best way to get a nice shiny finish on nepalese kukri ?

meako

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Sep 4, 2006
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A work colleague brought a kukri back from his trip to base camp on Everest.
Purchsaed in Katmandhu for 6 aussie dollars just to make the guy stop pestering.
He asked me how to get it all nice n shiny.
At work there is a bench grinder with wire wheel & a buffing wheel.
Would this be OK?
Any advice appreciated
as its not mine I wouldn't want to damge it.
cheers.
 
Hi Meako,

First... If the khukuri in question has a lion head for a buttcap, i wouldnt bother putting this much/type of work into it. It is usually just a wall hanger.

The best way is to finish sand it down with 240grit and work up to about 400 grit.
You may need to use a file to remove deep scratches and such.
Then you are pretty much ready for the buffing wheel. I use the grey rouge, which it think is alum. oxide.
This usually puts a decent gloss on it.
For high shine and gloss i use the green rouge, which i think is chromium oxide.

One should be very, very careful when using a buffing wheel, especially with large knives.
A buffing wheel can yank the knife out of your hands and send it flying before you can utter a syllable of a word...it happens just that fast.

I cannot stress this fact enough....


Always wear eye protection.
If you've never used one before, get someone with experience to show you the subtleties.
Make sure the wheel spins towards you, you will usually be using the underside of the wheel depending on it's size.
This way if you catch the knife in the wheel it will be thrown away from you and not at you.
If you have to use the face on a larger wheel, make sure your feet or any appendages are out of the way of travel of the knife if you should lose control of it.
Never use the wheel in such a way that the knife will be thrown at you. Murphy will take over and you could be impaled.
Always buff with the cutting edge pointing in the same direction as the wheel is spinning. If you buff edge to, it WILL catch and rip it out of your hands. It is only temping fate to do so.

Apply rouge to the wheel and begin buffing lightly for a few minutes. This will warm the rouge and it will cut better. Then apply just enough pressure to polish. To remove any excess rouge, use the light touch again.

If the blade gets too hot, let it cool. It is possible to overbuff and create a skin of annealed metal on the edge.
It is also possible that overheating the blade could affect the temper, although it is nearly impossible to ruin the temper without scorching your hands badly. I never let the blade get so hot that i cannot touch it.

If you have more questions, post them up and we'll try to answer them!
 
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Thanks Karda you've given me more than enough info to get going with.Much appreciated.
He has used it to chop up some palm frond which he said it made short work of(they're tougher than they sound).
So definitely not a hanger. I sharpened it up for him just using a Lansky which was a bit laborious due to its large heavy blade.
Anyway I'll print you advice off & see what he wants to do.I'll try for some pics as well.
cheers
 
+1 about using eye protection! that is a must no matter what you use. I'd stay away from the wire brush myself. Do you got any pics. Karda pretty much covered it all though I think.
 
the wire wheel i always thought would be a too harsh & chrome paint ..tooo....err.... don't want appear rude .. fake.
thanks for all the input tho
will try to get pics up.
cheers
 
meako, i was sent 3 khuks earlier this year to restore the finish on and sharpen. i used some wheels that were a combination of scotchbrite and sandpaper or just scotchbrite. they worked great for putting a nice satin finish on the blades. i used an air powered die grinder to run the wheels on. here are the numbers that are on the wheels. google the numbers and you can find a place that sells them. 051144 / 80678 120 combi-s red combination wheel. 048001 / 05974 A-MEDIUM cpfb-s gold wheel.

i would not use paint :rolleyes:. that would look like crap.
 
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