Best sharpener for 1095 carbon steel?

JDX

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Mar 2, 2014
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I own a Kabar Mark 1, and a Mora Bushcraft Black, the kabar is 1095, I THINK the mora is as well. If not, correct me! Anyways, is there any specific sharpener I should use? I've never actually owned one
 
There's a pretty big list of sharpeners that would work for 1095. Do you want freehand or guided? Price range may help. I won't be splitting atoms with my knives but I have tons of fancy sharpening stuff and always go back to just a plain old Arkansas stone with a strop or if for some reason I'm in a hurry I use a KME.

Edit: It may help to think of sharpening as a skill more than a tool. A skilled person can get a hair shaving edge from a landscaping brick (never tried but doubt I could do that). So maybe just look for what you can afford and practice to get good at what you get. If that makes sense.
 
There's a pretty big list of sharpeners that would work for 1095. Do you want freehand or guided? Price range may help. I won't be splitting atoms with my knives but I have tons of fancy sharpening stuff and always go back to just a plain old Arkansas stone with a strop or if for some reason I'm in a hurry I use a KME.

Edit: It may help to think of sharpening as a skill more than a tool. A skilled person can get a hair shaving edge from a landscaping brick (never tried but doubt I could do that). So maybe just look for what you can afford and practice to get good at what you get. If that makes sense.
sorry, I'm not familiar with a lot of terminology, I'm still a bit new. I'm open to anything, I'm not looking to spend too much (idk what they go for, but definitely not over 50, and I'd want it to be portable so I can give it a quick sharpening before cleaning game and such.

I'm also about to purchase a knife with D2 steel.

Calling it a skill rather than a tool definitely helped clear things up. And obviously I've never sharpened a blade before, so any tips are welcome!
 
Well; just looking at the random stuff I have laying by my desk I can offer 4 options that work "for me".
1. Worksharp made some all in one looking thingy with a stone, strop, ceramic rod, and such on it. Haven't used it yet but in theory seems pretty neat and usefull.
2. Dia-sharp makes a flat diamond sharpener that looks like a credit card and fits in an altoids tin.
3. some no name rectangle stone probably from a sharpening kit that I just use freehand for small knives
4. Gerber makes a little sharpening stone that comes in a nylon pouch. Not sure of the name.

I guess the only thing that I could say is avoid the carbide "v" shaped "sharpeners". All they really do is remove steel.

Some tips once you find a sharpener:
1. Fluid motion
2. Consistent angle. I rock my body more than move my arms
3. Watch for a small burr to form before switching sides
4. Practice
5. Practice
6. Practice
7. Youtube sharpening videos
8. Practice
9. Practice
 
I own a Kabar Mark 1, and a Mora Bushcraft Black, the kabar is 1095, I THINK the mora is as well. If not, correct me! Anyways, is there any specific sharpener I should use? I've never actually owned one

First off take a few moment and read some of the 'sticky' threads at the top of this forum section especially this one:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1014274-What-is-sharpening-a-knife-about

The how to is more important than the what to use.

A simple system will meet your needs at first. A Smiths two sided diamond sharpener

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009YV6L/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1405203164&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

And a leather strop
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00888FAC4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1405203262&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40

And stropping compound also on Amazon.

That'll get you going without breaking the bank. Or go to a hardware store and get a wet stone (two sided).

Mike
 
Awesome! Thanks for the tips. I looked at that sticky, and it was informative, but the terminology is new to me, what exactly is a burr? And what does a leather strop do?
 
A burr is a crucial term you will need to know if getting into sharpening. Here is a quick definition but you would be best watching some experienced sharpeners on youtube and they will walk you through it. A burr is when you have worked on side of an edge on a sharpener creating a rising of metal or lip on the other opposite edge. A good even burr is a sign you are doing things correctly and it is time to switch sides. To get a good edge you MUST work a burr first. A strop in the way he proposed is essentially a leather belt you put different grit compounds on to fine tune and edge and make it that extra bit sharp and refined.

As for sharpeners, I would recommend a spiderco sharpmaker, great sharpener for getting started and hard to mess up with the angle. But if you are reprofiling and need to take off a bunch of steel then its not the best. Hope that helps. Start searching the forums, there is a wealth of knowledge!
 
Sorry about off topic post, but are mora carbonsteel knives made of 1095 like op says? 1095 CroVan?
 
Sorry about off topic post, but are mora carbonsteel knives made of 1095 like op says? 1095 CroVan?

Found this info on one of Mora's own sites, linked here -->: http://www.moraofsweden.se/knife-care
"Types of steel and alloys
We currently produce knives with three different types of steel in the blade:
1. Carbon steel, so-called C100 steel, alloyed with 1% carbon. Usually 58-60 HRC
2. Laminate steel (laminated steel) as per AISI O1 with approx 1% carbon in the core. 58-60 HRC
3. Stainless steel, 12C27. Usually 56-58 HRC"

The 'C100' steel is of Italian origin, and approximates 1095 in makeup, apparently. Zero chromium or vanadium in C100, so not the same as 1095 CroVan.


David
 
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