Best way to finish unstabilized Buckeye Burl?

G

GrizzlyBear

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Dec 5, 2009
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I picked up a set of beautiful Buckeye burl scales for a knife order I have. They are unstabilized and I've been looking for recommendations on how to finish them properly.

All info I find is for stabilized or suggesting that the person send it out to be stabilized.

I've read that it's quite porous and I'm thinking that perhaps a CA glue finish might be nice.

What all do you folks suggest?
buckeye.jpg
 
Ca would be the way to go, it would take many, many coats, or ive hand sanded to 1500 grit after shaping and put minwax poly wipe , on it several times you have to let it dry each coat
 
Get a good size bottle of thin CA and place the slabs on a sheet of waxed paper. Soak that side well and let dry overnight. Repeat for the other side. Keep turning and soaking until both sides are soaked full and there is a coating of dried resin. Sand off the excess and repeat one more time. Now they are stabilized enough to use. Unstabilized, they won't hold up to use.

When the handle is mounted and shaped, sand down to 1500-2000 and apply a final coat of CA. Sand it off and give the handle a buff with a soft cloth and some carnuba. It will shine.
 
I didn't realize they needed so much. I guess I should have looked for stabilized scales first.

Thanks Stacy and BA for the recommendations.

Do I need to order a bottle of CA glue for this, or will regular thin superglue (found locally) work too? Or, will it be more cost effective based on the amount needed to get a larger bottle?
 
A bottle would be better,if you have a large hobby store around close they should have it.Or you can order from a supply house
Stan
 
We have Hobby Lobby here in Texas and they keep it in the wooden model section.
Stan
 
Found thin, medium, and thick. Bought a thin (last one) and a medium. Was 4.99 a bottle and used their 40% off coupon. Now I get to start 'stabilizing' :) Wonder if freezer paper will work as well as wax paper...forgot to get some while I was in town.
 
It fills the wood between the fibers, as well as any voids. You don't leave any on the surface when you sand the handle. The CA seals everything nicely.
 
Thanks, I've been working on it since my last post. Apply, spread, and let soak, then flip, and repeat. Then do edges. I've about got to where it's sitting on the surface and very little is soaking in.
 
I'm a pen turner and the water thin CA works well. It also might pay off to continue to fill as you sand and shape if you fill a little and hit it with accelerator as you go you dont have to wait as long and then you can keep the surface stable as you shape. just an extra thought.
 
Thanks for the tip. Once the scales are on the blade, when you apply the CA if any gets on the steel can it just be wiped off quickly?
 
Acetone will clean off any where you don't want it.

As I said in my post, let the CA soak in and cure overnight between flips. Taking the time to do it right pays off....rushing will show. It takes several days to a week to do it right. The final result can look like fine marble on buckeye burl.

I do not recommend accelerator. It can cause clouding in the wood surface. Sometimes it doesn't show up until later. It is best to allow the CA to polymerize on its own. Depth of penetration is far greater that way.
 
Ah, well...hmmm. I kept adding more and flipping because it seemed like it was taking it in pretty quickly and drying. Hope I didn't ruin them.
 
No problems most likely, but too much at a time can make them heat up and crack. Just flood one side until it is covered, let it soak in and cure for at least several hours...repeat...repeat....repeat.
 
Stacy, Quick question...Are 9/16" thick scales too thick to do this with?

- Thanks.
 
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