Best way to clean a Shapton GlassStone 6000 ?

rpttrsn

rpttrsn

Joined
Nov 1, 2006
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What do you use to clean yours? My shapton GlassStone has become porous. Will not sharpen worth a dam any more. I'm not sure what had happened to cause this. Surface no longer smooth. I might have used liquid bartenders friend or simple green to remove the steel from the surface as water did not work well to clean. I think the stone is shot. I believe one of these products destroyed the stone. I just have to chalk this up to a lesson learned.
 
I've never cleaned one... I lap it on a diamond stone... keeps it clean (and flat).

Usually after use, a good rinse under the faucet keeps it fairly clean.

I'd try lapping it if you can... see if that refreshes the surface.
 
Spartan00 said:
Never put chemicals on a water stone . Nagura or lap it to clean.
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What he said ^^

You probably ruined the stone. If it's still gritty after lapping then it will probably need to be replaced.
 
Jason B. said:
What he said ^^

You probably ruined the stone. If it's still gritty after lapping then it will probably need to be replaced.
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I have lapped it on a DMT course dia. plate. Seemed better until I tried to use it. Like I said "leason learned"
 
Picture of the Shapton 6000. Hope you can make out the porous area.
P1030574-vi.jpg

P1030570-vi.jpg
 
It doesn't look like it's porous all the way through... I'd lap it some more... see if you can get to fresh material.
 
Doesn't look good...

My Naniwa Snow White was all cracked up so I decided to see what happens when you soak stones that you shouldn't soak. The next day the surface felt like sand and looked like your picture. I was lucky enough to be able to test it out on a stone that was already toast.
 
How long has it been ? That frown face in Japanese on the package is what happens when. You use chemicals .

I'd try lapping it down a little bit
 
Can you see dark spots sideways of the stone ? As in can you tell if it seeped all the way through?
 
Spartan00 said:
Can you see dark spots sideways of the stone ? As in can you tell if it seeped all the way through?
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Hard to tell. I will try to lap it again. The first time I lapped it the stone looked good until I sprayed a little water on it and tried touching up a blade. Pours showed up again and looked almost as bad as when I started. Black marks occurred way to soon. After a few strokes the surface was rough again.
Thanks for all the replies. Maybe tomorrow I will hit the stone again. Nothing to loose at this point. How dumb was I?
 
rpttrsn said:
...Nothing to loose at this point. How dumb was I?
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Hi,
:) it happens to everyone, you get lost in thoughts and whoops

Where did you get the stone, I've heard stories about "outstanding customer service" from some sellers, offering replacements or big discounts, might be worth an email to check ..

also, is the slurry also gritty? have you considered using the slurry to load a strop or a piece of wood or another stone?
 
bucketstove said:
Hi,
:) it happens to everyone, you get lost in thoughts and whoops

Where did you get the stone, I've heard stories about "outstanding customer service" from some sellers, offering replacements or big discounts, might be worth an email to check ..

also, is the slurry also gritty? have you considered using the slurry to load a strop or a piece of wood or another stone?
Click to expand...

I would not ask for any compensation or discount due to my error. It's not a mfg. fault. I could try the slurry on a piece of wood. Good suggestion. Thanks
Ron
 
Well today I removed 0.015 from the stone and it looks much better. It took about 2 hours as that is some hard sh*t. I started out lapping with my DMT Diq Sharp 120 Micron plate. Slow removing stone. The stone also made the DMT diamond plate less aggrisive. This was not going very well so used 3M Silicone Carbide mesh paper. Seemed to go a bit faster but still a bit slow. Been into it for about 1 hour now. Pulled out Gator Grit 50 Red Resin Paper and it was removing material faster. As my fingers wer getting sore running the stone on the paper (metal plate below the paper) I cut a piece to fit my electric palm sander. Marked the Shapton with pencil lines and went at it. This turned out to remove the surface on the stone faster then the other methods. Made sure that I kept the surface flat during the sanding process. Checked often with a straight edge.
Will never use any chemicals on a natural stone again to clean it.
Can't see any more pours in the stone and it is smooth again.

P1030576-vi.jpg
 
rpttrsn said:
Well today I removed 0.015 from the stone and it looks much better.
...
Can't see any more pours in the stone and it is smooth again.
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Cool. I thought from your picture it looked salvageable.

Sounds like you did it right... should work for many knives! :thumbup:
 
cbwx34 said:
Cool. I thought from your picture it looked salvageable.

Sounds like you did it right... should work for many knives! :thumbup:
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Appreciate you responding to this post as it modivated me to see if it could be salvageable.
Thanks,
Ron
 
Sounds great that you managed to salvage the stone.

FWIW, when I wanted clean my glass stone, I used scouring powder and worked it with a finger to remove marks.
 
To the original question about how people keep their stones clean, this is what I do: I have Shapton Pros in 1000, 2000, and 5000 and what I do is rinse it under clean running water and scrub with my fingertips to get most of the black off, and then I dress it lightly with an Ice Bear synthetic nagura which removes any remaining marks, then rinse off again, pat dry with a towel, and leave it to dry in its storage box. I picked up the nagura at my local woodworking shop for about $13. Seems to work great for that.
 
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