-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Best overall axe.
- Thread starter zmaj
- Start date
the-accumulator
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2008
- Messages
- 904
Why only one axe? Do you have a weight limitation, because you have to pack it in? Or a $ limit? Or your better half has threatened you? Any one axe that will do all those things probably won't do many or any of them especially well. perhaps a double-bit for felling and limbing, a maul for splitting, and a hewing hatchet for the joints on your log cabin... Just a thought. T-A
Square_peg
Gold Member
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2012
- Messages
- 13,793
Read this thread.
www.bladeforums.com
If only one axe (or only two, or only three axes)
As written by Peter Vido: This is meant to inspire a dialogue among somewhat seasoned ax users. Naturally, no matter what I might suggest, there will be folks out there disagreeing. I have, in principle, no difficulty with diversity of opinions as long as they are based on actual experience...
www.bladeforums.com
Thank you.Read this thread.
If only one axe (or only two, or only three axes)
As written by Peter Vido: This is meant to inspire a dialogue among somewhat seasoned ax users. Naturally, no matter what I might suggest, there will be folks out there disagreeing. I have, in principle, no difficulty with diversity of opinions as long as they are based on actual experience...
I want to be able to just grab that one axe and know it's all I need for whatever I'm doing.
Square_peg
Gold Member
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2012
- Messages
- 13,793
Do you have a budget?
A good overall axe for the price is this.
Idk if this counts as a budget but anything under a few hundred dollars is preferred but even then I suppose I could justify it if it is a lifelong investment.Do you have a budget?
A good overall axe for the price is this.
The council tool seems nice but I have the 36 inch dayton pattern one and I'm having some issues which may not be issues at all with it. Mainly that it doesn't seem to cut deep and I'm having problems splitting some blocks. Might be that the blocks are just too big and the I'm bad at both things.
Last edited:
scdub
Basic Member
- Joined
- May 29, 2004
- Messages
- 2,945
This is my “Velvicut Bad Axe” from Council Tool as it arrived. 2.25# 5160 head, tempered slightly harder than the standard line. Cost ~$200.
I’m a novice user but have chopped quite a bit over the last several years, and this is my favorite by far.
Big caveat - I’m not splitting with it - really just chopping. I’d definitely want something heavier as a “1 axe” if I were heating my home with wood. For chopping versatility and efficiency though, I like this size.
I found it after much research on this subforum. 3 main reasons:
1) 5160 is my favorite steel
2) The Velvicut premium handles are generally known to be straight and with little/no runout, and thinner than most handles on the US market.
3) Geometry - this is one of very few heads that still has slightly convex cheeks. This is perceptible in the following photos. Using a file to reprofile the edge (after some test-chopping - not bad as delivered) exposes a crescent-shaped bevel. This is because the center of the crescent is thicker/higher than the heel and toe.
I added an adjustable strap, some weatherproofing and an additional snap to the sheath, thinned the handle a bit more, added some tung oil, and now it’s my go-to.
I’m a novice user but have chopped quite a bit over the last several years, and this is my favorite by far.
Big caveat - I’m not splitting with it - really just chopping. I’d definitely want something heavier as a “1 axe” if I were heating my home with wood. For chopping versatility and efficiency though, I like this size.
I found it after much research on this subforum. 3 main reasons:
1) 5160 is my favorite steel
2) The Velvicut premium handles are generally known to be straight and with little/no runout, and thinner than most handles on the US market.
3) Geometry - this is one of very few heads that still has slightly convex cheeks. This is perceptible in the following photos. Using a file to reprofile the edge (after some test-chopping - not bad as delivered) exposes a crescent-shaped bevel. This is because the center of the crescent is thicker/higher than the heel and toe.
I added an adjustable strap, some weatherproofing and an additional snap to the sheath, thinned the handle a bit more, added some tung oil, and now it’s my go-to.
Last edited:
the-accumulator
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2008
- Messages
- 904
Being 68yrs old with a history of shoulder issues, my splitting is done with a noisy gas-guzzler. I've been reminded, as I have been splitting firewood recently, that the straight-grained walnut splits so easily, I could have easily split it with a maul. The elm, on the other hand, doesn't split at all; it just shreds! Even my splitter struggles with it! In your case, might your problems be related to the type of wood you're working with? T-A
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2008
- Messages
- 25,895
"Best" really depends on your context of use but it sounds like you might enjoy the WOOX 28" handled Forte I designed. Hardened poll, slip fit handle that allows for easy handle swapping, and a true convergent bevels that don't ever become thinner when sharpening back into them. The design in profile draws inspiration from Italian woodworker's axes so is able to do decent double-duty in construction tasks. It can be wedge-fit if desired, and a standard 36" pick handle can be rasped down to fit for a longer slip fit handle OR modified for use as a wedged handle.
Wood really is interesting ain't it. It's cool how one piece varies so much to another.
I really hope that the wood I'm splitting is the issue. It's such a pain to split these small blocks and takes so much effort it's ridiculous. Some split much easier and others are nightmares. I want to get my hands on some rounds and see how she works on them.
