Best Price and Service where? / BM 730 or RECAT Pocket Hobbit?

Joined
May 22, 2000
Messages
185
Hi,

I am new to this group so please bear with me...

I am considering purchasing a folder that will be mainly for self defense. Need to replace a BM CQC-7 that was lost. I liked the look of the new BM 730SBT and I was also considering a RECAT Pocket Hobbit... I know these knives are VERY different but I would be greatful for any comments on the quality and design of these folders...

Also, Where might I get the best price and service when I buy the knife? Who would YOU buy from?

Thanks,

Ben
 
I just received my BM 730 this week, and I am happy in all respects.Materials, fit and finish are all absolutely flawless.The design is perfect for my use,though that is very subjective.The Pocket Hobbit looks interesting, but I don't own one. If you decide on the BenchMade, go to Bayou Lafourche or One Stop Knife Stop(code three prices) for the best prices.Let us know what you decide!

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AKTI Member #A000934
"Always just one knife short of perfection!"
 
Hey Guys...

I also own a 730 plain blade,, and it is a Great little knife,, fit and finnish are excellent...

Although the Pocket Hobbit is a well made and kind cool looking knife, it is a specialty fighter, and one must learn how to use it properly to be effective with it...

For all around regular everyday pocket knife the 730 is your best bet.

The PH might be a little scary to some people if you whip it out to clean your nails..
smile.gif


ttyle Eric....

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Eric E. Noeldechen
On/Scene Tactical
http://www.mnsi.net/~nbtnoel
Custom made, High Quality
Concealex Sheaths and Tool Holsters
Canada's Only Custom Concealex Shop!

 
I have never handled a RECAT but I can tell you that the axis lock is great. At 3.6" the 730 won't catch TOO many people's attention when you whip it out
smile.gif
 
the BM730sbt is a very good looking knife. the axis lock is very solid and for a tactical knife it doesn't have the mean look that a lot of the other knives have. I think you would be very happy with the Benchmade.

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QUALITY ABOVE QUANTITY
www.2thehilt.com
 
BM730. I agree with Mr. Mitin that the PH is pretty much just for show, unless you really are trained in how to use that knife. And I'd still take the 730, because the handle shape allows much quicker transitions between various grips, and it opens faster than any non-auto knife I'm aware of (except maybe another large Axis lock, that is). Plus, as a defensive knife, it should be as failure-proof as possible, and the Rolling Lock just isn't as strong (failure due to large forces) or as reliable (failure due to wear) as the Axis lock.

One thing, though: for self-defense, go with the plain 730, not the 730SBT. For one, the BT2 is both ugly after light use, and makes the knife less discrete, and discretion wins more fights than offense and defense combined. Also, the combo-edge is a 'worst or both worlds' scenario. Do yourself a favor and get a plain-edge, unless you plan on cutting a lot of bread with your self-defense knife.

--JB

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e_utopia@hotmail.com
 
Well,

Chime on in here...
Should I get the 730 with the plain blade, the plain serrated blade, or the SBT blade?

Thanks guys!

Ben
 
Ben, please don't get me wrong but different fellows sometimes consider a very different sense into words "self defense". For one it is a brawl at a discotheque when a knife can be a deciding argument proving one guy is more macho and another should f**k out. Maybe scary looking knife would be better here but it is nothing to do with a real fight and I'm not a specialist in this matter.

But if you are completely sure your life is in real danger and the single way to save it is your opponent rapid incapacitation - you should use your knife unawares, without previous showing you have it. Here a black blade can help you to win a split second because your opponent may not recognize a knife in your hand. This can but not must rice your chances to survey this fight.

On the other hand, I agree with Mr. JB
smile.gif
- scratched BT2 coated blade looks really ugly although continues to protect a blade against corrosion. Both popular ATS-34 and it American counterpart 154CM are not the most rust resistant steels among ones called "stainless".

Well, the reasons to choose coated blade would be:
1. Frequent contact with salt water.
2. Knife wearing method when knife stays in close contact with your body (f. ex. inside the waistband).
3. High air humidity and heat.
4. All these reasons together.

As to serration usefulness - we discussed this matter some time ago, please visit this thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum32/HTML/002757.html

So your choice should depend on your knife intended use, as usually at least
wink.gif
 
Actually the rolling lock is more reliable than the Axis lock in both strength and wear. The difference, though, to the individual knife user is insignificant as both locks will withstand more force than most users are capable of applying.

The Pocket Hobbit is really not suitable as a "defense" weapon in the strictest sense as it was designed more for close combat, using a particular style of fighting. This implys more of an offensive role than defense and could get a person into trouble in some jurisdictions.

