Best orientation of wood to make handle, esp. on longer handles e.g. axes

[St33L]

To start off, I understand that grain direction parallel to the spine makes sense to help reduce handles breaking, and that this endeavor is more-or-less overkill. And, handles breaking are relatively rare, while there are other, non-wood scale alternatives like G-10, CF, micarta, etc.

I've heard that in home building with tall ceilings and windows constructed of a single piece of wood, it's better to construct the window in the same growth direction of the tree, so as to avoid warping of the wooden window (or other furniture / construction) over time.

Now, I'm not suggesting axe or blade wooden scales/handles will warp over time like furniture... But, if one were to get really granular with the craftsmanship-side or the "thought" of the "natural" way that goes into making the handles (again, regardless of any negligible benefit), would it be "better" to make a handle on, say, an axe or spear in the direction of tree growth? So, the relatively more dense side of the tree is closer to the base or roots of the tree - would that mean that the end closest to the trunk of the tree should be on the axe head side or closer to the pommel? I'd think the relatively dense side would be near the axe head, so you'd be holding the tree upside down... or perhaps it depends more on how the axe is stored (e.g. if axe head hangs on wall, then denser side is down; whereas, if the axe head rests on the floor with the handle vertically oriented, then the denser side is closer to the axe head).

Anyway, if one were to really get anal about this... what orientation would make more sense? And, yes, I anticipate the "it really doesn't matter" response... I'm trying to get at the "soul" or art of the blade handle. Thanks in advance.

 

[Skimo]

Best to grow a perfect handle, no cuts or breaks in the grain. If it were possible.

 

[Rhinoknives1]

Many walking sticks/Warclubs have the root ball at the top, being the densest part. I make full tang knives so I don't think it would make ant difference, Stick tang possibly? when it comes to an Aze or Axe? Hummm? Have to think on that one.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

In stick tangs I'd expect the best way to go about it would be to make the handle from a branch, so that the grain was concentric to the tang.

 

[rjdankert]

. . .
I've heard that in home building with tall ceilings and windows constructed of a single piece of wood, it's better to construct the window in the same growth direction of the tree, so as to avoid warping of the wooden window (or other furniture / construction) over time.
. . .

I assume you are talking about the stiles of a window frame. I've never come across anything about vertical orientation and warping. I'm always interested in learning about wood. Could you point to where I could find out more about this? Thanks,

Bob

 

[Steve Tall]

... would it be "better" to make a handle on, say, an axe or spear in the direction of tree growth? So, the relatively more dense side of the tree is closer to the base or roots of the tree - would that mean that the end closest to the trunk of the tree should be on the axe head side or closer to the pommel? I'd think the relatively dense side would be near the axe head, so you'd be holding the tree upside down...

I was curious about how the density of wood varies, depending on whether it's higher or lower in the tree. The reference book I found makes it clear that you can't just assume that the more dense part of a piece of wood is the side that was closer to the base/roots of the tree. For one thing, it depends on the type of tree.

For example, pine wood seems to generally decrease in density as you go higher in the tree. For the hickories (genus: Carya), it can be radically different. The example listed was pecan (Carya illinoensis): "Specific gravity [analogous to density] is less at breast height than at 10 feet." So for this hickory, the density increases as you go up the tree from 5 to 10 feet high (no data was given for above 10 feet.) For hemlocks, the density generally decreased from the ground to mid-height, then increased to the top.

So it seems there is no rule of thumb about which end of the billet would be denser. I would presume that any performance difference due to the density change for a 3 foot length (axe handle) would be negligible, anyway. There might be more density difference due to whether the billet wood was closer to the bark or the pith of the tree. Density seems to be generally higher near the bark than near the center (pith). For the pecan example, "Specific gravity [analogous to density] increases from pith to bark at all heights of the tree."

from Juvenile Wood in Forest Trees, by Bruce J. Zobel and Jerry R. Sprague, 2012

 

[St33L]

I assume you are talking about the stiles of a window frame. I've never come across anything about vertical orientation and warping. I'm always interested in learning about wood. Could you point to where I could find out more about this? Thanks,

Bob

Sure, it was in this documentary, around the 17:00 mark. The window is actually a screen/door, and it looks to be multiple pieces and not a single piece, but the concept should still apply, I'd think.

[video=youtube;rMtSc2MJLcw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMtSc2MJLcw[/video]

 

[rjdankert]

Sure, it was in this documentary, . . .

Thanks for posting that. It was a very enjoyable documentary. I'd love to visit his shop. He has some great stuff and I like that he processes his own wood. I'm also a big fan of live edge furniture.

To get back on topic I can only say good luck on your quest.

Bob

 

[Chignecto Woodsman]

I was curious about how the density of wood varies, depending on whether it's higher or lower in the tree. The reference book I found makes it clear that you can't just assume that the more dense part of a piece of wood is the side that was closer to the base/roots of the tree. For one thing, it depends on the type of tree.

For example, pine wood seems to generally decrease in density as you go higher in the tree. For the hickories (genus: Carya), it can be radically different. The example listed was pecan (Carya illinoensis): "Specific gravity [analogous to density] is less at breast height than at 10 feet." So for this hickory, the density increases as you go up the tree from 5 to 10 feet high (no data was given for above 10 feet.) For hemlocks, the density generally decreased from the ground to mid-height, then increased to the top.

So it seems there is no rule of thumb about which end of the billet would be denser. I would presume that any performance difference due to the density change for a 3 foot length (axe handle) would be negligible, anyway. There might be more density difference due to whether the billet wood was closer to the bark or the pith of the tree. Density seems to be generally higher near the bark than near the center (pith). For the pecan example, "Specific gravity [analogous to density] increases from pith to bark at all heights of the tree."

from Juvenile Wood in Forest Trees, by Bruce J. Zobel and Jerry R. Sprague, 2012

Yep, big difference between tree types, and even area of growth; soil and shade/shade tolerance etc.

I think you'd want to go bottom down to top, as this should give you slightly less grain runout. But unlikely there'd be much difference for such short lengths.

Opposite for spears, top as the tip.

 

[Justintheelkhunter]

When making a long axe handle from Osage is it best to split the wood down to the appropriate size like you would a bow stave??? I'm making a 30" handle with the grain running parallel with the axe. I have a large rough cut 2"x8"x36" with good grain, but the problem lies in that will the side grain split out when using the axe. I know from making bows that I need one growth ring, but now it's on its side and is a side bend instead of a back bend. Can I just cut out a 2x4 on the table saw or do I need to spit it so that the grain is the same, not to be confused with the the growth ring.

 

[300Six]

This topic has been near beat to death over the past 6 months. Search feature of 'how to choose an axe handle' comes to mind. Circular grain is suited for round eye axes and virtually any orientation (horizontal or vertical) is serviceable for straight handled goods. It's lengthwise 'grain run-out' you deliberately want to avoid at all costs. And if it's curved hafts you're seeking to craft then make sure the grain is parallel with the axe blade, otherwise manufactured 'grain run out' will be inherent to the end product.