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best sanding belt for removing scratches?
- Thread starter stevep
- Start date
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,161
You can only replaces scratches with scratches, there is no magical belt that will buff out the scratch without altering the finish.
That said,
A45 "Gator" belts are very nice for restoring factory like finishes.
That said,
A45 "Gator" belts are very nice for restoring factory like finishes.
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,161
That's going to yield a LOT of unwanted polishing.
pjwoolw
Sharpening guy
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2012
- Messages
- 407
The Gator belts do work well for that kind of work. Thats what they were developed for and are readily available in a variety of grits. Last a long time. In may cases I finish with a Scotchbrite like medium belt. It depends on what your looking for finish wise and what works best for the individual. No magic bullet for sure. At least not yet. Start with as high, grit wise, that you have available then go down in grit if need be. Practice knives or other steel items to play around with would be a good idea too.
The answer is, a belt that is the same grit (approximately) as the original grind lines were created with. A lot of blades seem to have 320 grit or so grind lines. I just looked at several of my Spydercos and they seem to have kind of a "combo finish". There are grind lines that look coarse, like around 320. But then the whole thing has a bright polish. So it almost looks like it was ground in with 320(ish) and then finished with something much higher like 1200.
I don't make knives and haven't studied it, so my knowledge of what they might be doing is limited. I just know that to grind out scratches, you have to start with the a grit at least as low as the scratches themselves. ...and to replicate a particular finish, you (mostly) need the same grits used to create that finish.
Brian.
It's true what Jason said. However, if you spend some time on the proper belts, you can get some pretty good results.
After you have created a burr, A45-A16-A6. Once you wear down an A16 & A6, you will find them a bit more useful.
I don't like using Micron belts for sharpening nor am I a fan of the leather belts.
After you have created a burr, A45-A16-A6. Once you wear down an A16 & A6, you will find them a bit more useful.
I don't like using Micron belts for sharpening nor am I a fan of the leather belts.
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,161
I almost fainted when you said you sharpened that yanagi on belts, although, that is very much at the end of its life so it's ok 
It kills me to see a blade in that condition though, lots of steeling that should have never been performed.
It kills me to see a blade in that condition though, lots of steeling that should have never been performed.
I almost fainted when you said you sharpened that yanagi on belts, although, that is very much at the end of its life so it's ok
It kills me to see a blade in that condition though, lots of steeling that should have never been performed.
I bet!
Belt sharpening I know isn't very popular amongst the elite. However, I'm very comfortable with this method. I sharpen Shun, Miyabi, Globals etc., everyday using belts. I use guides, belt rotates into the edge and everything but heavy cleavers (convex), have a complete/even/accurate flat grind.
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2011
- Messages
- 5,729
Yeah you look like you put out some killer edges on that belt sander man!!
The only thing I don't really like about it is that it inherently removes more metal than doing it by hand, even when careful. But it's an amazing tool that cuts time WAY down and when you are doing it die a living well, you can't really be without one hehe.
I sharpen for over 100 restaurants and butchers. Each one has 6-8 individuals with personal knives. Also, 30-40 homeowners each week. That is a lot of individuals.
I really think I'm doing something right.
Perhaps there is a way one can use belts effectively without removing access metal!
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,161
It's just the type of blade that it was, not anything against belt sharpening though. When in better condition its best to do all final sharpening on stones, but in that condition it's whatever works.
I've seen my share of yanagi's that looked like that... always a sad day.
I've seen my share of yanagi's that looked like that... always a sad day.
I take it you are either getting a 1x42 or 2x42 Kalamazoo. No matter - they are both good machines but the 1x42 is far more popular and more belts are available for it.
Could you clarify if you mean the overall shape of the bevel or the level of finish? If you are wishing to preserve to finish, simply use a belt to match the level of finish. If you want a finer finish, just go with a finer belt.
The 1x42 is not an ideal tool for single bevel knives, but you can certainly use larger variable speed grinders for working on single bevel knives if you have the skill. I can go into detail on this if this is your interest.
You can also use a properly setup belt to get as fine an edge as you wish on a belt grinder.
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Ken
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Ken