Best small wheels?

REK Knives

REK Knives

Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Apr 3, 2011
Messages
5,801
I have had some generic ones from USA knife maker supply for years but I've noticed that they don't seem as true as they could be w/ vibrations coming from them and translating to my knife blade (especially if I'm dragging across a length of steel). What are the smoothest/most true small wheels you guys have found for KMG style small wheel arms (w/ the larger bearings)?
 
Are these small wheel the solid metal type? OR, do they have a rubber covering? The solid metal wheels I've used just don't grind as smooth as I like so I changed to rubber coated wheels.
 
Ken H> said:
Are these small wheel the solid metal type? OR, do they have a rubber covering? The solid metal wheels I've used just don't grind as smooth as I like so I changed to rubber coated wheels.
Click to expand...
Well I have the rubber ones from usa knife maker but I was wondering if there are any out there that are better made and more smooth.
 
Richard338 said:
Matt Gregory posted this link recently.
https://www.knifegrinderparts.com/collections/all
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'm just thinking straight steel ones won't give me as good of a finish as rubber ones so wasn't sure if someone has compared different small wheels or has experience with either and finishes.

Natlek said:
Why you just not turn them in the lathe .........?
Click to expand...

I don't have a lathe unfortunately, and the smallest ones don't have any rubber to spare. The larger ones would work though probably
 
You can get hard and medium rubber rod in a variety of diameters from places like MSC and machinist supplies with a pre-drilled center hole in many sizes. Just make a steel shaft to fit the bearings and slip it in with some epoxy in the hole and you are ready to go. My machinist buddy makes his that way for a couple bucks each. I have told him he should make four piece sets and sell them but he says he is too busy.
 
I use steel wheels 13-25 mm. They can dig in a little if you don't watch it. On the other hand there's no prouding of the tang.
 
I have some from both KMG and Knife Grinder Parts and like both. I use the Knife Grinder parts ones for rough grinding (they don't have a rubber coating) and the KMG ones for finish work.
I've been using them for about 5 years now and they're still running true.
 
I tend to overheat and burn out the bearings; not running variable speed. So I'm very careful to minimize my grinding time with small wheels.
Any hints on keeping those bearing alive? Any hints on removing and replacing bearings? I found that dunking them in water was a bad thing.
 
kbright said:
I tend to overheat and burn out the bearings; not running variable speed. So I'm very careful to minimize my grinding time with small wheels.
Any hints on keeping those bearing alive? Any hints on removing and replacing bearings? I found that dunking them in water was a bad thing.
Click to expand...
Getting a vfd would be the very next thing I would save for! Otherwise, maybe opening them up and repacking with high temp high quality grease would help
 
kbright said:
I tend to overheat and burn out the bearings; not running variable speed. So I'm very careful to minimize my grinding time with small wheels.
Any hints on keeping those bearing alive? Any hints on removing and replacing bearings? I found that dunking them in water was a bad thing.
Click to expand...
What kind of bearing you use ? For extra high speed bearing with metal shield are better solution not the one with rubber seal .
 
This is my 1 inch small wheel for a KMG. The bearings are labeled R6RS BL. I had a previous small wheel heat up and melt the black glue holding the rubber on the spindle.
Replacements are available on Amazon, but I'm not sure how to pull this off the shaft that it's pressed onto. Clamp it and hit the center shaft with a drift?

D34yZrg.jpg

UEcb18F.jpg
 
I use a KMG setup similar to the last pic with skateboard wheels. All the way from the 8mm rod that fits the bearings to superglued rubber band
and every manner of rubber air line. and fuel tubing all work fine. My favorite - 8mm rod covered with superglued rubber band. Time on wheels
6, 7, 10 years-- you get the idea.
Ken.
 
kbright said:
Replacements are available on Amazon, but I'm not sure how to pull this off the shaft that it's pressed onto. Clamp it and hit the center shaft with a drift?
Click to expand...
There are tools for that, I think they are called bearing pullers. I have one that has three prongs that are hinged and a bolt in the center that you use to apply pressure. Using a drift and a hammer should work, probably best to support the inner bearing race vs just clamping the outer race.
 
kbright said:
I tend to overheat and burn out the bearings; not running variable speed. So I'm very careful to minimize my grinding time with small wheels.
Any hints on keeping those bearing alive? Any hints on removing and replacing bearings? I found that dunking them in water was a bad thing.
Click to expand...
One more note .Be sure that you use bearing with metal cage . For example 8 x 22 mm bearing with metal cage can go to 20.000 rpm at ambient temperature .Same bearing with plastic cage can handle only about 2500 rpm ......
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top