Best Steel for Utilily/Camp?

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Nov 19, 2008
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My first post here. With the wealth of experience and knowledge on this forum, I would like to get a recommendation for a utility/camp knife, and some info on different blade steels. I hesitate to call what I need a "survival" application, but many of those types of knives do seem to fit my need. I have both a Lone Wolf Loveless Semi-Skinner and Utility, but they are discontinued, and frankly- they seem too beautiful to beat up.

The use will be mainly for backpacking and camping, although I like to carry around the yard for chore duties as well. Blade length of 4.5-6 or 7 inches would be ideal. I want a knife that can chop small limbs if needed, or dig, but may also be used around camp for food. I am considering a RAT-7 (or 6), but am confused on the two steel options available. Would D2 hold up better than 1095? D2 is higher priced.

I also like the Doug Ritter RSK MK3, which is a Benchmade knife to his specs in S30V steel. I am wanting to stay with a G10 handle. I also like the Chris Reeves knives (A2 steel), but I can't justify the cost for the application. How about the Benchmade Nimravus?

Thanks for your input.
 
My first post here. With the wealth of experience and knowledge on this forum, I would like to get a recommendation for a utility/camp knife, and some info on different blade steels. I hesitate to call what I need a "survival" application, but many of those types of knives do seem to fit my need. I have both a Lone Wolf Loveless Semi-Skinner and Utility, but they are discontinued, and frankly- they seem too beautiful to beat up.

The use will be mainly for backpacking and camping, although I like to carry around the yard for chore duties as well. Blade length of 4.5-6 or 7 inches would be ideal. I want a knife that can chop small limbs if needed, or dig, but may also be used around camp for food. I am considering a RAT-7 (or 6), but am confused on the two steel options available. Would D2 hold up better than 1095? D2 is higher priced.

I also like the Doug Ritter RSK MK3, which is a Benchmade knife to his specs in S30V steel. I am wanting to stay with a G10 handle. I also like the Chris Reeves knives (A2 steel), but I can't justify the cost for the application. How about the Benchmade Nimravus?

Thanks for your input.

First off, welcome to the forum!

You may benefit from similar discussions found on this and other forums. It's a very common topic with many differing viewpoints - so, there's a lot of information available.

Personally, I think your search parallels the same quest that introduced me to the vast world of knives... hopefully you'll find the same to be true for yourself. ;)

In response particular to your inquiry, the RAT-7 in 1095 is better suited for utility/survival work than the D2 version. Though both are carbon steels, 1095 is considerably tougher than D2 and is, therefore, less likely to chip or fracture than D2. D2 is a harder steel which, while allowing for better edge retention, also makes itself prone to breaking or chipping. All in all, I'd recommend staying away from D2 for all-around/utility/survival applications. 1095 is a kind of standard among carbon steel knives and performs well. I would also recommend the 5160 steel at Ranger Knives - specifically the Ready Detachment 7".

S30V is a great steel too; so, the MK3 is a nice option. IMO, I think there are many other (more preferable) options to A2 steel, but some might disagree. The Nimravus is another nice knife; however, for your purposes, I'd give the RAT-7 preference.

If I may suggest some other knives to consider, I would first recommend the A1 from Fallkniven. Their laminated VG-10 steels are, IMO, as good as it gets when it comes to survival/all-around use.

The RC-6 is a knife which many here would also recommend.


Hope it helps.

D.


EDIT: D2 generally costs more since it is harder for manufacturers to work with the harder steel - not as easy to sharpen, shape, grind, etc... also harder on the machines... I think...
 
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Thanks for the info. That answers my question about the steels. I like the Fallknivens, but prefer the G10 on the Rats. I wish Fallkniven made a G10. Seems like a trade off for either the nice satinless blade, or the G10 handle. I wonder if the MK3 is worth the 80 extra bucks to address both those issues. Again, thanks for the input.
 
Bark River A2-Tool Steel, 154CM, VG-10, INFI, any high-carbon... And yes, D2 does hold up better than 1095 in my experience, although is not 100% stainless. CPM-D2 is even better...
 