It is an intimidating tool though and it's mere display could (and has) discourage a person who has intentions to do harm.

The other side of that coin is that it could be taken as a challenge in some cases and make a bad situation worse.

You might consider the REKAT Carnivour as an alternative to the PH. While the blade shape is a bit different than the Ares, it is in the same category as to general profile, and is suitable for utility use where the PH is limited.

It also has Birdsong's Black-Ti Coating where the Ares has BT2. The Kaspar-type handle is very comfortable in both the sabre and reverse grip.

Heat treatment of the steel in the REKAT line has generally been more consistently reliable than Benchmade and it has the rolling lock.

Unless you plan to cut a lot of line or webbing, serrations are not really necessary and can prove to be an inconvenience when sharpening.

Pricing is comparable in the 'net markets.

------------------
Dennis Wright
("Have a knife day!")

(NSTBFCM)
 
Dennis, I could say: I like the Axis Lock because it is ambidextrous, easy to operate, provides smooth action etc., etc.
But
Originally posted by Dennis Wright:
Actually the rolling lock is more reliable than the Axis lock in both strength and wear.

Could you prove this? Maybe some data or side-by-side test results? Could you mention in which test Rolling Lock outperformed Axis Lock in strength, reliability or wear resistance?

I agree, titanium nitride coating is more durable than teflon, more expensive also, BTW.

As to heat treatment - how many knives from one manufacturer should be tested for edge retention against another manufacturer's knives to consider: "Yes, here heat treatment is better"?

 
I have both a Pocket Hobbit and a Hobbit Warrior. The design of the knife is well thought out and in the reverse grip, the "teeth" on the spine of the blade allow you to trap and control an opponents hands and wrists as well as tear into flesh. It has been mentioned that the hobbit design may not be suitable for everyone, an I agree. Even the manufacturer has said that it was desined for reverse grip use, although I have found that the Pocket Hobbit is still comfortable in the forward grip.

As far as lock strength, has anybody been able to make either one fail? I haven't heard of any yet.

Both knives are a good choice for defense, but awareness, preparedness, and training are also important.

Currently, I carry a Pioneer II Tanto from REKAT and although it is smaller than these two knives, it serves its purpose well,

Finish has to go to the Ares. But my opinion is that a carry or using knife doesn't have to be all that pretty.

 
I could also say the same thing about the axis lock. I agree, that it is easier to use. We weren't talking about that. The subject was strength.

I said that the rolling lock was stronger. Do you have test data to prove otherwise?

I know of tests done by REKAT in which the Carnivour lock held up to 625lb without failing. Pocket Hobbits reportedly held up to 1500lb in some tests. The most the Axis lock held was 200lb.

I did not see these reports myself. They were related to me from reliable sources and I have no reason to dispute them.

I understand the design and engineering of both locks and the inherent strength and construction of the rolling lock is superior, IMO.

The design of the RL is also such that, as wear occurs, the lock just rotates further into the notch in the blade and maintains it's integrity.

Conceivably, with enough wear, the Axis lock can round off it's mating surfaces and become like a cam and be forced to disengage when enough pressure is applied.

In reality, however, the likelyhood of creating significant wear on a lock of either design is miniscule considering the quality of materials used.

Concerning heat treatment, it's a well known fact that BM has had some problems with inconsistency in their blade performance. Brittleness has been a problem with some knives having chipping problems on edges, serrations and tips while other knives have come out with poor edge holding quality. I have seen both.

On the other hand, I have never had a REKAT come back with a bad blade. Others may have but I haven't and I was one of their first dealers.

I'm not saying that the BM730 is a bad choice. I like it myself. I do believe, however that in the strength department, REKAT has the advantage.

------------------
Dennis Wright
("Have a knife day!")

(NSTBFCM)
 
Actually, there was a fairly recent post (sometime in the last month or so, I think) in which the strengths of various locks were tested. The Axis lock and Integral lock were the only ones which remained operable, albiet a bit rough (but still safe). The Rolling lock failed. And, as an engineer, I can say that the Axis lock is a significantly stronger design, even if all we had to go on were drawings, not tests. Also, the Rolling lock has many more small components, each of which is a possible source of failure due to wear, whereas the Axis lock should be nearly immune to wear. And, any wear that does show up will be noticeable long before it becomes a source of failure, so the knife could be repaired/replaced under warranty, whereas the Rolling lock will tend to fail with little or no warning.

