Best way to cut stabilized blocks into scales?

Fletch Helical

Fletch Helical

Joined
Sep 29, 2009
Messages
1,614
What do you guys usually use to take a block and make a set of scales out of it? This is actually going to be my first foray into making a set of scales and the only tool I have on hand is my HF 4x6, which from what I can tell so far can't cut a block squarely. I have access to, but don't own a table saw and a wood cutting bandsaw as well. My first thought would be that a table saw with a fence in place would be the best option, assuming the blade can make the height of the block. Would it be alright using the blade on a stabilized block though?

I would think using a bandsaw would be a less accurate tool than a table saw. So I'm coming to you guys for "what's the best tool for the job?"
 
I use a table saw for cutting scales. If all you have is a horizontal/vertical bandsaw then cut it and square it up on the sander. Or if you have one use the mill to square it up. You can do it with what you have even if you have to put a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and flatten it by hand. Stabilized wood it really not any more difficult to work than non.
 
I have a fence on my wood cutting band saw and can cut scales from 1/8" on up.Bout all I use is stabilized wood.
Stan
 
A bandsaw with a fence is how I cut mine. After the bandsaw I run them through my drum sander to even them up.

You lose less wood when cutting on a bandsaw compared to a table saw. Be careful no matter what you you cut with.

If all else fails, box em up and send them to me and I will cut them for you.
 
Burl Source said:
If all else fails, box em up and send them to me and I will cut them for you.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the offer Mark, I should be alright. Besides I have a knife I'm trying to get done by Sunday. Unless you perfected that teleportation device I doubt I'll make the deadline :D
 
The offer stands for future stuff. You've been a loyal customer and I would rather cut the wood for you than to have you do something that could be dangerous. If there are any cabinet shops around you, sometimes you can get them to make a quick cut or two for you. If you use a bandsaw without a fence, you can just clamp a 2x4 to the table to act as a guide.

USE A PUSH STICK! Unless you have a couple extra fingers you want to get rid of.
 
Well I went over to my fathers who has a wood band saw after he told me it cuts pretty straight. Turns out I would've been just as well off to use mine. I measured off a piece 3/8 ran my cuts and I find out that I now have 2 scales that are 3/8 on one side and about 1/4 on the other. So I now have a set of wedge shaped scales.... Can I still use them like that or should they be asa squared off as possible? I mean when I drill the holes for the Corby's will it be a problem if they're wedge shaped or will it work out alright? My plan was to have the thicker part towards the spine and go from there. But if I tape them together to drill them both at the same time will I have any problems?
 
I think you're going to find when it's all said and done that 1/4" is sufficiently thick enough. I would slap those scales on the blade, and sand down the 3/8" side to match the 1/4" side. Powertools can do that, sometimes, if you're inexperienced with the tool. The beauty of doing things by hand is that it's much more difficult to "take off too much" when you're doing it by hand.
Spend a couple bucks on a pack or two of course sandpaper, and the moment it begins to dull, replace it with a new sheet of sandpaper. Might sound wasteful, but for only 2 bucks you can move very fast by hand w/ a new sheet.
 
I RARELY use scales that are more than 1/4" thick. That's a fat handle & over time the extra weight and overall bulkyness of a handle thicker than 1/4" scales is cumbersome.
 
The thickness won't be where the problem comes in. Drilling a counterbore seat on a handle that is sitting at a slight angle ( due to the wedge shape) will make the alignment off.

Sand them down to straight and use them as a pair of 1/4" scales.

Now, to pick up where Mark left off....
Use a push stick when cutting blocks on a table saw. While many of us use a band saw bare handed, it can take finger tips off easily,too. On the table saw, I use two push sticks. One to hold the block tight to the rip fence, and one to push it through the blade.

To avoid having two greatly unequal scales, mark the centerline all the way down a block, and make sure that is where the cut is going. Of course, nothing will be straight if the fence and table aren't square to the blade. Sadly, few people take the time to set up a saw properly ( remember all those pages in the manual about using a square).

Another trick is to use a re-sawing blade on your band saw. A 1/4" wide blade won't cut a straight line on a 6" long block.
 
Alright this is probably a stupid question but it won't be the first one I've asked... How do you go about sanding them flat? If they're wedge shaped and I lay them on a piece of paper and sand it's still going to retain it's wedge shape isn't it? Seems I would just have a really flat side on a still wedge shaped piece of wood wouldn't I?
 
draw a straight line across the edge of the scale on the thick side to match the 1/4" side .Put the wood in a vise with the 1/4 edge even with the vise jaws and the line even with the jaws on the other side . File that sucker until your file is riding on the vise jaws .
 
The table on the HF 4x6 is pretty bad, I have replaced mine with a nice steel table and you can cut really straight. You can cut some plywood and then shim to square it to the blade to make a temp table that will cut square. I use a 12 tpi for cutting scales and such.

If you have a wedge I mark my thickness all the way arround the edge from the good side and then file the wedge down and then go to sandpaper, easier to get flat.
 
Well the crisis seems to have been averted. Since I cut the scales from opposite sides of the block I had 2 flat surfaces to work with, I wound up running them through the planer a few times and got them to be both 1/4" all the way around. Now I just have to make sure I don't screw them up drilling the holes for the Corbys.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top