Was wondering if anyone out there had experience on removing "spider" oxidation on carbon steel blades. I've recently bought a very nice old case folder that is mint except for a few of these oxidation spots on some of the blades. What can I do to remove them to the best of any available technique, without hurting the value/condition of the knife overall? Is something like FLITZ acceptable. Thanks for any help....!!!!!!!
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Best rust removal on collectable knives......
- Thread starter GELADEN!
- Start date
If you want the knife to remain a collector's item. Do not remove rust!!! not with flux, or anything else. Most collector's including myself, do not want an "original" knife if it has been altered in any way. You can oil it, but dont alter it. many people counterfeit, rework (replace blades, parts, etc.) alter knives and then the value is drastically reduced. if its something you want to keep and use, use the flitz, but if you plan on selling it some day, leave it alone!!! A little oil, no problem. If it has some "new" red rust spots, then you can take a toothpick and flake some of it off, but even doing this could ruin the value. I only say this from a collecting point of view. Ive been collecting over 23 years and as yet have to see many collectors (at shows, knife stores, flea markets, etc.) be interested in purchasing something that has been "reworked", "reapired", "altered" (etc.).
Hope this hel
ps some!
Hope this hel
ps some!
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2003
- Messages
- 6,537
I agree with Rev.
However, I tend to collect for my own enjoyment, not collector value. So I usually take the knives and "stablize" them. The goal for me is to stop the piece from deteriorating any further. I don't buff out patina on blades or bolsters, or sharpen the blades either, unless it's a user.
As far as stabilizing the knife, I try to carefully remove any accumulated rust and gunk, without scratching or damaging the piece. Most of my work usually happens inside the knife, where springs and liners tend to gather crud.
Then I treat those parts with a product like Rust-Free.
Beauty is indeed in the eye of the beholder, so be careful what you do to these pieces.
Glenn
However, I tend to collect for my own enjoyment, not collector value. So I usually take the knives and "stablize" them. The goal for me is to stop the piece from deteriorating any further. I don't buff out patina on blades or bolsters, or sharpen the blades either, unless it's a user.
As far as stabilizing the knife, I try to carefully remove any accumulated rust and gunk, without scratching or damaging the piece. Most of my work usually happens inside the knife, where springs and liners tend to gather crud.
Then I treat those parts with a product like Rust-Free.
Beauty is indeed in the eye of the beholder, so be careful what you do to these pieces.
Glenn
Thanks for the info folks. I'd show an image but I'm not a Gold Member. The oxidation is (in words) what I would describe as spider-like corrosion on otherwise mirror finished blades. They are raised above the surface of the metal, and I'm sure to some extent have pitted the surface below. Sort of like spiders skating on ice. I'm not sure oiling them would cease their advance!?
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2003
- Messages
- 20,206
Paradox.
Old Japanese swords are fairly collectible, and no one thinks anything of spending BIG bucks to have them polished by an expert.
Putting a WW II Mark 2 on a buffer to "shine it up" would be something else. The patina is a big part of the appeal of such blades for me.
Old Japanese swords are fairly collectible, and no one thinks anything of spending BIG bucks to have them polished by an expert.
Putting a WW II Mark 2 on a buffer to "shine it up" would be something else. The patina is a big part of the appeal of such blades for me.
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2001
- Messages
- 1,217
I have to agree with the Rev. My good friend Howard Melnick's advice on antique collectibles is...."NEVER phuck with them!"
Now, on the flip side, since I don't collect that stuff, and am into "current" custom gent's knives, I would send it back to the maker for ANY repair or reconditioning. This occaisionally needs to be done if a spring slips on an "assisted opener". The best thing to do, is to wipe a knife off after fondleing with a clean chamois, before putting it back into its case. All damascus should be waxed "on arrival" and if you store your knives in a safe use a "golden rod" or other dessicator. Any "restoration" work should be done by a pro, and in SOME cases this is acceptable and even desirable.
Now, on the flip side, since I don't collect that stuff, and am into "current" custom gent's knives, I would send it back to the maker for ANY repair or reconditioning. This occaisionally needs to be done if a spring slips on an "assisted opener". The best thing to do, is to wipe a knife off after fondleing with a clean chamois, before putting it back into its case. All damascus should be waxed "on arrival" and if you store your knives in a safe use a "golden rod" or other dessicator. Any "restoration" work should be done by a pro, and in SOME cases this is acceptable and even desirable.
Gollnick
Musical Director
- Joined
- Mar 22, 1999
- Messages
- 29,258
Amen, Rev.
The most you can do to a truly collectible blade is gently remove surface dirt with a soft cloth or compressed air. But anything that might remove the oxidation will also damage the patina which only time could restore.
A collector would rathe have what is left of the original than any attempt to "restore" it.
There are exceptions to this in Oriental knives and swords where polishing and other restoration can increase value... but only if done expertly.
The first rule for collectors is always: do no harm.
The most you can do to a truly collectible blade is gently remove surface dirt with a soft cloth or compressed air. But anything that might remove the oxidation will also damage the patina which only time could restore.
A collector would rathe have what is left of the original than any attempt to "restore" it.
There are exceptions to this in Oriental knives and swords where polishing and other restoration can increase value... but only if done expertly.
The first rule for collectors is always: do no harm.