Best protective coating to use on a stripped BK* when it will be in Harsh Envoroment

[PolygonalGuy]

I have a couple of Camillus BK2s that have been stripped and polished. Both are have been convexed with Micartas and are users. Lets say a 45 day period with fequent use but no maintenance will be in their futures a couple of times a year. What coatings, lubs etc. would be best to keep ye ole rust away until I am back to a place where daily service is practical? Food prep and skinning are both very likely during their heavy use period. Any thoughts are welcome!

 

[mrn8]

I would consider getting it blued by a gunsmith and wiping out down daily with a silicon impregnated cloth.

 

[tradewater]

If it will be in regular use, you shouldn't have a problem with rusting. It will patina naturally. Just don't put it up wet. Frequently used knives don't have time to rust much.

 

[GingivitisKahn]

I would consider getting it blued by a gunsmith and wiping out down daily with a silicon impregnated cloth.

Bluing is a bad idea if they are going to be used for food prep - poison and all. I'd force a patina (assuming they don't have a natural one) with citrus fruit or something and be prepared to either keep them oiled up or rework them after the extended period. They ought to be fine.

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Beckerhead #42

 

[Guyon]

but no maintenance

You have to maintain it, even if maintenance just looks like a wipe down with a dry rag.
You put it in the sheath with blood all over the blade, and you're going to get some pretty bad rust.
Just stick a mineral oil rag in a Ziplock. Dry the blade off on your pants leg, hit it with the oil rag, and you'll be good to go.

 

[wasatchdan]

If you're talking about a food prep knife, I read on this forum somewhere that you'd want to cold blue your knife rather than hot blue it, since the hot blue is toxic to human beings. I can't remember which thread it was off the top of my head. You can cold blue your knife at home and save some cash. You could also DuraClear your blades if you like the stripped look but want the rust resistance.

For lube, I'd keep a little bottle of mineral oil for the blade and rub some on from time to time, since mineral oil will not contaminate your food. It seems to work fine on my BK-2.

 

[mrn8]

Oops, I didn't think about food prep. I wouldn't coat it, then, like others said. Keep it dry and clean, maybe a little oil, but you might naturally get that with food prep.

 

[thatotherguy]

Scuff them up a little bit with ultrafine sandpaper and patina them with an even coat of mustard.
Natural foodsafe protection, basically controlled rusting like blue.

 

[whereismyclock]

Completely agree with our biscuity overlord.

When I'm out on the sled I bring my bk7 to clear, trees, a circle for a fire for food, and baton wet wood for is dry interior. All I bring is a square of cotton from an old t-shirt i have in a small plastic container. Put a dollop of mineral oil in the container and pack it in my bag with the other stuff. No rust yet.

These things don't rust incredibly easy. My best recommendation is take it through its paces see how far you can push it. If it rusts it will only be a little and then you will know how far you can take it. Give it a scrub down with steel wool and some more mineral oil and you're good as new.

 

[InquisitorLord]

It shouldn't be too heavy to grab a small stone with a small piece of leather, a quarter of a piece of steel wool, and a mineral oiled rag for field maintenance and should only take a few minutes every so often to keep it tip top. I would avoid hot or cold bluing for food prep just to be sure as I have heard both toxic and non-toxic for both methods so IMO you are better off with a patina...

 

[Sam Hell]

Or stop stripping your beckers.

 

[willis]

What Tradewater said.

 

[C_Tanner]

Ooo! Thanks for reminding me! Need to maintain the BHK machete tonight (my only blade not made by Ka-Bar)

 

[SleepyBadger]

I carry a stick of lip balm, great natural and cheap blade coating. No more chapped blades and it smells great too!