best steel to learn forging with?

Joined
Jul 27, 1999
Messages
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Well, I'm fixing to get my forge running and start trying to pound a blade out instead of grinding
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The main reason I'm getting away from stainless is an interest in differential hardening and possibly clay coating and water quenching blades. So, given an interest in temper lines, what is the cheapest/easiest/hardest to screw up steel to start with? I'm kinda leaning to either 5160 or 1084 or maybe O1. I have access to a HT oven, but would prefer to do the HT from the forge, with a minimum of stuff, so I can do it at home.

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I love my country! I just don't trust my government!
 
TJ, 5160 is available free almost everywhere that junk cars are found. Leaf springs and coils springs are 5160. Wayne Goddard uses Honda car coil springs for a consistant steel. They are easy to edge quench for a nice temper line. Try dipping in ferric cloride for a even nicer line. 5160 is what most ABS members pass their Journeyman test with as it holds an edge and is tough enough for the 90 degree flex test. O1 is easy too but not so easy to find without getting out the wallet. 52100 is a great performer, easy to find free and makes a great knife but heattreating is more involved. Bruce Bump
 
That's easy it is 5160 by far. O1 is easy as long as you don't over heat it during forging or heattreating. And the forging part 1084 is easy where you have a problem with 1084 is the heattreat. You have got to get 1084 from critical to below 1000d deg in under 1sec and with 5160 you have about 6sec. That a lone makes 5160 easyer to work with. But 5160 is very forgiving in the temps you use in forging and heattreat. If you go a little high it will still make a good blade, maybe not the best but still good. It is the best steel for mistakes

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-Greg Johnson
ICQ#4236341

 
Ive had good luck with all the 10-- steels. 5160 is very forgiving and easy to heat treat but John Fitch tells me that hes gotten some that is full of trash, inclusions whatever you want to call it.

W-2 forges very easy and is fairly simple to heat treat, problem is finding a steady source.

 
I would eliminate the O1 as an easy steel because of price and the fact that the time/temp. chart for heat treating O1 is about 10 seconds. A temper line is very hard to do on O1. For the clay temper, the 10XX, 5160, and 52100 are all good blades for a temper line. One thing I have learned though is to make sure that the steel has been normalized at least twice and then annealed. If the steel is hard to start with, it will be hard to show the temper line. For the annealing, I submerge in lime, vermiculite, or wood ashes. An added precaution would be to stick a piece of hot steel in the medium first to warm it up before you put the blade in. Let it cool to the touch and it is ready to drill and grind. Before you apply the clay, mix a light slurry of the clay and coat the whole blade (a verry, verry light coat). After it dries, apply a light coat (1/8" to 3/16") and let dry. Apply the clay until there is about 3/8" of dried clay in the area that you want to remain soft. A scalloped or uneven edge looks better to me but I don't usually get it unless I really try. Some bladesmiths will draw the back while edge is submerged in water to make sure it is soft. I check it with a file and if the blade was annealed, it will be cut easily with a file. I read at one time that it is best to quench on the rising temp. If you set your oven at about 1550 deg, and take it out the moment it reaches that temp., the edge will be getting hot before the clay covered steel and the hot clay will cause the covered steel to cool slow enough to remain soft. The light coating on the blade will help the blade cool faster by not having a layer of boiling gases to insulate it.
Didn't really mean to write a book but I couldn't say part without the rest.

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Ray Kirk
www.tah-usa.net/raker
 
Right on about 5160. O-1 is acceptable as well. hot torched auto coil springs or leaf springs are GREAT!!! Hell, even rebar bits will work just to practice hammering/handling technique. Some of the best forging sessions I've had involved recycling an otherwise useless junked leaf spring into an edge-holding creation!

-Redleg out.

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"Blessed is the Lord my rock, who trains my hands for war, and my fingers for battle..." excerpted from Psalms 144.
 
5160 til you get your feet wet then switch to 1084 or 52100 (unless you pay attention to the way Ray Kirk & some others do 52100 it will eat your lunch). 5160 is the best to learn on and in it's cheap form, OTS (old truck springs)you can learn on pocket change.


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old pete
 
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