BEST overall survival/utility design?

W

Wildwestmilford

Joined
Apr 7, 2007
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13
I am looking to put together the best of all worlds knife. It's going to be a big fixed blade that I want to be able to use and abuse. I do a lot of hunting and want to be able to count on it to chop, camp chores, and for protection if necessary. The guy building it for me has saw and file steel.
So what would features would you absolutely have to have?
 
full tang, micarta scales, drop point, partial serrations, single edge, 5-7 inch blade, single guard,
 
The word 'best' is interesting, yet one person may consider his knife choice the best while another has a vastly differing opinion. There may be many best choices. In the selection process of a larger knife, I'd go with a Basic 9 or a Camp Tramp. The newly tested DF also puts a smile on my visage. I suggest you attempt to order the beast and be done with it, or get yourself one of the older style trailmasters if you can't handle the massive delay you are likely to encounter with the bladesmiths of Spring, Texas.
 
There is no 'best' knife for anything. From the title of the post, the overall best survival/utility knife is the one you have strapped to your belt or clipped/in your pocket when you really need to rely on it to survive. A large camp knife might be a wonderful choice but you may not want to lug around 7' + of steel all day or all the time or on every hike. 4-ish inches of blade length i feel is a very good choice for overall utility and ease of carry as well as for defense means (however, a pistol should make a handy peacemaker if you can legally pack one.)

Go for a short KaBar though. Good price, good steel, good overall length.
 
No, I DO want to lug around a big knife, we have lots and lots of 600+ pound black bears that have no problem getting within 10 yards of you and not spooking. We can't legally carry anything here, no guns, nothing.
 
Check out Mission MPK-S - I think it is the best knife of this type around in terms of design.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
If having a custom fixed blade knife made, here's what I'd ask for: Drop point blade. 10-12" overall with a 5" handle. Flat or convex grind. Natural handle materials, probably wood. Full tang. Guard.

You didn't say what kind of hunting you do, but for small game I'd want something like the AG Russell Woodswalker. I've never been big-game hunting, but would probably look for something like the Bark River Classic Light Hunter.

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I wanted to comment on this also:
No, I DO want to lug around a big knife, we have lots and lots of 600+ pound black bears that have no problem getting within 10 yards of you and not spooking. We can't legally carry anything here, no guns, nothing.
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Where do you live? Are they North American Black Bears like we have in New Mexico and Colorado? If so they are mostly harmless and can easily be scared off with loud noises. In the entire written history of New Mexico, exactly one person has been killed by a black bear.

I'm not saying you don't need to take precautions, you do. But having to fight off a black bear with a knife, and being successful at it, is so incredibly unlikely, it's comic book material.

Can you carry bear spray legally? Someone down in the Wilderness Survival section just asked about those types of products. I've never used anything like that, but it doesn't sound unreasonable as a precaution.

Best Wishes,
-Bob
 
I'm a little confused because you said that you do a lot of hunting, yet a few post down you are talking about using the knife as protection against black bears. Generally if you are hunting you would be using a gun, bow or crossbow, all of which would give you better chances of survival in the unlikely event of a bear attack then any knife would. I would get a knife that is suitable for what you will need it for, cleaning game, setting up camp, etc. rather then something for protection, there are better things for protection then a knife. Anyway I would suggest full tang with a hard handle material of some sort, about 5-6" in length and with a fairly thick blade.
 
Im kinda surprized no ones metioned a Becker BK7 should you be able to find one. Also Cold steels Recon Scout, or an RD7 From Justin at ranger knives. Give a look at busse and swamprat aswell.
 
Bob W said:
I'm not saying you don't need to take precautions, you do. But having to fight off a black bear with a knife, and being successful at it, is so incredibly unlikely, it's comic book material.
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Though it wouldn't, and shouldn't be anyones first choice of defending youself, it has been a recored occurnace to fend off a bear, or wild animal with a knife. Of course, bear spray I would say would be used befor a knife, and I can see why it would give some peace of mind, but its not fair to say its "comic book material"

Incredibly unlikely, and almost usless, but not totaly. Nor would it be fair to say its not fesible way to defend yourself.
 
Black Bear attacks do happen.
There was one(well reported and documneted) about 100 miles north of me a few years ago. Dude fought back and killed the bear with his 4 in. blade folder. It was taked about on this board.
 
OH MAN don't even give me the "Black Bears don't kill" line till you've had one stalk you. No, most of the time they will just chase you off your kill (happened to my closest hunting buddy on 2 deer last year), or give you a decent mauling.
To answer some of the other questions- I'm in NJ. I hunt with a stickbow (recurves and longbows) and I carry pepper spray, both of which I'd attempt before going hand to hand with a quarter ton of teeth and claw.
What I think you might not realize is that 75% of the time both the bear and hunter don't see each other until you are literally nose to nose. They are extremely quiet and for some reason just don't stand out the way you think they would. We have very thick forest here and they are merely shadows. The hunter sits quietly camouflaged. Sitting under a tree I've had bears within 10 yards before we saw each other on at least a dozen occasions.

Finally, I have no illusions that a 12" knife is to be used for my hunting tasks, that's what my small drop point is for (not sure if I'm linking image correctly but try and take a look, it's a beauty)
knife.jpg
or my spyderco rookie. The big one is meant stabbing, breaking pelvic bones when field dressing, hacking a small sapling or branch. My Kabar isn't heavy enough for most of that stuff (though it does go through a pelvis with 2 whacks).
 
Randall model 14.

One of the older model Puma White Hunters or older Puma Bowie.
 
Sitting under a tree I've had bears within 10 yards before we saw each other on at least a dozen occasions.
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Very cool, and a good way to see wildlife up close even when not hunting. Me, I've been pissed on by a black bear... :D

One time I woke up and something was pulling on the toe end of my sleeping bag. I thought it could be a bear and had a moment of anxiety. Until I sat up and was nose-to-nose with a very startled cow. :D

We have bears in our yard all through the summer, especially in the Fall when there's fruit on the neighbor's tree. The bears eat until they're totally stuffed, then fall asleep. Snoring bears crashed all over the front lawn... Sometimes they climb trees for their naps and forget to go home before the sun comes up. The things are stuck up in trees all over town during the day, afraid to climb down until it gets dark again.

-Bob
 
Being that there's no 'best' design for all task
since optimizing for one task can sometimes mean hurting
a knifes performance in another.

In my opinion an overall design that I would want (or that
I already have).....

1) Full Tang
2) High Flat Ground
3) Drop Point
4) Carbon Steel, something a bit better then 1095... like 52100,
INFI, etc.
5) A 15 degree edge.
6) Handle... as long as it's strong and comfortable.
7) 5-7"
8) Fixed blade

Given that, I'd be happy with a BM 710, an SAK, or my Leek.
Better to have something then nothing and I'm more likely
to carry those then a fixed blade. (unless of course I'm out and about
in the wilderness).
 
I would suggest a blade length 7 or 8 inches, handle length 5", full tang. Drop point or better then that a spearpoint. Micarta scales for the ultimate in durability. 3/16" thick by 1 1/2" or 1 3/4" wide blade. Deep first finger cut out. I prefer no guard, they add weight. 3/4" choil to choke up on the blade for finer work. An 8" blade will work field dressing. I used one this past fall on two deer without any problems. Flat or convex grind. IMO, hollow grinds work best on smaller knives.
Scott
 
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