best technique for sharpening a mora??

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Mar 22, 2006
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just weondering how you folks go about it....and what angle you use...I'm looking to shapen up my stainless clipper I tied using the bevel techinique from the ragweed sight but that didn't turn out so hot...
 
I've never done anything but match the original factory bevel, preferrably on a flat stone. Comes back to hair popping sharp in no time every time. The ease of resharpening is one of the reasons my nine year old son prefers Scandi grind knives.

Might try convexing one on my belt sander some day though, just for shucks and grins.:D
 
I used my Sharpmaker to create a 15 degree micro bevel on one Mora, I used the mousepad/sandpaper trick to convex another. I like the convex results much better and will use this method exclusively in the future.
 
I lay the entire bevel flat on my stone and sharpen the whole thing. Lay the knife flat on the stone and push down on the bevel until it is flat, that's your angle. Take your time with it and you will have scary sharp in a few minutes. If you put a micro bevel on it then you either have to sharpen it off again or repeat the micro bevel. I don't micro bevel any of my Mora's anymore.

There is no one way to sharpen. You do what you want to get the results you desire. I sharpen this way because I think it is easier for me and the knives get extremely sharp. Mac
 
On moras I follow the factory bevel,unless I plan on cutting tougher materials I usually don't use a microbevel.
 
I made a sharpening board; don't have it in front of me, but its about 3" x 8". With carpet tape I adhered 400 grit sandpaper on one side and 600 on the other. I sharpen with the factory bevel and it works great.
 
I lay the entire bevel flat on my stone and sharpen the whole thing. Lay the knife flat on the stone and push down on the bevel until it is flat, that's your angle. Take your time with it and you will have scary sharp in a few minutes. If you put a micro bevel on it then you either have to sharpen it off again or repeat the micro bevel. I don't micro bevel any of my Mora's anymore.

There is no one way to sharpen. You do what you want to get the results you desire. I sharpen this way because I think it is easier for me and the knives get extremely sharp. Mac

:thumbup:
Don't have a mora, but I picked up an old Bruseletto Geilo at a swap meet.. Pretty beat up, and since I'd never tried sharpening a Scandi grind style knife, I thought I'd give it a try...
Do exactly what Pict said, as I learned through trial and error, and I now have an incredibly sharp field knife! It took me several hous as the steel is pretty hard and it was pretty beat up, but doing it the way Pict describes is the easiest way to sharpen a Scandi grind!
 
I triied preesing te bevel flat against the stone and I seemd to scratch up the bllade ALOT is this normal or am I doing something wrong....I always thought the bevel was the slop[ing portion of the blade that runs from the spine to the edge..Is this correct??? I'd really like to get this right so any help would be beneficial....What type of stones do you use and...Do you strop after sharpening???? or for touchups?? Thanks
 
The bevel on a standard Mora is the sloping bit that runs from the edge back towards the spine and is only about a quarter of an inch or so wide. If you rest the blade on this bevel, the spine will be raised off the stone by around 12 degrees or so.
I personally use japanese waterstones to sharpen this kind of blade though any good quality benchstone will see you ok. Best to have at least a couple of different grits (800/1200).
As a strop i use a piece of old leather belt with some metal polish rubbed into it but you can also substitute the belt for a piece of cardboard similar to that used on the back of a notebook.
 
thank you...Is it normal to scratch up the bevel alot when sharpening??? and do you strive for a wire edge that is then sharpened away???or os ot enough to touch it up as you use it??
 
It is normal for the bevel to be scratched but with practice it should start to look uniformally scratched. Then with finer stones and stropping it will start to look quite polished.
I do look for a slight burr along one edge before turning over and working the other side when sharpening on the stones. Its best not to build up too big a burr though. I get rid of the burr through the process of using finer stones and using less weight on the stroke and finally the strop.
There are other techniques and views on raising a burr and on how best to remove it that are worth reading once you get the basics going. Plenty of folks here more knowledgeable than me when it comes down to fine details:D
Once you have established a good edge on a Mora you should be able to keep touching it up on a charged strop quite well for some time unless the edge actually gets damaged.
No need to try for a burr whilst stropping though, just a light stoke alternating sides.
 
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