Best process for finishing knife?

AddictChris

AddictChris

Joined
May 18, 2019
Messages
43
so this is my first successful Damascus, and hopefully very soon my first successful knife of this type. Basically a Bowie, but short. Blade is 6”

Ladder for the blade, twist for the guard. I’m quite happy with how both turned out

Anyway, the handle is cocobolo and ebony spacer. This is not glued or pinned yet.

Lots of shaping left to do on the handle, and I’m trying to decide the best way to get the handle to stay firmly in place while I’m shaping, but then will be removable because I’ll for sure want to touch up the etch and polish on the guard, and maybe the blade a touch as well.

Is the Vaseline and/or Teflon tape on the tang, and bedding with epoxy the best way to go?

D522FD3D-4D9E-44A9-AC90-A8795F6FC15E.jpeg


3A8BAD9A-948B-45F8-8F05-D4DD5B77F322.jpeg
 
AddictChris said:
so this is my first successful Damascus, and hopefully very soon my first successful knife of this type. Basically a Bowie, but short. Blade is 6”

Ladder for the blade, twist for the guard. I’m quite happy with how both turned out

Anyway, the handle is cocobolo and ebony spacer. This is not glued or pinned yet.

Lots of shaping left to do on the handle, and I’m trying to decide the best way to get the handle to stay firmly in place while I’m shaping, but then will be removable because I’ll for sure want to touch up the etch and polish on the guard, and maybe the blade a touch as well.

Is the Vaseline and/or Teflon tape on the tang, and bedding with epoxy the best way to go?

D522FD3D-4D9E-44A9-AC90-A8795F6FC15E.jpeg


3A8BAD9A-948B-45F8-8F05-D4DD5B77F322.jpeg
Click to expand...


First off, wow. Secondly, I think your above mentioned method will be preferred if it isn't a complete takedown with a screw & pommel nut holding it together.

I've never done it but there are quite a few videos online that make for great references - my questions would be, what epoxy is best for it, and how long do you wait?
 
I Like using "Acraglas" it's a product that's been used for many years for "Bedding" Rifle actions in Wood Stocks.
 
i think bedding in epoxy would be the best option. i would use a slow cure epoxy like g-flex and make sure the handle comes off when the epoxy left over in your mixing cup just starts to get firm, respread the vaseline on the tang, and put the handle back on to fully harden.
 
john april said:
i think bedding in epoxy would be the best option. i would use a slow cure epoxy like g-flex and make sure the handle comes off when the epoxy left over in your mixing cup just starts to get firm, respread the vaseline on the tang, and put the handle back on to fully harden.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

This is what I though, but its nice to have confirmation since I'm a n00b :)
 
3fifty7 said:
Man I love that layer count. So bold with a good amount of movement.
Click to expand...

Thanks :)

Its 40 layers total. I considered one more fold but I am hammering this stuff out by hand and already lost a lot of steel. After I etched it I decided
I didnt need another fold because I love the way it turned out :)
 
AddictChris said:
Its 40 layers total. I considered one more fold but I am hammering this stuff out by hand and already lost a lot of steel. After I etched it I decided
I didnt need another fold because I love the way it turned out
Click to expand...
Chris, you did REALLY good, and folks who say it takes 100+ layers for pattern welded steel to look good haven't seen your blade. GREAT work.
 
Hey Ken H. I used T-88 when it first came out for boat building and had several less than stellar experiences. I switched to G-flex and have never had a failure.
Tim
 
Tim, and others.

The trick with T-88 is weighing the two parts correctly ( they are not 1:1) and letting it cure for 24 hours.
 
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