Best Watch, under $400, $300, or $200

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Dec 3, 2002
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In these three catagories, whats the best watch to buy?


Under $400
Under $300
Under $200
 
Under $200 -- Luminox Marine Series (you can find it online for $170 if you look).
 
Under $200? A used Fortis Flieger ;) At that price, you will get the leather band but, you can always upgrade it later!
 
any of the Citizen Eco-drives.

Never needs winding, no batteries and accurate as hell
 
"Best" is a very relative thing. What's best for me is probably not best for you.

With that said, a general concept of "best" would likely require:

Function- Luminous face that is easy to read and attached to a reliable and accurate movement that easily conveys all the information the wearer desires at a glance. Water resistance sufficient for moderate use in/around water.

Quality- Overall standard of design and construction at least above average compared to similarly priced competition, preferably offering features that are rare at the price point.

Style- This one is more subjective than the others, but if you are looking for a single "best watch" then styling should probably be fairly conservative and equally at home with dress clothes and casual stuff. Individual taste is the most important factor in this, but most would probably agree that a massive digital plastic thing doesn't look too hot with a suit.

Also, I don't like quartz wathces, so everything I recommend is going to be mechanical. Something made in-house gets my vote over a similar item with an everyday ETA movement, as well.

Under $200
Selection is pretty small here.

I vote Seiko Automatic w/ 7S26 movement. Price varies widely, but $150 is a good average. The 7S26 is a great little piece of engineering, not fancy or pretty but dead reliable and capable of good accuracy once it selles in. Case and band quality is comparable to other Seiko products, which means quite good. Nobody will confuse them with an Omega, but the quality is respectable.

These come in a variety of case styles, some of which are rather cartoonish. There are others that have more of an understated look that works a whole lot better. Unlike other low-priced mechanicals (Sandoz and Invica, for example) the Seikos are unique don't look like simple Rolex clones.


Under $300 and Under $400

No question in my mind, #1 with a bullet in this price range is the Poljot 3133 chronograph series. It is (in my opinion) almost obscenely superior to anything even remotely near this price range.

The quality of these watches is fantastic, in my experience they can stand shoulder to shoulder with recent production Omega and Rolex and give up nothing in terms of fit and finish. Screwed crown, water resistant pushers, rotating bezel that is smooth like glass, and screw down diplay back raise the feature content into another level as well. I once had a watch dealer offer to buy mine (unsolicited) off my wrist for several times more than they actually cost.

The 3133 movement is reliable and accurate, and has actually been proposed as the next source of movements for the Swiss watch industry since ETA announced that they will start limiting their production. Accuracy is generally good, and chronometric performance is possible if the watch is well adjusted. Nice looking movement, as well.

There are literally dozens of styles available with this movement, from very traditional pilot's watches to high polish dress watches to modern sports watches. Not very many divers, but a few. If you are one of the Ti fans out there you can get that, too. There is almost certainly a 3133 that will fit your personal style. I like the Cosmos myself.

Many watch manufacturers like to bang the drum about having some connection with aviation history or being the "choice of professional pilots/elite commandos/James Bond" or some similar copy. Most of it is trash, but in Poljot's case it is true. They were the first watch in space (Yuri Gagarin wore a Poljot Sturmanskie) and for the Soviet years were the issue watches for the Russian military.

The only drawback is that the 3133 is a hand wound movement, but this is a minor one compared to all the advantages that the product offers. I actually prefer it, and won't wear an auto if I have a hand wind available.

You can get a mechanical chronograph with quality that easily rivals an Omega for under three hundred dollars. If there is any other watch that offers such a screaming value I haven't seen it.
 
Great thread!

I'd never heard of Poljot. (obviously a newbie)

Either of you who recommended Poljot know of a reliable dealer from which to buy a Poljot?
 
Originally posted by rdangerer
Great thread!

I'd never heard of Poljot.

Either of you who recommended Poljot know of a reliable dealer from which to buy a Poljot?

Check out the Poljot forum at watchuseek.com. Lots of info about them, & other Russian watches as well.

A respected dealer of Poljot & othter Russian brands is Russian Souvenirs. They have an excellent reputation on the Poljot forum, and also sell watches on ebay.

This, and the watch in my sig, is my Poljot Aviator automatic, with a Swiss ETA 2824-2 movement. Now that I've adjusted it, it runs about -2 to +5 seconds per day. :D I almost never take it off, & if I want to wear another watch, I wear the other watch on my right hand. It's sort of odd, years ago I never wore a watch, and now I frequently wear two at the same time, and it seems perfectly natural. I suppose that's the watch equivalent of carrying 2 or more knives at once. :p

Buy a Poljot and enjoy it. Many of their manual wind watches can be had for $100 or less, and autos in the $150-250 range.

Frank

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Thebest source that I know of for Poljot is www.russiansouvenirs.com

They have a huge selection, reasonable prices, and among the best customer service that I've ever encountered. They do ship from Moscow, but I've never had a problem.

They also have a domestic branch in that ships from Virginia at www.poljot.us

The selection is not quite as large but things arrive quicker.

They usually have several ebay auctions running that offer extra good deals. I've seen brand new Poljot chronos sell for around $160, and they are the same as the retail ones, even including the same warranty.
 
Great info guys.

Now, to decide if I can reprogram my 39yr old brain to wind a chronograph daily.

Fishbulb... the knife in your Avatar is about what I'm after. I'm assuming that's a manual also... which model is that? Looks like an "Aviator Chronograph" but can't find one with the numeral "12" on face.


(The high quality, low cost imitation of the IWC Flieger Chrono remains elusive... :( )
 
But the double tap.... not so elusive. How'd that happen?


So might as well turn it into a question:

How's the quality of the metal bracelets from Poljot?
 
The one in my avatar is a Poljot Cosmos, for some reason (mistake) it is listed on Russian Souveniers as being a Poljot "Glashutte style" even though it doesn't look like any Glashutte that I've ever seen. The page for it can be found here.

I think it is a very attractive watch, probably best described as a slight modernization of the classic pilot's chrono. As is usually the case, the pictures don't do it justice.

I prefer a brown leather strap, but from what I've heard the quality of Poljot bracelets is supposed to be quite good, and not real big and clunky like some other manufacturers.
 
Originally posted by rdangerer
How's the quality of the metal bracelets from Poljot?

I picked up a bracelet from Russian Souvenirs.com, for about $40. The quality is very good: solid links, a securely locking clasp, comfortable fit [no hair pulling], and the Poljot logo on the clasp. The end links aren't solid, but for ~$40, I'm more than pleased. I'd recommend it without hesitation.

Frank

Here's a photo of the bracelet on my Aviator. Please note, both the watch and bracelet were beadblast finished when I got them, and I polished them up. Much nicer that way, I think.

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Another question for those who have lived with a manual winder for a while...

Let's assume I only want to wear my manual winder Poljot on the weekends.

Any harm in letting a manual winder run down on Monday or Tuesday, then rewind and run a couple days on weekend?

I.e., is there really anything to the issue of keeping the movement moving and the lubrication moving and spread out... and not letting the watch rest... ?
 
This should answer some of your Questions.Click here . I ordered a watch last night after reading the manual this morning, I'm glad I ordered a dress model. I can't see it taking the everyday abuse my Seiko goes through.
 
How big is your wrist? I have the same watch and small wrists and thought a metal band wouldn't work. But from the look of your pics you might have small wrists as the strap goes directly down rather than out and down.


Could you show a post of the back of the bracelet.


Paul
 
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