Best Sharpening System

Joined
Jun 12, 2001
Messages
48
I am looking into purchasing a sharpening system that can give me a consistent, correct angle. It has to be easy to use for beginner and not messy (i.e. oily). Major sharpening uses: Tactical fixed blades with plain and serrated; and kitchen knives.
Assumption: no budget limitation.
Love to hear from anyone with experience on any good systems that fit the above descriptions.

------------------
"Chance favors the prepared mind" -Sun Tzu
 
One you'll find frequently recommended is the Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker. It's a ceramic "V-stick" type system with 2 sharpening angles. Very easy to use and versatile.

Any of the "clamp" type systems may also fill the bill--GATCO or Lansky.

On the high end, the Edge-Pro system is considered to be top rate, but quite expensive.

Many systems-many choices. Check out the major on-line dealers for pics and specs.

Good luck and good sharpening.
smile.gif


------------------
Dick
AKTI Member # A001365
 
Well, if you really mean no budget limitation, and since time is money, I suggest you learn to sharpen free hand. In the long run, this is the best and most economical blade sharpening system

The next step down-scale is the Edge-Pro system. I have no experience with it, but folks who have tried Everything swear by it.

The Sharpmaker is very good, but will not work for all things, and is ridiculously inexpensive for such a good product. But you do have to learn how to use it right.

If I were you, and had a great deal of time and money, I would invest in two or three grades of ceramic stones, maybe an ultrafine diamond stone for the new super steels, and a scrap piece of leather to use as a strop. That's all you really need except for a great deal of practice.

Paracelsus
 
Paracelsus,

I am beginning to think you are right about the free-hand sharpening skills.

For novices like me and Researcher, what resources are there (books, videos) to help us learn the art of free-hand sharpening?

Thanks
 
The best are the edge pro and the spyderco sharpmaker you might want both the edge pro for heavy duty work and sharp maker for touch ups and edge maintaince.
 
Ditto Paracelsus. There are also some excellent books out on sharpening, by Razor Edge Systems and Lee Valley tools.

[This message has been edited by Alberta Ed (edited 06-27-2001).]
 
I've got the usual assortment of sharpeners, some purchased, some received as gifts:
Gatco Edgemate, Spyderco Sharpmaker, DMT Diafolds, Gatco Tri-Seps, Diamond Rods, Meyerco Sharpen-It etc.

I find that I don't enjoy using the clamp-on type (Lansky/Gatco) sharpeners at all.
(I use the stones more freehand than with the rig.)

The Sharpmaker (imho) is the most useful of the fixed angle type sharpeners in my experience, but I haven't used nor am I interested in the EdgePro or Skarb. There's just something about simplicity.
wink.gif


I also like the Diafolds and Tri-Seps quite a bit; as well as the diamond rods (for recurves).

Nothing seems as rewarding as freehand sharpening, and though I still have a ways to go until I can consider myself really proficient, I am in the process of getting Spyderco's ceramic benchstones in all three available grits (medium, fine, ultra fine) and a DMT Duosharp (X-coarse/Coarse) benchstone to provide assistance with tougher steels or reprofiling/repair.

Though the cost of the benchstones will be the same as an EdgePro (for example), the advantage will be the enhancing of my skills as a sharpener, no need for messy oil/water, and stones that will last for years and years if used properly.

Anyway, this gives some idea of what my own personal progression has been like in this arena.

Blues

------------------
Live Free or Die

Blues' Knife Pix
 
Well thanks for the great response dudes. It got me started now with more options and resources. There's been quite some talk about Edge Pro and Skarb. I wonder how they stack up against each other?

------------------
"Chance favors the prepared mind" -Sun Tzu
 
Blues and Para have put the nail in the coffin as far as I am concerned.

A little practice with honing stones is hard to beat.

The stones will last longer too.


------------------
" The real art of living is to keep alive the longing in human beings to become greater versions of themselves." Laurens Van der Post in memory of James Mattis
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Researcher:
I am looking into purchasing a sharpening system that can give me a consistent, correct angle.</font>

That is the Edge Pro. You can set the edge angle to an infinite number of angles and easily return within approx. 1/10 of a degree for that consistent, correct angle. Even people with many years of professional freehand sharpening experience can only keep their angles consistent within a degree or two. The system uses waterstones which are very aggressive and avoid the mess of oil.
You also might look into a powered belt sander. Knifemakers use these and they are very fast.


[This message has been edited by Erikfsn (edited 06-27-2001).]
 
Not being a sharpening expert, I take the easy way out. I regrind edges on a diamond Lansky, and sharpen knives on a SharpMaker 204.

