Best Lock?

Joined
Feb 8, 2008
Messages
1,304
There have been a number of threads debating what is the best kind of lock for a folder: axis, compression, framelock, etc.

Much as these are fun, I was just wondering if we are really analyzing the right factor?

Here’s my argument: doesn’t it depend as much on the quality of the knife, regardless of the type of lock? Won’t a well made liner lock match or beat the strength of a so-so quality framelock, e.g.?

Here’s what got me thinking: a few weeks ago a friend of mine told me his dad had a linerlock fail, and the old guy got a small cut. My friend also noted his dad always buys junk knives.

Around the same time, however, I got an Emerson Mini A100. I love it. It also has a liner lock, but that thing is about the most solid folder I have. You can hear the heft when the blade snaps into place.

So how much has to do with the type of lock, and how much with the quality of the knife?

By the way, I’m not trying to pick a fight. I enjoy those “best lock” threads too. Just trying to extend the conversation.
 
I prefer the axis lovk because it combines the ease of closing a liner lock with the strength of a a backlock or compression lock, and also because of how smooth it makes knife opening. Benchmade claims that their axis lock is the strongest lock on the market, but I really don't know if this is true or not. I guess you could say that the axis lock is best because all the knives made with it are top quality, whereas not all liner of backlocking knives are.

btw, I have had a back lock fail on me before, not injuring myself thankfully, but I've never had a liner lock fail which is odd.
 
Technically, a balisong is the strongest lock.
IMO, the strongest locks I've handled are in order, assuming equal quality:
1) Balisong
2) Frame Lock
3) Back Lock (I don't have the trust in them that I do in a frame lock)
4) Liner Lock
5) Switchblade Button Lock (I treat them like slip joints, I just don't trust them)
 
For me, a backlock. That's just my opinion, based on simplicity and ease of use.

thx - cpr
 
I prefer the axis lovk because it combines the ease of closing a liner lock with the strength of a a backlock or compression lock, and also because of how smooth it makes knife opening. Benchmade claims that their axis lock is the strongest lock on the market, but I really don't know if this is true or not. I guess you could say that the axis lock is best because all the knives made with it are top quality, whereas not all liner of backlocking knives are.

btw, I have had a back lock fail on me before, not injuring myself thankfully, but I've never had a liner lock fail which is odd.

I am inclined to agree with the Axis mechanism having the strongest lock. HOWEVER, and that's a big however, the Axis lock is only as strong as their omega springs.

That's why the ball bearing lock (Spyderco's version) is better IMO. A coil spring is much more robust than an omega spring.

Having said that, the people that have had omega springs break are probably in the majority (<--typo; I meant minority). Otherwise, you'd see Benchmade recalling tons of knives, or them even modifying their lock design (which William Henry conceived and sold the rights to to Benchmade).
 
Last edited:
There have been a number of threads debating what is the best kind of lock for a folder: axis, compression, framelock, etc.

Much as these are fun, I was just wondering if we are really analyzing the right factor?

Here’s my argument: doesn’t it depend as much on the quality of the knife, regardless of the type of lock? Won’t a well made liner lock match or beat the strength of a so-so quality framelock, e.g.?

Here’s what got me thinking: a few weeks ago a friend of mine told me his dad had a linerlock fail, and the old guy got a small cut. My friend also noted his dad always buys junk knives.

Around the same time, however, I got an Emerson Mini A100. I love it. It also has a liner lock, but that thing is about the most solid folder I have. You can hear the heft when the blade snaps into place.

So how much has to do with the type of lock, and how much with the quality of the knife?

By the way, I’m not trying to pick a fight. I enjoy those “best lock” threads too. Just trying to extend the conversation.

I agree 100% Quality of the knife has everything to do with it. A well made liner lock is as reliable as a frame lock.

Liner locks get a bad name because they are used on so many cheap knives. Because a cheapy liner lock is the cheapest lock to make. But people focus on the lock instead of on the fact it was a cheaply made lock.

To extend the argument a bit more, I differentiate between "strong lock" and "reliable lock". I don't need strength from my knife. I am not going to stick it into a wall and hang from it. But I do need a reliable lock, one that will stay locked until I purposefully unlock it.
 
In my experience I've had a frame lock fail in an otherwise impressive custom as well as a liner lock fail also in a custom. I have a liner lock from arguably the best maker of tactical knives that seems on the verge of failing!:eek:. I don't abuse any of my knives and I don't run them through stress tests.

The knives I have that seem to have the strongest locks are the stud locks on the Ken Onion Kershaw Spec Bump and Mini Mojo. I also like the ease in which the stud lock disengages.

I also find the ball lock on the Spyderco Phoenix to be solid and reassuring. I think that the button lock on my Allen Elishewitz Anubis is very solid as well.
 
...I differentiate between "strong lock" and "reliable lock". I don't need strength from my knife. I am not going to stick it into a wall and hang from it. But I do need a reliable lock, one that will stay locked until I purposefully unlock it.

Well said. That has also been my experience for 55+ years. Reliability is far more important to me than outright strength and a big part of reliability is how well the lock is designed and executed by the manufacturer. I have knives with backlocks, liner locks, compression locks, and RILs (framelocks) that I use with equal confidence because they're well made.
 
IMO there's no point having a lock that can withstand 500pounds or force or something like that unless you're using the spine to chop........
 
IMO there's no point having a lock that can withstand 500pounds or force or something like that unless you're using the spine to chop........

I strongly disagree. If my knife is going to fail I don't want it to be at the lock. Strictly in my opinion, a lock failure is most likely to lead to a debilitating injury, where a blade break or pivot failure wouldn't cause the blade to sever a part of my body.

If the lock is the strongest link in the chain of possible failure points then that is a good thing. Apparently a lot of buyers feel that way also hence all the craziness about strong and reliable lock designs.
 
I strongly disagree. If my knife is going to fail I don't want it to be at the lock. Strictly in my opinion, a lock failure is most likely to lead to a debilitating injury, where a blade break or pivot failure wouldn't cause the blade to sever a part of my body.

If the lock is the strongest link in the chain of possible failure points then that is a good thing. Apparently a lot of buyers feel that way also hence all the craziness about strong and reliable lock designs.

I agree with that.

Throw in reliability of operation and relative robustness.
 
Thats an easy one...Framelock
But the only ones I have experiance with are Sebenzas.
 
^ he is specificly asking about a folder, NOT a fixed blade, we all know they are tougher.

^
There have been a number of threads debating what is the best kind of lock for a folder: axis, compression, framelock, etc.
 
Quality + type: they're both important.

That said, I think the strongest lock is the Tri-Ad lock which is used on the American Lawman and the Espadas.
 
I strongly disagree. If my knife is going to fail I don't want it to be at the lock. Strictly in my opinion, a lock failure is most likely to lead to a debilitating injury, where a blade break or pivot failure wouldn't cause the blade to sever a part of my body.

If the lock is the strongest link in the chain of possible failure points then that is a good thing. Apparently a lot of buyers feel that way also hence all the craziness about strong and reliable lock designs.
Why would the lock fail if the pressure is going up into on edge, what would break during that situation is most likely the stop pin, or lockback if it uses the lockback. I often use slipjoints along with locking knives but I haven't found a situation where I have needed to put 100pounds of pressure on the spine.....
 
Back
Top