Best Oil for Custom Folders? Can the wrong oil damage your blade/finish?

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I love my Microtech Mini Matrix so much and don't want to hurt it. I read on the Microtech site that you can use REM oil, and read somewhere else that Remington makes something called Dri-Lube that is great for folders. Are these my best choices?

Also, my blade has a black ceramic coating (see pic please), is it a good idea for me to oil my blade? can it damage the black ceramic coating? I read somewhere that this should never be done, but have also heard the opposite with people saying yes do it. If the blade can be oiled, should I use the REM or Dri-Lube? Is there a better protectant available? Any insight is appreciated. Should I wax the blade instead of oiling it? Thank you for your valued input.

 
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I use BreakFree CLP on guns, knives, just about any metal object subject to lubrication and corrosion. It is reasonably priced and available at almost any sporting goods store, gun shop, online, etc. Remember if it works great on guns it will be just as good for lubrication and in preventing knife corrosion. BreakFree CLP is a synthetic oil so it will never gum up or get sticky like regular oil does after time.

If you will use the knife in cooking, I would wash the blade down first and when finished reapply a light coating of lube. If storing you knife for a long time I would recommend wiping it down with the CLP and putting it in a ZipLock Freezer Bag. It will last for years with no corrosion if kept in a cool dry place.

http://www.guncleaningtips.com/the-best-gun-clps-corrosion-and-lubrication-tests/
 
Whale Spit.....was designed for salt water fishing reels....great oil. NOT inexpensive.
 
You are overthinking it. Rem oil or pretty much any light lubricating oil will work just fine and won't hurt your knife.
 
I don't claim to be any expert on oils, but I have certainly tried a bunch of them. And, since someone mentioned Breakfree CLP, which I've used on guns since 1983 when I was in the Marines, I have to say that I despise the smell of CLP (and Ballistol is even worse). Of all the oils I've tried, G96 Gun Treatment is the only one that I actually like the smell of. For whatever the heck that information is worth... :rolleyes:
 
My go-to knife lube/protectant has been Tuf-Glide by Sentry Solutions. You apply it wet, wait for the solvents to evaporate, then buff it out. Leaves behind a dry film that doesn't attract dust or get gummy. Once dry, it's supposed to be food-safe.

As a lubricant, grease is probably better. But to grease the bearings, you'd need to take the knife apart...which is a warranty-voiding endeavor in the world of Microtech.

I'm sure BreakFree CLP, Rem Oil, or any fishing reel lube would be just as good.
 
fsatsil said:
You are overthinking it. Rem oil or pretty much any light lubricating oil will work just fine and won't hurt your knife.
Click to expand...


Don't confuse a CLP product that Cleans, Lubricates, and Protects against corrosion with a light lubricating oil (Rem Oil is a CLP product based on BreakFree CLP). They are not the same. Ask any member that served in Vietnam and used M-16's, etc.

If you don't care about the cleaning and corrosion protection just give the knife a squirt of what you have around and hope it does the job. Whale spit, porpoise poop, etc. whatever floats your boat! For me I'll stick with BreakFree CLP what I know works great on my guns and knives, and many other tools.
 
I would advise against using much of any oil until absolutely necessary as it'll attract/retain dust and grit plus it can allow the blade to fire so hard it won't lock, it'll bounce back....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi, use Inox MX3 or MX5 Plus

The only lubricant in the world with the special MX3 anti-corrosion, anti-moisture formula for the twenty – first century.

Why MX3 ?

Displaces, penetrates, lubricates and protects.
INOX-mx3 contains no silicon, acid, kerosene or dieselene.
INOX-mx3 will not harm metal points or surfaces, plastics, paints, enamels, fibreglass, formica or neoprene seals
INOX-mx3 doesn’t dry out, gum up, become gooey or sticky or wash off with water.
INOX-mx3 is non-conductive, non-static, non-toxic, non-corrosive and non-staining.

Australian, USA and New Zealand food Grade Approved

http://www.inoxmx.com/inox/mx-3-lubricant/

Extreme pressure lubrication, superior penetration, quality anti-corrosion protection with PTFE
Why MX5?

INOX MX5 Plus has been designed for applications where a superior extreme pressure, anti-corrosion, anti-moisture liquid lubricant, a high grade penetrating oil or an industrial quality machine cutting lubricant is required (Safe to use in saw, lathe & milling reservoirs).
INOX MX5 Plus will not harm metal points or surfaces, fibreglass, formica, painted or enamel finishes, plastics or neoprene seals.
INOX MX5 Plus will not become tacky, alter surface tolerances, dry out or wash off with water
INOX MX5 Plus is non-toxic, non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-staining.
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) is premium grade extreme pressure anti-friction medium which gives increased lubrication between the contact surfaces. This reduced friction environment also lowers operating temperatures and extends life.

Australian, USA and New Zealand food Grade Approved

http://www.inoxmx.com/inox/mx5-plus-ptfe-lubricant/
 
Emre said:
My go-to knife lube/protectant has been Tuf-Glide by Sentry Solutions. You apply it wet, wait for the solvents to evaporate, then buff it out. Leaves behind a dry film that doesn't attract dust or get gummy. Once dry, it's supposed to be food-safe.

As a lubricant, grease is probably better. But to grease the bearings, you'd need to take the knife apart...which is a warranty-voiding endeavor in the world of Microtech.

I'm sure BreakFree CLP, Rem Oil, or any fishing reel lube would be just as good.
Click to expand...

Ditto!
 
I just started purchasing knives after a number of years hiatus. I have been trying to figure out the same thing. I don't think taking a knife apart that is new makes any sense. However, can one use the same lubricant on the pivot as on a framelock. I used to use BreakFree when I was a Class 3 dealer and used it on my firearms, especially all of my automatic weapons. I don't like the idea of mineral oil or any other oil because it is oily! Something dry makes more sense to me. I am thinking of using one of the Sentry products. As far as Nano oil is concerned, my background is in science and I think it is snake oil. Nano what? I have not been able to find a single true description as to what the stuff is. There is no research. There are subjective reviews which from an scientific study are meaningless. Personally, I think it is just some kind of lightweight oil. I have searched the Forums and there certainly does not seem to be a consensus. Everyone has different opinions. I guess it is trial and error and what works for a particular person. Knives are very different from firearms in terms of their mechanics. I suppose the choice also has to do with how a knife is to be used and in what environment.
 
Personally I like to clean my knives with the Benchmade Blu-Lube cleaner. Then I oil my pivots with the BluLube lubricant.

However if you mean oil that you would use to protectna carbon blade from rusting nothing is better than Renaissance Wax. That stuff is made by cold pressing angels.
 
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