it all comes down to personal preference, and finding out what works best for you, under any given circumstance..


What about the sharpshim by Blade tech?
Anybody who uses one and like to comment?
 
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