I really should get around to reading those books though. I love the polished edge you get from a good stone. It's too bad my polished edges aren't ever sharp.
frown.gif
 
I'll chime in also for the Edge Pro. I have an Apex and the only thing I would trade it for is a Professional system from Edge Pro. You can't beat the product or the service you get with it. Ben Dale stands behind his products to the utmost and is very friendly and helpful if you have any trouble. The Sharpmaker is nice too, I haven't used a 204 yet but I did have a 203 which is nearly the same. I seriously regret trading it now.

Paracelsus is right too though, you really need to learn some of the basics as well as getting a great system to get an extremely sharp edge. The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening by John Juranitch is an excellent resource, as well as the sharpening FAQ here on BF. You can buy the Razor Edge book from their website www.razoredgesystems.com or from www.eknifeworks.com . If you don't want to buy the book, look at your local library. If they don't have it, see if they can borrow it from a nearby library that does have it. That's what I did.

If you truly have no budget limitations, get an Edge Pro Professional system, the Razor Edge book, a Sharpmaker and a set of diamond benchstones and then practice, practice, practice. If not, then get the Edge Pro and read the FAQ and practice. The most important part of that combination is reading and understanding the book. How you go about sharpening is less important than the end result.
 
Gus, there is one nail left to bang on.

I have/have had the following: Gatco clamp system, Razor's Edge Professional kit, Sharpmaker 203, bench stones, rough and smooth steel. And currently I use .......

MY GRINDER!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Here's why. I have a small grinder that I use to make knives for frustration, er, I mean for fun! I have a small drill press that I use for drilling and buffing. To sharpem plain edges I grind on the platen to get flat bevels and then I slack belt the edge to get a nice Moran edge. I buff the edge on my buffer and then either steel the edge or I lightly stroke it 5-10 times on each side, alternating strokes, using the spyderco white stones with my Sharpmaker. NEVER have my edges been better. It doesn't take that long to be able to sharpen with a grinder, though it is more dangerous and if you make a mistake you can wreck the heat treat and such.

I like my grinder because I can do a lot of blades very fast, I can do recurves, hawkbills, or whatever. Have a thick machete you need to sharpen asap? Grinder! Got a lawn mower blade that is dull? Grinder! Got a hatchet.. you know the drill. I use my sharpmaker to sharpen serrations.

Power kit isn't for everyone, but the results once you get the hang of it are amazing. Hair popping edges in a very shirt time. And you can use flat or convex bevels!

------------------
"Come What May..."
 
If you are impatient and want a perfect edge. The Tormec is the best. Not cheap but will put a edge on anything you have not just knives.
 
Two questions: What's a Tormec? and Craylola, what kind of grinder do you have?

Thanks
 
I currently use a Lansky system and now beginning to use an EZ Lap diamond stick for my knives with a recurve.

However, what internet site sells the much discussed Edge Pro system? I am interested in them also.
 
For me and time, my belt grinder and some freehand is best, for consistancy, precision, repeatability, appearance for others, the Edgepro is the last word.
http://business.gorge.net/edgepro/
You rarely see a used one for sale, that is the best reference I can think of.

[This message has been edited by cntrline (edited 06-27-2001).]
 
Edgepro is messy and can scratch your knife up. It is a good system, but has its flaws. I would get a Spyderco 204. I would also get a course synthetic stone. One 8 X 3 Razor Edge Systems course stone would serve you well. This is used to reprofile the blade if you want to change the bevel or repair damaged edge. This setup is also inexpensive. If you got a grinder that will cost you, cause you will need a slow speed one. then you have got to get the right grinding wheels. I despise clamp type systems, too cumbersome. This is especially true for large blades, which you state will make up a lot of what you sharpen. I have used most all of them and I think that the two previously mentioned items will not only help get you a sharp edge but will also preserve the amount of material removed. Take it for what it's worth.
 
If budget is no object, the TORMEK grinder is the best. My next choice is EdgePro.
 
Tormek is a heavy duty stone wheel sharpener.

http://www.tormek.com/indexieeng.htm

My grinder is a Sears Craftsman 2X42 belt with an 8" disk. You can put a 1" belt or a 2" belt on the grinder.

For sharpening, a 1x30 will work fine. I have my 2X42 because I use it to make knives as well.

The important thing with a grinder is to ensure that you can get the right grits in belts!!! I can't buy the belts I need in the local shops. I have to order them in.
To sharpen you need something liek a 320 grit belt and a 400 grit belt. A 220 is probably o.k. as well. To sharpen, you make a pass on the belt and dunk the blade in water. Make a pass, dunk. Feel a burr? Flip the knife over, pass and dunk again. Switch grits and do this again. Then buff or strop or whatever.

I still am developing my freehand skills as well. i think that freehanding is an important skill to know, and it comes in handy. i sharpen other people's knives at their places sometimes, and I don't drag my grinder with me! if someone told me they had a big batch of kitchen knives, a lawn mower blade and a coupel of machetes to sharpen, then I'd pack it along! Or jsut tell them to bring all of that over!

------------------
"Come What May..."
 
Back
Top