Best Strop? Material? Makers?

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Feb 2, 2018
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Hello All,

I am curious what everyone thinks is the best material to use as a strop? Currently I am using a untreated leather belt and it works alright but am on a progression to get a better polished edge.

I see a lot of people talking about Stropman strops, knives plus strop. Also I see a lot about cbn emulsions and other similar high end compounds.

Essentially I just want to get the most for my money, am I better off getting a strop like the stropman and using his compounds? Should I get a set of strops for my KME and use cbn? Should I just use denim and get some compounds?

What say ye?
 
Have a couple of strops, for the best bang for the buck, it's a knife plus strop. It came pre loaded with green compound a couple of years ago and is still working perfect for me.
 
Lots of things can work. I prefer a basswood block and add diamond or cbn compound. Why: I like the hard backing with compound as it's like having a high-grit stone that only lightly abrades your edges, and avoids rounding them.

For more aggressive stropping action: I like the CKTG Richmond base plus the nano cloth strop. It's the same hard backing principle, but adds the nano cloth which is a great host for compound, and provides more aggressive abrasion of metal.
 
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I find my edge is near perfect off the ceramics so anything more than bare leather tends to be too aggressive if I'm not careful.

Just did this with raw leather from a very old local shoe/boo repair sho. and treated it with that neatsfoot compound. Smooth side and hairy. Used the paddle from my strop man Strop.

I'm thinking a knives plus strop next if anything. I've heard so many great reviews.
Or getting .5 micron paste for this strop is another option.

There are many options. I don't need a strop but I do like it for a pit stop before re-sharpening.

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An on line acquaintance who is all about stropping and shaving razors and super fast edge resharpening for woodworking . . .
and he doesn't use it much if at all . . .
told me that the ultimate strop material . . . is . . .
are you sitting down ?
( and I'm not kidding )
: human skin.
yeah that's gross. He knows and he was serious.
So there you go.

Me . . . ? I'm happy with a 8,000 water stone as the final edge maker. I suppose there are better edges but hair whittling is good enough for me.
 
I use Kangaroo leather strops and I make my own and I have also used the ones sold on the KME site as well,Kangaroo leather is fairly abrasion resistant and works very well on a guided system because the leather is thinner,you'll find leather that is thicker has more give to it when your stropping and you don't want that on a guided system because the leather can compress and wrap around the edge and cu the leather.
I also purchased some cordovan leather witch is from a very small area from a horse hind end and is very very durable and has a grain that is around 8 to 10k in grit.

It was also mentioned in this thread someone purchased a strop loaded with green compound and what have to consider there is what kind of steel will you be stropping green compound is going to useless against S110v for sure and other higher wear resistant steels,if you are going to purchase emulsions Ken Schwartz has the best hands down he put's a much higher concentrate of CBN and Diamond then any other also don't waste your money on sprays as you waste a lot.I'm putting a link into Kens facebook and it has his phone number on the page I'm linking as well tell him the steels you are going to be working with and what grit you stop at,the CBN is good and very cost effective the mono diamond is a bit cheaper then the poly diamond if I remember correctly,the difference between poly and mono is this mono diamond is flat like slabs and will stay sharper longer but will not cut as fast where as poly has more facet's to or edge's is another way to say it and it will cut faster but will also dull faster because of it because the fine edge are not as thick and stable as the mono's flat slab so you have a trade off.

The strops and emulsions are the same as KME sell's but you get a lot emulsion from Ken you get 1oz for 60 bucks for the CBN from Ken Ken also has Kangaroo trops and you get more bang for your buck buying his emulsion.

https://www.facebook.com/ken.schwartz.984/about?lst=100003248825433:100001212185481:1519885297
 
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The Washboard plate I use is the best thing I've tried when it comes to using a honing compound applied to a surface, the link is in my signature line below. It can be used with just about any existing compound (pastes not so much) or the honing compound I make for it, which can handle any steel out there.

For plain leather used on a straight razor I'd recommend one of the better horsehide strops.

Type of compound should match what you're trying to do. Dico makes good compounds, Flexcut Gold is a great product. If working on higher Vanadium content steels you're better off with CbN, diamond, or skip right over the traditional strop in favor of diamond lapping films on a hard backing.

For any other leather, I'd use veg tanned leather and case it per these great instructions from member Stitchawl:
---------------------------------
Step by step:
1. Wet the leather. No need to soak it for any length of time. Running it under the tap for a second or two, front and back, is enough.
2. VERY IMPORTANT - let the leather dry for a while. Before you wet it it was a light tan color. Water darkened it a lot. Let it dry until it's about half-way back to its original color. At THAT point it will be almost as squishy as modeling clay.
3. Use a large diameter rolling pin, the heavier the better. Marble pastry pins are great for this, but even a piece of 3-4" PCV pipe will work. Now start rolling on the smooth side of the leather. Roll from end to end evenly, bearing down on the roller. Do this for 4-5 minutes, not just one minute. This will firm up the leather. If you are going to use this for a bare leather strop, roll it for 10-15 minutes. The rolling will force more silicates to migrate to the top of the leather.
4. Let it dry naturally, then glue to a backing or use as a hanging strop.

Keep in mind that any natural oil... ANY oil... is going to soften the leather. Makes no difference if it's Lexol or Olive oil. Lexol is more compatible with leather. Olive oil won't hurt it. But both will soften the leather... Soooo... if you really want a good firm strop, but need to put some sort of strop conditioner on it, dab it on a finger tip and rub it out well. Don't paint it on with a brush, or rub it on with a saturated cloth, or pour it on and rub away the excess. None of the above will harm the leather, but they will significantly soften the leather more than is needed to preserve it. The strop conditioner I use on my grandfathers old hanging strop has the consistency of thicker Vaseline, and I use less than a pea-size for the entire strop once a year. My grandfather used it every day as did my dad. I'm guessing that this stop is about 75 years old... and the leather looks brand new.


Stitchawl

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