--JB

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e_utopia@hotmail.com
 
DrMRJ, you are right saying "training is important", but in my opinion you are right only partially. Training is all! Well trained fighter armed with the simplest kitchen knife, large nail or even with broken glass bottle can win the fight with so-so trained fellow (or not trained at all) despite the last would be armed with "super-deadly-ninja-killing-knife". REKAT Pocket Hobbit has teeth on the rear side of the blade to "control" opponent's arm? Very nice, let's add a hook to handle's butt to "control" opponents leg if he would try to kick you, let's add a hammer to "control" opponent's head, etc., etc. As result will appear "the best fighting knife which allows completely to replace the lack of training with hardware"!
biggrin.gif


Dennis, please note - I never wrote Axis Lock is stronger on anyway better that Rolling Lock. I just wrote I like it more and tried to justify why. This is not the same, right?
rolleyes.gif


OK, now about data. BM claims Axis Lock can hold 200 pounds without damage. I'm engineer also and I can believe this info. You are suggesting Rolling Lock can hold 3 to 7,5 times more depending on model. I'm not saying it is not truth but I simply can't believe these data, sorry. I could believe if the difference between worse and better lock would be in 20-30% range maximally because we are comparing very comparable materials and very comparable dimensions. Just my engineer's opinion.

As to heat treating. Maybe the rumors about BM "spotty" heat treating are truth and maybe not, like each rumors at least
smile.gif
Quite frequently the source of this kind rumors are fellows who do not know how to use knife and try to prove it is manufacturers fault. I have some MB knives and I use my AFCK with ATS-34 blade daily during near the year - no one problem with chipping or worse edge retention. Just my opinion again
wink.gif


Now about tests. JB, I also read about this destructive test but this argument escaped my warning. Thanks for your suggestion, this argument is really hard to beat. We could return to mentioned thread in this discussion if someone could post the link.


[This message has been edited by Sergiusz Mitin (edited 05-24-2000).]
 
JB, thanks for posting that link. I hadn't seen it. It certainly is fascinating reading and, if true, while not very scientific, is pretty revealing as to the kind of abuse these things can absorb.

You mentioned, though that the RL failed in that test. I didn't get that.

REKAT Carnivour-this was an incredible knife, great lock, and the testing was very similair to the Axis lock's testing, with all my might, i could not get it to budge-even with the malet. I must say though, the rolling lock on the rekat did bend alot more then the axis lock did-while giving pressure with my weight-but it never failed, nor the axis lock.

The knife held and didn't fold. That tells me that it didn't fail. All locks appear to have been damaged to some extent and that would lead me to believe that none of them "passed".

You said:
Also, the Rolling lock has many more small components, each of which is a possible source of failure due to wear

Which small parts are you referring to? The actual lock is a single round pin that has a slot in it for the blade to pass through and a spring to power it. That's only two parts. There is no way for the pin to move fore and aft or up and down. It can only rotate. It can only fail by shearing. The rest of the mechanism consists of the thumb slide, return spring and actuating (unlocking) lever. Those components have nothing to do with locking force or lock integrity. If one of them fails, one simply wouldn't be able to unlock and close the blade. An inconvenience, certainly but hardly a hazard.

As a technician (I never finished all of the coursed to be an engineer) who has actually worked on both types of locks, I don't agree that the Axis lock is a "significantly stronger" design and neither will it give warning before failure in all cases.

Initially, BM had problems with the omega springs that powered the locking bar but, to their credit, they recognized the problem and quickly fixed it. I haven't heard of one breaking in a long time.

Actually, if there was a problem with either lock, I would be inclined to examine the heat treating and tempering of the components, rather than the design. With both types having equally proper hardness and tempering, (pivot pins and locking bars), I doubt that either one would have failed. The bending reported in the "test" seems to indicate that more attention should be paid to that area. Same for the pivot on the Mono-Lock.

Sergiusz, I also like the Axis lock. I didn't say otherwise. I did say that I thought that the Rolling lock was better and you asked if I had any side-by-side test data to prove it. I simply asked you if you had any data to prove otherwise. I was simply responding to your questioning of my opinion.
rolleyes.gif


I don't believe that the test related in the link that JB provided actually proves anything, especially since the person in question refuses to send the knife in for examination and verification.

If you can't believe how much the Rolling Lock can hold, I suggest that you take that up with REKAT, since that is where the figures come from. I have no reason to disbelieve them but, then, I'm not an engineer.
rolleyes.gif


My experience tells me that the "rumors" of spotty heat treatment are true. As a dealer of both REKAT and BM. I have seen a lot of knives of both brands pass through my shop.

In the past three years I have had seven BM knives come back with blades that appeared to have been improperly heat treated. Two of them were 910 Strykers that needed constant and repeated sharpening. they would not hold their edges. One was returned to BM by the customer and they replaced it without comment. The other one was kept by it's owner and I occasionally get it back for sharpening. The blade steel is not as hard as it should be. I don't know why the owner won't send it back.