That axe and sheath are beautiful. What kind of wood are you typically chopping? Do you think that axe could work for splitting ~8 inch axe cut logs?
scdub
Basic Member
- Joined
- May 29, 2004
- Messages
- 2,945
Thanks - the head is pretty symmetrical and well hung, and the handle is extremely straight with nice grain.
I mostly find redwood, oak, fir and Madrone where I am.
I’m sure it could handle splitting 8” logs, (wood dependent) but I recon a heavier axe would do better. I wouldn’t go less than a 28” handle.
This axe is primarily used for clearing on single-track hiking trails, so I went with one as light as possible while still being an efficient chopper.
If you plan to drive in to wherever your work is, or it’s mostly backyard work, and splitting is a regular part of the work, I’d personally go with something a little larger. Unfortunately the longer-handled Council Velvicut/“premium” line jumps from my 2.25# up to a 5# felling axe, although they do have some mid-weight, less-expensive Jersey patterns.
(I’d look at that Woox Forte mentioned above for a slightly heavier “all-arounder”. You could potentially refinish it to make it more rustic looking without too much work if that’s the style you prefer.)
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2021
- Messages
- 1,101
I went down the same mental path early last year after seeing my neighbor try to process a 4” fallen tree with a chef’s knife. I loaned him a little homeowner’s saw and some orchard loppers but figured I’d better get a “what if” axe.
My first was a little 20” Hultafors. I thought it would be a great all-purpose axe that I could keep in the trunk of my car. Then I got carried away. I’ve refurbished and hung fifty old Swedish, German, and American axe heads since last year.
I still think I prefer the Swedish axes, just ergonomically speaking. No one axe will “do it all” very well, like everyone said already. It’s really worth learning to sharpen whatever you end up with though, since even most new axes come rough and dull.
Full disclosure: I haven’t actually used axes since leaving the farm about twenty years ago. My grandfather’s axes were worn and dull and I was an extra dumb kid who didn’t think about it. I did used to process and bring in all their firewood every fall though. Mostly pine. I’ve spent the last twenty years in machining/welding/fabrication so I approach everything with an “everything’s got to look worse before it looks better” attitude.
My first was a little 20” Hultafors. I thought it would be a great all-purpose axe that I could keep in the trunk of my car. Then I got carried away. I’ve refurbished and hung fifty old Swedish, German, and American axe heads since last year.
I still think I prefer the Swedish axes, just ergonomically speaking. No one axe will “do it all” very well, like everyone said already. It’s really worth learning to sharpen whatever you end up with though, since even most new axes come rough and dull.
Full disclosure: I haven’t actually used axes since leaving the farm about twenty years ago. My grandfather’s axes were worn and dull and I was an extra dumb kid who didn’t think about it. I did used to process and bring in all their firewood every fall though. Mostly pine. I’ve spent the last twenty years in machining/welding/fabrication so I approach everything with an “everything’s got to look worse before it looks better” attitude.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2021
- Messages
- 1,101
Thank you! They’re just cheap hickory hardware store handles. No stain. I thin them all down and rework them a little, sanding and burning as I go. I finish with BLO and wax.NWFRS,
what type of wood are those handles or is the color from a stain? Beautiful work.
Those four Swedish axes remain the only ones I haven’t re-hung of the fifty. I bought those two Hultafors new, (2lb on a 20” handle and 3.5lb on a 28” handle) intending to keep them for myself. Mostly I buy the worst I can find though, since I learn by repetition, and I really do enjoy the process.
Last edited:
Square_peg
Gold Member
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2012
- Messages
- 13,793
A 36" axe is a compromise. The long handle will give it more power for splitting but make it more cumbersome for chopping all but the biggest trees.
Your bit profile is likely too fat for efficient chopping. I would file it as @
scdub
has shown, then hone it to remove the file marks.It sounds like you need two axes, one for chopping and another for splitting. What kind of wood are you splitting? Some woods like elm, London plane and black cottonwood have a coarse intertwined grain that makes them very difficult to split. Large rounds will need to be started with a sledge and wedges and then can be finished with a sharp 5-pound axe.
What are you chopping? Light chopping and limbing is best done with a boys axe. For heavier chopping I like a 3 to 3-1/2 pound axe on a 30"-34" handle. 32" is the sweet spot for me.
The more specific you are with the tasks you have the better we can suggest the appropriate axes.
Square_peg
Gold Member
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2012
- Messages
- 13,793
If push comes to shove and you absolutely had to split wood with just a boys axe then you have to either keep it small or carve a few wooden gluts to use as wedges.
Another recent thread discusses best folding saws to go with your axe. A small folding saw is a great way to make a pair of gluts very quickly. Start by finding a hardwood tree with a branch of suitable size for the gluts. Cut off the end of the branch 2 feet from the trunk, leaving those 2 feet still attached. Next, on a vertical plane, make a long diagonal cut to remove the first glut from the branch. Then cut off a 2nd glut utilizing the previous diagonal cut and a new square cut beyond the diagonal.
