I use the SharpMaker pretty much the way the video shows, and the Duckfoot about the same way. I do ten to twenty strokes on the bevel side for every one stroke on the flat side. I also alternate between a heel to tip draw stroke and a tip to heel push stroke to keep the sides of the points sharpened evenly. Use very light pressure so the edge rides along the stone, in and out of the scallops.
Before I tried this, I worried that the SharpMaker would round off the points. After getting an old serrated Police that was dull and had the points rounded off anyway, I found the opposite to be true. The points were the last part to get sharpened, and they are much more pointed now than they were when I started.
Once again, on the DMT serration sharpener, USE VERY LIGHT PRESSURE when sharpening. Heavy pressure will rock the diamonds, causing them to cut their way out of the nickel matrix used to secure them to the steel rod. Before long, you have a smooth steel instead of a diamond hone (voice of experience speaking). Those diamonds are the hardest material we have, and they will abrade the hardest steel with the lightest contact. Let them do the work. It may take a bit longer, but the hones will last virtually forever if you do.
I have turned a part serrated Benchmade 705 into a plain edge recurve, but the formerly serrated section is now V grind rather than chisel grind. It isn't real pretty, but than that knife wasn't real pretty when I got it. That is the problem with removing serrations, you either have to remove a lot of the plain edge as well, or the serrated section ends up being recessed.