Best knife sharpening system

minnzoo

minnzoo

Joined
Nov 30, 2015
Messages
60
I'm just starting to collect decent knives and I would like to know the best and safest way to sharpen my knives. This will also mean being able to sharpen expensive knives without worrying too much that I could screw them up. I searched briefly for this topic and was unable to find a thread. If there's one already here (which I can't believe there isn't) please just direct me to it.

I just got ZT801 with anodizing from Blades We Love and I have a Silent Solder on order. I'm very excited about my new hobby and I'm looking forward to interacting for you all.

Thanks for the help guys (and I assume some gals)

David
 
If you search the maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment subforum I'm sure you'll find lots of great info to help you.
 
look into wicked edge or edge pro apex, they are one of the best out there, but you better be willing to shell out some $$$.
 
For me, I grab the KME first, Edge Pro second for those odd blades. I don't have a Wicked Edge. Also keep a couple of Sharpmaker's around for touch ups.
 
I bought a sharpmaker in 98, bought a we pro pack11 with the suitcase a couple years ago.
I haven't "set up" the wicked edge in probably a year.
If you buy a basic sharpmaker and then add diamond and ultra fine rods I think all your bases are covered (along with strop).
To say this subject is SUBJECTIVE is a gross understatement.
Why not do like we all have and spent hundreds or close to a thousand (yours truly) on Japanese waterstones, diamond plates, clamp systems, cheap clamp systems, grandpa's stone that you found in the bottom of Folgers can in his garage.
I have seen members on the forum that sharpen on a double sided diamond stone (fine &course) and then strop (toothy edge) and it looked like it came from the factory that way, beautiful that is.
I have attempted to sharpen free hand several times in my life and the blade looks like it's fallen out of the bed of a pickup and skipped down the road.
I think there's a thing called patience involved in all of the above
Enjoy yourself whatever you choose and take care
 
The Spyderco Sharpmaker and Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone sets are both good basic sets that offer guided angle to sharpen at the same angle consistently, and multiple grits, though the Sharpmaker only comes with two initially. I find that the Sharpmaker is a bit more flexible, and handles recurves and serrations better than the Lansky, but the Lansky is more consistent in setting an angle. You can upgrade to a Wicked Edge or Apex Pro, which are very impressive (also expensive, however), but I've never found a need to - if I can get my knives to take shavings off of an individual hair with the Sharpmaker, I'm content.

If you're worried about messing up an expensive knife, just be sure to avoid powered sharpeners - while they're good for repairing edges that are absolutely destroyed (basically every time somebody brings me their kitchen knives to be sharpened for the first time) it's a power tool, it can mess up a pretty finish in a split second.

Of course, you could always learn to free-hand it. I'm pretty bad at it (I don't have particularly steady hands) but some people find it almost therapeutic, and can get some truly insane edges on their knives.
 
There are all sorts of gadgets and gizmos out there, but I find the best results come from a couple of these...

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Plus a few different grits of these...

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...Plus a bit of this.

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Start with some cheap kitchen knives. Ones from the local thrift store will do. Just imagine you're trying to take thin slices off the stone (15-20° per side) and keep working on the coarse stone until you bring the scratches of the stone all the way to the edge on both sides, then move to the next grit. Progress as desired, using an equal number of strokes per side, removing the scratches of the previous grit. If you get a burr on the edge, remove it with a few light strokes of the stone. To find dull spots, look into the edge under good light. Any spots that shine are flat, dull zones the need more work. To find a burr, rest the knife on your thumbnail under its own weight and wiggle it side to side. If it grips solidly in place, that spot is sharp. If it skates in one direction but sticks in the other, you have a burr or rolled edge on the sticky side that needs to be removed. If it skates in both directions, it's just plain dull and needs more work on both sides. Another way to identify dull spots is slicing copy paper. A sharp knife will cut cleanly, and you can feel areas that need a little work by identifying spots where the edge catches or snags on the paper.

That's all a very simplified version of things, but it'll get you a very functional edge. You can worry about finer details once you sort that basic process out. Freehanding lets you sharpen just about anything with just about anything, so it's the most versatile approach by far. Just start learning on cheap stuff before trying it out on your fancy new blades.
 
Amen - learn to sharpen free hand and you will never have to depend on gadgets again.
Rich
 
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