Best Method to Sharpen you Knife ?

[rpttrsn]

I have been sharpening for more years then I care to remember. I still have allot to learn, but not enough time to do so. I started out with oil stones and what I thought was a upgrade and went to Spyderco with only one 40 degree angle in the base. As time went on I have gone to Lansky system, Newer Sharpmaker 40*/30* and UF ceramic, DMT, Japanese water stones, Edge Pro, Kalamazoo 1x42 belt grinder, 8"paper wheels, Work Sharp etc. More money spent then I want to think about. I really enjoy doing this so I am not the least bit sorry.
The other day I wanted to refine the factory edge on my Spyderco Brad Southard Flipper. I started with Japanese water stones in the following order. Chosera 600, King 1000, Naniwa Aotoshi 2K, Arashiyama 6000. (used a Nagura Stone for a slurry). Then a strop with chromium oxide. Not very please with result. Could be due to experience. I then proceeded to pull out my Edge Pro system. Went through all the grits using a electronic angle guide. Strop with 0.50 and then 0.25 diamond paste. Never pleased with my results using this system. Heel of the blade and the tip have a problem with the angle staying uniform in looks . From here I went to my Kalamazoo belt grinder with X weight belts between a small opening in the plenum. Used the following progression. 240,320, trizack, 20 micron, 9 micron, leather belt with white compound and finished on a naked kangaroo strop. This produced the best edge for me in much less time then any of the other methods. Took about 5-8 minutes total. I must note that I have used belt grinders for about 40 years off and on in my work.

I am sure others here have tried multiple methods also. What have you used and which has worked out the best for you?

 

[OHALLUM]

I started out with an old "whet rock" about 60 years ago that belonged to my grandfather. I still have that stone today, and it looks like a canoe from wear over the years. Last year, I renewed my interest in knives in general, and bought a Work Sharp and was very satisfied with the results I was getting out of it. I even re-ground some knives from serrated to straight edge with it. Then I got interested in this forum, since I am retired and have a lot of spare time (between "Honey Do's"). I ran across the long thread of Richard J about the paper wheels. Intrigued, I bought a set of the 8 inch wheels, and proceeded to practice on them until I was pretty proficient and was turning out some good results. I now sharpen for friends and relatives, and a few paying customers. I can get a knife scary sharp in about 3 to 5 minutes if I take my time. The edges are not mirror finished, but are very polished when I am done with them. The only complaint I get is that they are too sharp for some of my customers that are not used to sharp knives. I am by no means an expert knife sharpener, but I can turn out a good sharp product that will remain sharp as long as the steel in the blade is designed to stand up under normal use.

The best part of my "system" is that I have less than $100 invested in it, and do not desire or need anything else for the knives I sharpen. If I had a lot of disposable income, I might have some of the "Guided edge systems" to experiment with. But then "If wishes were horses, then beggars could ride". Bottom line is that each of us have to decide what works for us, and how much money we are willing to invest in getting our knives sharp enough to push cut phone book paper, cut a chunk of meat, chop veggies, cut open cardboard boxes, open envelopes, baton wood, or just bragging rights, etc. YMOCMV!

Blessings,

Omar

 

[sintro]

Two years ago I started out with a Smith Tri Hone. It had an alox stone and two arkansas stones; one transculent and one hard. It was a slow system, but I got good results off it. Next I bought some black rouge off amazon to continue making my edges better. Next I went for a belt sander from harbor freight with a big variety of belts. Although it turned out I only needed 80 grit, 220, 400, and 600 grit trizacts in addition to a linen belt loaded with black or green rouge. But for a more polished edge, a 1000 grit and 3000 grit belt helps. I fell in love with the belt sander! A knife can come in butter knife dull with a piece of the tip missing, and it's razor sharp in 10 minutes.

 

[Jason B.]

I started with Arkansas stones when I was about 8 or 9 and used them for many years before the addiction really kicked in. I tried spyderco ceramics, waterstones, belt grinders, diamond hones, and a few guided systems along the way. I also went strop crazy for a bit with different compounds and strop materials but over time found a bare strop of high quality to have the greatest positive effect on the edge. I currently use Nubatama waterstones for most of my sharpening and diamonds for wear resistant PM steels. If needed I then strop on a old barber strop to refine but not disturb the characteristics of the edge created on the stone.
I do a lot more kitchen cutlery these days which has led me more and more to waterstones which I don't mind cause they are very enjoyable to use, especially the natural ones.