Best steel for a Noob?

C

Chewy1

Joined
Jun 5, 2006
Messages
1,564
Hello

I've been trying to read up on different steels. According to what I've learned, the A2 (BRKT) and the VG10 (Fallkniven) blades that I've already obtained are fairly easy to sharpen. I'm wondering what other types of steel and/or manufacturers I should look at for a knife that's both easy to sharpen and holds it for a good while.
 
good Heat treatment on 1095 all my current fixed blades are in 1095 I am new to the hobby having started this summer (and already spent way too much money). I find 1095 the best so far to sharpen easily.
 
Thank you. I've heard good things about 1095, too.

Mainly, I'm looking at the steel used for folding knives now. My fixed knife fascination is on hold until I hook up with a new EDC. I've been asking a lot of questions, but haven't focused much on the steel involved on folders.

For example, I've heard good things about Queen's D2, but not on ease of sharpening. Likewise, Fallkniven's 3G, but not on ease of sharpening.

Here's the rub, I really have no confidence in my sharpening. I do convex my knives, and I think that makes it easier for me to get shaving sharp results, but again, it might be due to the steel involved.
 
ats34, 154cm, a2, and quality 440 are all easy to sharpen and will hold a good edge.

s30v takes a bit longer to sharpen.

you shouldnt think that when a steel is labeled "difficult to sharpen" that you cannot sharpen it. using the same technique, it just may take a little longer.
 
I hear a lot of stories about S30V and D-2 being hard to sharpen. I'll admit they take a little longer and a little more effort, but I don't mind sharpening them at all. And they hold an edge better than any other steels I've ever used. :):)

All of my "carry" folders now are either D-2 or CPM D-2 or S30V. To me, at least, it's well worth the extra 5-10 minutes of sharpening time to have a blade that holds an edge so well. :thumbup:
 
Spyderco's VG-10 would be a great place to start.

Delica 4
Endura 4
Caly 3

All would make a great EDC, and have VG-10. This steel will take a razor edge very fast, and some how also hold it for a while. YMMV
 
ATS-34 or carbon steels (1095, 5160, Opinel's "Acier au Carbone").

With carbon steels, you also learn knife care quite fast.
 
A good place to start learning about different steels and their attributes is the Steel FAQ sticky by Joe Talmadge. You will find it on the Maintenance, Tinkering and Embellishment Forum.
 
IMO, steel takes second place to grind style, when it comes to ease of sharpening. I find a cheap Mora knife, with it's simple Scandinavian grind to be very easy to sharpen. They generally come in either 1095 or 12C27/12C27mod. Both perfectly good steels, run at reasonable hardnesses.

Opinel knives are also rather easy to sharpen, due to relatively soft, often carbon, steel, full grinds, and very thin edge bevels.

Moras and Opinels aren't the only knives with these characteristics. They are just common, decent users, and inexpensive.

Knives with thick edge bevels, a very common affliction with modern cutlery, I find to often be more difficult to sharpen satisfactorily. Combine this characteristic with a moderns super steel, the result is even more difficulty.
 
Hi Chewy,

I think that Knarfeng's suggestion for "edge-u-cation" is the place to start. Joe Talmadge is an expert with a good understanding of knives and steels and an easily understood teaching style..

A bunch of steel names can be very confusing.

Material (steel and it's alloys), edge geometries and hardness are the main areas that you will want to try to understand before you try to get into "which steel is better or best?".

Good steel "A" with a poor geometry and poor heat treat is not going to perform. It is balance of of those aspects that make a steel perform.

The areas of mportance for "knife junky's" will be:

Edge retention - how long a given edge will stay sharp.

Corrosion resistance - how long the given steel will resist rusting (keep in mind that the edge rusts the fastest because it's exposed on both sides of a very thin cross section).

Toughness - the materials ability to withstand impact and torsion.

Next is what we do with the material:

Edge Geometry makes as big a difference in "ease of sharpening" as does hardness.

Geneally speaking a steel that holds it's edge well, will be harder to sharpen. Both dulling and sharpening of an edge is removing molecules of steel. The steel cannot tell one angle from another.
w
In the world of knives, there is much to garner interest and much depth. Materials, designs, histories, etc.

Human evolution can be paralleled to the "edge". We learned how to sharpen a rock 40,000 years ago. It took us 10,000 years before we learned how to fasten that sharp rock to a stick. Now we make nitrogen steels, powdered metals, phenomenal materials....all to make a better edge. Have fun.

sal
 
Not a believer in evolution, but what you say is true about geometry, etc. I have convexed all of my edges as I find that technique allows me to get a blade shaving sharp very easily. My main concern is whether that technique will work for all steels...given enough time and wet/dry sandpaper. I might pick up a diamond plate just to help things move along, but I plan to stay convexed.
 
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