Best source for info on how to pin handles on a full tang knife.

[Walking Man]

I was at a knife show not too long ago, and I bought some micarta and pins from a knifemaker supply person, whom I won't mention out of respect. He wasn't at ALL helpful, I asked him for a book, he didn't have anything, and his explanation was just unintelligable. :grumpy:
So, I don't care, I need it simple, and clear. I don't care if it's a book, video, or a knife supply company (or all of the above) that can give me simple step-by-step processes of how to pin a full tang knife handles onto the tang over the phone. Although, I think I would prefer a book. I'd prefer a source that shows me a variety of ways also, like screws, the traditional three pins, how to do fancy pins, and small multi-pins, and maybe some techniques on how to epoxy also. And while I don't need it right away, maybe something that also covers bolstered, screwed, and unscrewed.
And a good source for a KNOWLEDGEable knife supply company would really do it for me also.
Also, I'd like this source, if possible to be able to give me instructions how to do with using only the simplest of tools, I'll break down and buy a cheap drill press if I have to, but I don't want to spend a ton of money on power tools yet. I have a dremmel, files, a hand drill and other very basic tools.
Thanks.

 

[blgoode]

more than getting the holes drilled and the pin choice, how do you plan to shape the handles once there cut out?

This is a good place to learn so stick around....
let us know what you had in mind to use when you bought the handle material and we can go from there. Its pretty simple but cutting and shaping is 80% of the work

 

[Walking Man]

more than getting the holes drilled and the pin choice, how do you plan to shape the handles once there cut out?

This is a good place to learn so stick around....
let us know what you had in mind to use when you bought the handle material and we can go from there. Its pretty simple but cutting and shaping is 80% of the work

Well, I have a dremmel and sandpaper. I'm not really all that worried about shaping. I'm sure your laughing at me right now, but I'm going to start by replacing the handles of an old kitchen knife, and the handles are pretty straight and boring. :yawn:

 

[STR]

The first knife I ever made was a bowie style in Votech in the 10th grade. For pins I used a toilet tank float bowl rod. It was solid brass and about 1/4" in diameter. It worked great with some solid oak handle scales.

I would say that first of all keep in mind that a knife is a tool that simply needs a handle. This isn't rocket science but there are various techniques and tips you can learn. My take on a handle is to keep it simple. Don't get all caught up in dolling it up and taking away the practicality of it. This is one of the reasons I love Bob Dozier's work. His handles don't look all that complicated but hold one of his knives. Suddenly it is an extension of your hand. I would recommend making your handle good looking but don't over extend yourself by getting in over your head.

Micarta, in my experience is not the first choice for a beginner to use. I'm not saying you are a beginner and I don't know but Micarta is quite easy to mar up and many of the slabs already have flawed finishes so they can be particularly troublesome at times to make look finished and nice. Not to mention that it is highly recommended that you have a respirator when working with it. From my experience with it, it splits very easy, is quite sensitive to drill pressure, especially upon the exit out the other end and just when you think you have your knife handle finished as you want it you find another flaw in the Micarta. Just my take and why I never use it. I really respect the guys that do though.

I like stag and buffalo horn best but work a lot with lignum vitae wood also which is my favorite wood.

Now for your question since I've wasted so much time on my opinion.

First draw the design of the handle you want on some paper after tracing the knife tang and all. Experiment with several and find the one you like. Trace that onto your scales or slabs once selected.

Next make sure the inner surfaces of the slabs are smooth and lay flat so they match up perfectly.

Here is where some makers differ. Some prefer to do all the shaping and rough work after the handle is on and some prefer to get that out of the way first. I have done both ways and both work fine IMO.

For pins I have used about anything you can imagine. Brass rods work as I said earlier. These can be bought at local Lowes stores or Hobby Lobby stores. Main thing on drilling the holes is to make sure they are as straight as possible. You can also make some very attractive pins from 10 gauge copper wire. These are extremely mallable and easy to work.

Regardless of what you use here is how I do it. Again some of these guys here may not agree with my methods but I get the job done and I've been doing this a long time.

I usually drill the tang of the blade first. Then epoxy the first slab or scale in place and let it set. Then I use the tang holes as my guide to drill through that slab on the knife after the epoxy has set up. I then epoxy the second slab and let that set usually in my wood vise on my work bench with enough pressure to hold it until it sets up. I also usually roughen the metal surface with a diamond burr right before gluing just as overkill but I'm the overkill king. If you don't have a diamond some course sand paper may do the trick.

Once the second scale is in place and set up you already have you holes drilled and marked on the other side so flip it and use those as your guide. Now all your holes are drilled and you are ready for pinning.

How you pin is up to you. Some like cutlers rivets. I hate em. First off they require different size holes and I've never had much luck with them. Just an effort in frustration in my opinion.

Some like using a punch and ball peen hammer to squish the heads of the pins out to set them in place and then sand them and blend them down to a fine polish that matches the feel of the handle and if you were using something other than micarta I'd suggest this, but micarta splits very easy in my experience as I said. Your case may require some predrilled holes to counter sink a formby type screw down rivet that is less stressful to the scale you have chosen.

You can use a copper wire, brazing rod, aluminum rod or some such mallable metal and try to be very careful using a punch with a slightly bigger head than the pin to get the heads flattened out enough to cause retention and then sand. Personally I like using a med and then a fine 3M Cratex wheel for the final finish on my pins but again I don't use Micarta. I think that about covers what I can help you with. I hope it helps some.

STR

 

[Walking Man]

STR, Yes, you are correct, Beginner = Me. Thanks.
Thank you very much for your time. I will have a lot of fun doing this. I didn't even think to glue the handles on first.

 

[STR]

If you really want to do another overkill step coat your pins in epoxy before sliding them in place.

Yes, I have a motto in my shop that goes like this. "EPOXY IS MY FRIEND!" :thumbup:

Just keep in mind using that Micarta that one false slip with the ball peen or the punch can make an otherwise good day a real bad one. Take your time remove all distractions and tell the kids and the wife to leave you alone for a while. Once the pins are in and set it is just a matter of making them flush with the handle and polishing everything up and that is another big watch area when you buff. Buffers are notorious for serious accidents. Be very careful that it does not grab your project out of your hand and throw it back at ya in a bad way. I usually prefer to use my dremmel for all polish work over my bench model buffer. Sure it takes five times longer but it is much safer.

Also wear your safety glasses and no lose sleeves or clothing in the shop and if your hair is long tie it back. When sanding that micarta at the least wear a mask of some kind.

Oh, and show us your handy work when finished.

 

[miden]

Walking Man,
I am quite new to this wonderful game as well.
The advice you have been given so far is great however, somebody directed me to a couple of very helpful sites too.
Try
http://www.engnath.com/
It is the site of the late. great, unselfish Bob Engnath. You will find a wealth of info for the new maker.
Don Fogg also has some good tips, something of a philosopher but then it seems that most of us are, or would like to be.
Good luck