best sharpening system for a complete novice?

Joined
Oct 11, 2000
Messages
55
hey all just a quick question for the knife makers out there
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what is the best way for a complete novice at sharpening to get those sharp edges restored after some use? are the angle guid systems by companies like lanskey worth the investment?
should i just buy a good stone and practice on older knives? ohh and is it worth it to buy a diamond based sharpening system or are the ceramic stones just as good? thanks in advance for any advice
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I know it seemed like a good idea to post in this forum but you'll get more responses on this topic in the general.
Most makers use their grinder with a very fine grit belt and then strop it the rest of the way, or use a buffer. Its the fastest way to go if your set up properly and with practice it will give you a very very sharp edge that looks good in terms of how even the bevels are and stuff like that. Using other methods isn't very practical when time is money and your trying to set an edge on a knife that has just been ground (the edge is still thick enough that you need to set the bevels on the cutting edge, which takes long time with stones, kind of like changing the angles on a benchmade)But thats not the best method for maintaining a knife or occasional sharpening. Its not very cost effective if you have to buy a grinder either
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For what its worth, I really like the results I get with bench stones, preferably arkansas and ceramic stones. Free hand sharpening takes some time to learn and you won't get the greatest results on your first try ( at least I didn't, but I learned how to do it when I was 8 so anyone should be able to figure it out) After you've learned though its faster than most other methods because you can work on the whole length of the edge at the same time, there are no clamps to mess with, and there are more choices on stones.
You can check out some different types of stones at www.woodcraft.com I wouild recommend starting with a soft arkansas a hard arkansas, and then adding either a fine or ultra fine ceramic stone, or a black surgical arkansas stone once you got the hang of it. You'll also need honing oil. which is cheap and keeps the stones from getting glazed over.
I would either try a search or posting your question over in the general forum where you'll get lots of responses. Adn lots of people saying I'm dumb for going free hand and telling you to buy a sharpmaker.
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It'll feel better when it stops hurting.
 
Read the FAQ, go get a Norton stone (walmart has 'em I think, or go to sears or some place like that) or some similar ROUGH stone for grinding in relief. What is relief? Well, GO READ THE FAQ!!!! That is a must for anyone wanting to learn how to sharpen. And/or get The Razor's Edge Book of Sharpening by John Juranich. Relief is the thickness of the steel BEHIND the edge. In an axe the relief must be thick. In a pocket knife, the relief must be thin to get an edge that will cut well.

Then buy the Spyderco Sharpmaker 204. You will be able to put an edge on many things with these two pieces of kit. If you want to learn more, experiment from there. I have a Razor's Edge kit and do quite a bit of freehand sharpening too. One day I'll put a blade to my grinder to learn that method.

But for now, sharpmaker and rough stone is a good basic set.

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"Come What May..."
 
Lansky is a good investment. Diamond stones are godd if you have alot of material to remove and do not have a belt sander. Just try to position the clamp on the blade in the same place every time.
 
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