I also had two BM Emerson models (970 and 970SBT) come in with chips out of the edges and in the case of the 970SBT, broken serrations. A BM800, AFCK was also brought in with broken serrations and a pretty good sized divot out of the blade. All three knives were sent back to BM and replaced.

Then there were two AFCKs (1 large 800SBT and one small 812SBT) that came in with locks that had failed because the blades had worn at the contact point where the lock touches the blade.

Both wear patterns were identical. The blades were worn smooth and curved so that they cammed the locks out of engagement when pressure was applied to the back of the blades.

Do I believe there is/was a heat treatment problem at Benchmade? I'm absolutely convinced of it.

None of the REKAT models that I have sold have ever come back with any complaints about heat treat or blade performance. One Carnivour came back one time due to roughness in opening. I replaced the knife and then smoothed out the roughness on the returned one. A couple of days later, the owner came in and traded back for the one that I smoothed out. That was the only problem I ever had with the REKAT brand.

I don't doubt that the AFCK that you have is a good one. Most of them are. I have seen enough of them, though, to have a different opinion than you do, that's all.




------------------
Dennis Wright
("Have a knife day!")

(NSTBFCM)

[This message has been edited by Dennis Wright (edited 05-27-2000).]
 
Dennis: Well, I think that the test conducted was far more scientific than REKAT's assertion of their lock's strength, with no details of the test.

I mentioned failure as in that the knife was no longer operable in a vaguely normal fashion. The Rolling Lock no longer operated, but the Axis still operated, albeit with a bit of play.

Again, in my reference to small parts, I was refering to failure in the general sense, that the lock would no longer operate normally, while the Axis lock is far simpler. Also, the Axis lock's method of accounting for wear, with the lock pin simply sliding farther along the slot, is a more 'robust' (less gremlin-prone) method. Also, if some of those small parts break, the lock may not engage properly (small part jams lock in 'open' position, etc., etc.), without necessarily making that fact known. The Axis mechanism is open, and it's engagement may be verified visually (or by feel; those of us who retract the lock to open the blade feel it return 'home' as it is released). That, I think is the real drawback of a lock with those extra few parts.

As for the overall failure strength of the locks, the Axis lock should be stronger, although I challenge anyone to break either in even vaguely normal use. If REKAT produced a knife that appealed to me, I would buy it. I'm not saying that the Rolling Lock is lower than the liner lock, just that I would place it in a close second place, with the Axis and Integral in first. Oh, and I guesss I did say "significantly stronger," but I really meant that in the scientific sense; that the strength difference is reasonably more than the variance in strength due to manufacturing anomolies in individual samples. Basically, the difference is strength is academic. As I said a few sentences ago, you really can't even damage either without really trying at it.

The Axis will give warning before failure, since wear is evident by looking at how far the bar moves forward. The Rolling Lock's degree of 'cam' adjustment is not information which is readily available to the user. As the Rolling Lock wears, and adjusts, the cross-section on which the shearing stress acts gets smaller and smaller, so the lock gets weaker and weaker, until it eventually (long eventually) fails. The Axis bar properly engages until the point where it has worn enough that it slides all the way forward in its slot when in the locked position. If anyone has an Axis lock worn to that point, I'd like to see it; I open mine nearly exclusively by flicking, and the lock has not moved significantly forward.

As for the Omega springs, there are two of them, and should one fail, the lock will still engage. And, the lock will operate very roughly with only one spring, so it will be readily apparent that the knife should be repaired.

Heat-treating should not really come into play, as far as comparing lock designs, since I hignly doubt that either company heat-treats the lock components in-house. All appear to be commercial barstock, so the likelyhood of a bad heat-treat would be nearly identical between companies. All engineering is compromise; if the various pins were hardened to a higher Rc, they would be less impact resistant, so a decent compromise must be reached.

I think the test I linked to proves a bit more than REKAT's assertion as to the stregth of the Rolling Lock. The numbers obtained have as much to do with testing methods as with the lock itself. Not sending the knife in is still one step above not even describing the test.

As for the blade heat-treat, that's a different issue, and I don't have any information related to it. Not realted to this lock strength discussion, though, since the only mention of lock stregth involves liner locks (of course, this thread is not solely a lock strength discussion, so they ar estill appropriate).

As I said, neither knife is seriously flawed. I prefer the Axis lock due to its much simpler design, and especially due to the ambidextrous nature of the Axis lock.


Bandityo: black blades are less discrete because people notice them when the knife is used for 'normal' purposes, as they seem more threatening. An uncoated blade seems more like the kitchen knives they handle on a regular basis, so they take less notice.

--JB

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e_utopia@hotmail.com
 
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