In my experience, D-2 beats 1095, and A-2 in every way for every application.

While it's true that D-2 will not take the abuse that 1095 will, if you have your head screwed on straight, you'll never break a D-2 blade. 1095 won't hold an edge half as well, and in a survival situation, the last thing you need is to be sharpening your knife every day or two.

There's a very good reason why D-2 is more expensive. S30V is roughly equal to D-2 in performance.
 
While it's true that D-2 will not take the abuse that 1095 will, if you have your head screwed on straight, you'll never break a D-2 blade. 1095 won't hold an edge half as well, and in a survival situation, the last thing you need is to be sharpening your knife every day or two.

D2 is definitely one of my favorite blade steels and has been for years, but I've never found that I had to sharpen any good 1095 blade "every day or two". :cool:
BTW, I like D2 for use in lengths only up to about 4" or so.
 
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It is almost hard to buy a bad knife these days (given a little research anyway). For what you want, I would avoid S30V even more than D2- both are more for edge holding than chopping. A well heat treated 1095 is a good blade. Most people seem quite happy with Bark River's A2 as well.

If you want to spend the money, Busse and Swamp Rat are great knives if you can find one that you want. Fehrman also makes a good sturdy knife. And then there are the makers on this forum that will give you exactly what you want for the same (and sometimes even less!) price as the upper-tier production knives.

Before you decide, take a look at the Maker's For Sale forum. This site is a wealth of knowledge- I've learned (and spent) more than I could've imagined when I first got here!
 
1095 works excellent as a camp/utility blade. And I've sharpened it with just about anything, it doesn't take long.

Peter
 
I like the Fallknivens, but prefer the G10 on the Rats. I wish Fallkniven made a G10. Seems like a trade off for either the nice satinless blade, or the G10 handle.

I believe the RATs have micarta handles. I also wish Fallkniven would make an A1 with micarta or G-10 handles; although, their Kraton and Thermorun isn't supposed to be too bad either. One of these days, I hope to buy an A1 blade blank and make micarta handles for it.


In my experience, D-2 beats 1095, and A-2 in every way for every application.

While it's true that D-2 will not take the abuse that 1095 will, if you have your head screwed on straight, you'll never break a D-2 blade. 1095 won't hold an edge half as well, and in a survival situation, the last thing you need is to be sharpening your knife every day or two.



In most applications, I would agree; however, for chopping and light prying, D2 is too brittle. In a survival situation, the last thing you want is a broken or chipped blade - sharpening it often won't negate its functionality.
 
And attempting to chop any quantity of wood with a 6 or 7-inch blade will quickly tire you out....a lightweight folding saw is much better suited to that task. Save your blade for the important stuff....
 
Busse's INFI or Swamp rats SR101. Both top the charts in durability.
 
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Ontario rats have mircata handles and the blade comes in 1095 or D2. The ratcutlery products, which surpass F&F of the Ontario rats, are exclusively 1095. The handle material can be had in 2 color variations of mircata or orange G10. The RC-4 is one heck of a knife for survival.

Fallkniven are great. Bark River Knife and Tool are excellent and have a variety of steels and models suitable for camp knife.

RatCutlery, Fallkniven and Bark River would be the big three that I would go to for a camp blade! Nothing wrong with the bussekin either
 
1095 works excellent as a camp/utility blade. And I've sharpened it with just about anything, it doesn't take long.

Peter



i agree..i had a D2 steel chip of off my blade once,,and it just fell maybe a total of 4 ft from a table,,stick with the 1095 for field use ..or even A2
 
I push this one alot, but you may want to look at the Scarpyard Line. My Scrapper 6 with a 6" SR-77 blade and Resiprenr C Grip make an Excellent Camp and Utility Knife!!! One of my most used knives by far...

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Personally I prefer a Stainless like VG10 for a camp knife. When cutting food and all around ease of maintenance it works for me. Fallkniven is my choice.

Sometimes I like a carbon machete and a stainless folder like a SAK or multitool.

I hate coatings but one of my favorite camp knives has a coating the Outcast. What can you do?
 
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