Best freehand sharpening system for INFI?

D

dasper

Joined
Dec 30, 2007
Messages
14
Hey guys,

As the title suggests, im looking for the best freehand sharpening system for INFI steel. Sandpaper/mousepad, diamond stones, ceramic, etc? I need something portable and easily field workable while living out of a backpack for long periods of time with the ability to repair a damaged edge, sharpen a dull edge as well as touch up a moderately sharp edge. There is no need to mention the benefits of a table mounted sharpening system (although I appreciate that for some purposes such a system would be easier/more effective). In the past I have simply bought cheap knives and thrown them away when theyve broken or become too dull to use but I (hopefully) have a Busse on the way and with a quickly approaching trip to Afghanistan I am looking into an effective field sharpening system.

Thanks for the help!
 
Depending on the size an 8" or 10" DMT DuoSharp, Fine/Extra Fine. and an XXXFine (nominal 8000 grit).

The alternative is a combination belgian (natural) hone.

The first set-up is $150ish, the second is lots harder to find and maybe $200-$250.

INFI sharpens lots faster using diamond or garnet than other abrasives. Diamond paste and a strop works, cheaper but you'll need significant skill and patience. The belgian hone 'matches', ie is equally bragworthy. top shelf.

Sharpening skill pays you repeatedly for learning, lots of looking smart for the time invested.
 
Hi Mitch,

The sharpening edge would be around 4.5-5.5" (been looking at BA, SAR4 and SkinnyASH)

Thanks for the info. Ive been looking at Belgian stones but it seems they may be just for touching up the edge of an already sharp blade (grit equiv of ~4000/8000 for yellow/blue respectively)? I like the concept of using natural stones but im not necessarily looking for something 'bragworthy', more something reliable and effective. If it happens to be bragworthy too thats fine but if I wanted to show off I would pick up some $5,000 japanese clay and spend all night taking pictures for the forums :)
 
I would say that the steel matters much less than the type of edge you prefer, when it comes to a sharpening system.

I put convex edges on every knife I sharpen, and all my super fine touch-up work can be done with nothing more elaborate than a leather belt for stropping, which I'm usually already wearing anyways.

Field sharpening can be done with an altoids tin containing a scrap of mousepad and some sandpaper pieces, but it's not going to be as easy as doing it on a flat surface. I recently upgraded from the mousepad to a belt sander for doing my sharpening at home, but will probably still take the scrap of mousepad in the field with me. I have the advantage of being back near my sander pretty frequently, though, so that's something to consider - you most likely won't have such a luxury ;)

For v-grind or asym edges, I'm sure others have much better advice than I do, as I'm a huge fan of convex and haven't messed with a flat edge in quite a while.
 
The R. G. Russell Field Sharpener is a lightweight little package that should be worth carrying wherever you go.
$39.95 on their website.
I use ONE of the four ceramic rods provided to touch up my Emerson CQC515 freehand whenever the need arises.
 
Hey Dasper, I'd strongly recommend convexing the edge of your blade. I find it to be superior and very low maintenance compared to the standard V edge. It only requires occasional stropping. Some leather and veritas compound is all you need and it is very lightweight and portable. I can't imagine hauling a heavy stone around with you in the field (but if you do go with a soft arkansas). The great thing about INFI is that you will find it does not require sharpening very often. With a convex edge I have a habit of simply stropping it on my jeans/shorts leg after use for a couple strokes. It almost never needs a serious sharpening. :thumbup:

On another note, I'm sure you will be happy with your INFI choice, but also look into a SAR5. It has more overall edge in a more compact package than the BATAC (see pic).

IMG_1814.jpg
 
I just got a Smith's 3 stone kit at Lowes.
I have sharpened all the kitchen knives,SNG,Griptilian and my Military.Very fast and got a very sharp edge in no time.I had been using a Spyderco 204 but it takes forever on it.
 
Hey everyone, thanks for all the advice, its given me a lot to read up on.

Mustard and kd - Convexing sounds like the way to go from a lot of people but the main thing I would be worried about is denting/chiping/rolling the edge and then being left to fix and reconvex? Diamond seems to be recommended for removing material and steel seems to be recommended for straightening but these methods seem like they would de-convex the edge. When I mentioned stones I was thinking of the matchbox sized travel stones but simply touching up via stropping on jeans/belt/boots/whatever sounds like a ridiculously easy way to insure an always sharp blade and a few scraps of sandpaper dont add any noticeable weight.
 
Sorry my Google Fu was weak yesterday.

I obviously just do the same thing as touching up the edge but with coarser sand paper to fix any bigger problems as well as to create the initial convex. Sounds easy enough. Seems like it would needlessly take off steel when fixing edge rolls though vs a traditional steel straightening?
 
You can field improvise a steel (Thanks Trumby), by using the shaft of a large (chrome plated is best), screwdriver. Proper steels are smooth anyway and Ian told us what they used to use in the bush. Smooth wire fence will also work.

Besides that, sandpaper. Mousepad or flat surface, whatever you can manage 'camping out'.

Where you are going, weight and space will be critical, that's why the sandpaper. I'd get the wet/dry in grits from say <100/200 to perhaps 1000 or less. Much higher than that is not really needed for what you are looking for in the field.

One of those (Can't remember the name) flat diamond sharpeners that fit in the pocket might be nice for touch ups.

I use Japanese waterstones myself, but would not lug them around anywhere :p and my sandpaper goes on a granite reference stone, which doesn't move at all.:D:D

Rob
 
...looking for the best freehand sharpening system for INFI steel... something portable and easily field workable... repair a damaged edge, sharpen a dull edge as well as touch up a moderately sharp edge.

emphasis added
Click to expand...
For a field *sharpener* I too advocate diamonds.

Sharpening implies removing metal from the edge, not just rearranging metal to realign a rolled edge. Note that I like a little "tooth" to my edges and simply stroking an INFI edge along a medium-to-fine grit diamond rod sharpener delivers that type edge easily.

The DMT Diafolds or folding diamond sharpeners are one place to start looking. You can also get diamond sharpener rods that have a handle (chef's steel configuration) in several sizes, including a 3-grit 5" rod size which would fit pretty easily in a pack if you trim down the guard flange. There are also a lot of pocket-size diamond rod sharpeners that offer relatively light packing weight and small form factor for tucking in a corner of a pack pocket.

There are lots of other size diamond rod sharpeners that should work for you as well.
 
Maybe a bit off-topic, forgive me, but I'm getting a used Basic 3 somewhere next week and was wondering if I can sharpen the edge on a Spyderco Sharpmaker ? Or would running it along a sharpening steel do the trick ? I don't think the edge is that bad judging by the pic...

busse.jpg


I'm a total noob when it comes to sharpening. :o
 
A Sharpmaker will work just fine. A sharpening steel does not really sharpen, but just moves the metal back into line.
 
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