Best sharpening tool?

Keeper4560 · Aug 16, 2014

Hello All,

I have more recently been getting serious into collecting knives and I had a question.

I have this 8 dollar sharpening tool, which has a carbide and ceramic and a diamond tip to sharpen serrated edges.

I'm just wondering if this is something that is more beneficial or hurtful in the long run to my knives?

Is there anything suggested to maintain/sharpen my knives?

I have some CLP that I use on my knives to clean and keep them oiled.

Thanks for the help,

Alex

Ernie1980 · Aug 16, 2014

Do not use a pill through sharpener, it will tear up your edge! As you get more and more interested in knives you will want more tools to tinker with them. For a good starter sharpener I would recommend a Spyderco sharpmaker.

Garystl · Aug 16, 2014

I have several sharpening systems, but, in my opinion, for most "normal" people I think a Spyderco Sharpmaker would do a fine job for not too much money. Add the extra fine rods if you like.

Portman30-06 · Aug 16, 2014

yakantosh · Aug 16, 2014

I second Ernie about the sharpmaker. Its a great introductory sharpener, and has put a shaving edge on every knife I've run through it.

FordFan · Aug 16, 2014

Alex,
Welcome to BF. I agree with Ernie, get a SharpMaker and ditch the pull through sharpener. If you continue to be more serious about knives and what a more flexible, capable system look at the Wicked Edge. It's great but costly.

Once again, welcome.

n7titan · Aug 16, 2014

Stones and sandpaper are also low cost solutions but require more patience than mechanical sharpeners

collim1 · Aug 17, 2014

Please throw it away, and certainly don't use it on a knife that cost more than $10. Spyderco Sharpmaker or even one of the walmart Lanksy or Smith's angle guide sharpeners is light years ahead of those pull throughs.

I have a pretty cheap Smiths with the 20deg guides that will put a decent enough edge on most knives. It might not be a beautifully polished edge, but it at least holds a consistent angle.

Keeper4560 · Aug 17, 2014

Thanks for all the responses, the answer is pretty clear then

.

wtlj · Aug 17, 2014

Did anyone mention the Spyderco sharpmaker? 😜
I'm fairly new to blades and I listened to the masses on the sharpmaker also. I couldn't be happier with my purchase and it really does work excellent!

J-P SAN · Aug 17, 2014

wtlj said:
Did anyone mention the Spyderco sharpmaker? &#55357;&#56860;
I'm fairly new to blades and I listened to the masses on the sharpmaker also. I couldn't be happier with my purchase and it really does work excellent!

How do you deal with bevels that are greater than 40* inclusive?

wtlj · Aug 17, 2014

J-P SAN said:
How do you deal with bevels that are greater than 40* inclusive?

I don't, not yet at least.

cakes072185 · Aug 17, 2014

J-P SAN said:
How do you deal with bevels that are greater than 40* inclusive?

I bought the Congress Stones. They helped. And then once I got truly serious I bought the Wicked Edge pro pack one, then upgraded bit by bit to more than pro pack 2.

Edit: the most important thing to me? Strops. I bought 2 large strops and whether using the sharpmaker or wicked edge, or just touching up, I find they matter the most.

HeavyHanded · Aug 17, 2014

Ultimately you will be best served with some sort of bench stone and operating freehand. No other strategy has as full a range of utility.

The carbide scraper can be made to operate at a pretty high level of usefulness provided it can be disassembled and trued up. The ERU takes this approach and makes a very serviceable edge. I was able to get strong results on a $6 carbide scraper as well, but not without addressing the manufacturing flaws. One would have to buy a cheap combination stone to make this happen anyway, so is possible to fix the carbide scraper somewhat, and have a stone to practice on afterward.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...micrographs)?highlight=dollar+carbide+scraper

Whatever means, use inexpensive cutlery to practice on, do not attempt on your good tools until you have gained some proficiency.

cakes072185 · Aug 17, 2014

Just did this with my Wicked Edge. I mean this thing is amazing. I work in construction and I put this edge on all my knives. The only thing I change in the angle. 45 degrees for work knives, 32 degrees for my "Sunday" knives. Guys at work even say 'Why would you waste your time and spend hours sharpening it that good for work?' Here's why: After initial sharpening, it only takes me maybe 30 min to bring it back (barring severe damage). I can put the knife back in the exact same spot, and set the paddles to the exact same angle, and start from 400 grit. And 30 min is by no means rushing either. I just wish I picked it up a while ago.