Best way to loosen lock?

J

Jeeeen!

Joined
Aug 10, 2022
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Bought a used knife (giantmouse ace sonoma).
Wouldn't flip.
So I took it apart and cleaned everything, lubed with nano 10 oil. Put it back together and still, it won't open with the flipper, its very tight.
How would I loosen the lock on it, I tried pushing the opposite way but it doesn't seem to do much.
Also the screw on the pocket clip is stripped.
 
Without actually handling your knives, I can tell you from experience with framelocks its mostly these things:
- pivot too tight. Loosen all the way and see if it flips. If it does, slowly tighten until you get the desired action.
- bodyscrews too tight. Yes this can happen. Loosen then tighten little by little just like above.
- lockbar pressure preventing blade from flipping. Watch your finger placement as to not apply pressure to the lockbar, does it flip better? Is there a large amount of lock-stick when you try to disengage the lock? If yes, might want to send it back for them to bend...you can mess up your knife you keep bending it yourself.

There are other smaller reasons, which I'm sure my knifebros will point out; for me it's usually the above. Sometimes, the knife just needs breaking in...so keep flipping.

Hope this helps!
 
Dergyll said:
Without actually handling your knives, I can tell you from experience with framelocks its mostly these things:
- pivot too tight. Loosen all the way and see if it flips. If it does, slowly tighten until you get the desired action.
- bodyscrews too tight. Yes this can happen. Loosen then tighten little by little just like above.
- lockbar pressure preventing blade from flipping. Watch your finger placement as to not apply pressure to the lockbar, does it flip better? Is there a large amount of lock-stick when you try to disengage the lock? If yes, might want to send it back for them to bend...you can mess up your knife you keep bending it yourself.

There are other smaller reasons, which I'm sure my knifebros will point out; for me it's usually the above. Sometimes, the knife just needs breaking in...so keep flipping.

Hope this helps!
Click to expand...
It's not the pivot or body screws, I had them on loose and still very tight.
It has to be the lockbar.

I can't send it back, as it's 3rd hand.
 
I have no experience with that knife, and I don't know if this is the cause of your problem, but sometimes the detent divot in a blade has very crisp edges which holds the detent ball more snugly than one would prefer, and this makes it harder to open the knife. I've had this happen on a few different folders.

Unfortunately there is no simple fix. I solved the problem by drilling the detent divot all the way through, then hammering a piece of steel rod into the hole, then punching a more shallow divot in the end of the rod.

If what I described is the cause of your issue, tweaking the lock-bar won't help, it will only reduce the security of the lockup.
 
killgar said:
I have no experience with that knife, and I don't know if this is the cause of your problem, but sometimes the detent divot in a blade has very crisp edges which holds the detent ball more snugly than one would prefer, and this makes it harder to open the knife. I've had this happen on a few different folders.

Unfortunately there is no simple fix. I solved the problem by drilling the detent divot all the way through, then hammering a piece of steel rod into the hole, then punching a more shallow divot in the end of the rod.

If what I described is the cause of your issue, tweaking the lock-bar won't help, it will only reduce the security of the lockup.
Click to expand...
Wow, that is much further than what I'm willing to do to this knife.

I'm trying to bend the lackbar in the opposite direction, hopefully will reduce the pressure on the blade.
 
If it is what I described, it might be possible to "soften" the edges of the detent divot by wrapping some fine grit sandpaper around something with a rounded point a little smaller than the divot and twist it in the divot. If the crisp edges of the divot were slightly rounded over the blade should open easier.

But I would only recommend this if I knew that the divot edges were the issue.

In the case of my folders I wanted a shallower divot, so sanding wasn't enough.
 
killgar said:
If it is what I described, it might be possible to "soften" the edges of the detent divot by wrapping some fine grit sandpaper around something with a rounded point a little smaller than the divot and twist it in the divot. If the crisp edges of the divot were slightly rounded over the blade should open easier.

But I would only recommend this if I knew that the divot edges were the issue.

In the case of my folders I wanted a shallower divot, so sanding wasn't enough.
Click to expand...
Finally I got it.
The lockbar needed to bent the other way a bit.
She's working fine now.
 
killgar said:
If it is what I described, it might be possible to "soften" the edges of the detent divot by wrapping some fine grit sandpaper around something with a rounded point a little smaller than the divot and twist it in the divot. If the crisp edges of the divot were slightly rounded over the blade should open easier.

But I would only recommend this if I knew that the divot edges were the issue.

In the case of my folders I wanted a shallower divot, so sanding wasn't enough.
Click to expand...
Is detent divot the "dimple" on the side of the blade where the steel/ceramic ball on the liner lock fits in when the blade is closed?

If that's the case, I have some issue with my knife if I bend the liner lock too much to the right to make it tighter and more secure.

I am actually thinking about polishing the edge of the "dimple" to round it up a little so the ball on the liner can slip out easier to make it easy to flip the blade open.

I don't want to drill through the blade, I just want to like using an over sized drill bit to lightly rounding out the edge of the dimple to make it easier to slip the ball out.

My question is what kind of drill bit is hard enough? I know blade is very hard, my normal carbon steel bits are NOT going to do it. Instead of blindly buying, maybe you can have some suggestion.

Thanks
 
alan0354 said:
Is detent divot the "dimple" on the side of the blade where the steel/ceramic ball on the liner lock fits in when the blade is closed?

If that's the case, I have some issue with my knife if I bend the liner lock too much to the right to make it tighter and more secure.

I am actually thinking about polishing the edge of the "dimple" to round it up a little so the ball on the liner can slip out easier to make it easy to flip the blade open.

I don't want to drill through the blade, I just want to like using an over sized drill bit to lightly rounding out the edge of the dimple to make it easier to slip the ball out.

My question is what kind of drill bit is hard enough? I know blade is very hard, my normal carbon steel bits are NOT going to do it. Instead of blindly buying, maybe you can have some suggestion.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Yes, what I refer to as the "detent divot" is the "dimple" in the side of the blade.

Drilling a hardened blade requires a carbide drill bit. It's also best performed with a drill press. Carbide is harder than hardened steel but also brittle and a carbide bit can easily break if the bit is not held steady.

I buy all of my carbide bits from McMaster-Carr
 
Before you start drilling, try bending the lock bar out so it's applying less pressure to the blade. First you'll have to remove the over-travel plate. Then bend the bar in the opposite direction from the blade, past the straight position. Start out conservatively and see if it helps. It might take 2-3 attempts to get the pressure just right. If you go too far, you can always bend it back the other way.
 
Blade Lab said:
Before you start drilling, try bending the lock bar out so it's applying less pressure to the blade. First you'll have to remove the over-travel plate. Then bend the bar in the opposite direction from the blade, past the straight position. Start out conservatively and see if it helps. It might take 2-3 attempts to get the pressure just right. If you go too far, you can always bend it back the other way.
Click to expand...
I am trying to keep the pressure higher and use other ways to ease up the opening of the blade. It's safer to have a little more pressure of the liner lock.

Thanks
 
killgar said:
Drilling a hardened blade requires a carbide drill bit. It's also best performed with a drill press. Carbide is harder than hardened steel but also brittle and a carbide bit can easily break if the bit is not held steady.
Click to expand...
remember go slow, use cutting oil, safety glasses, and good clamps when setting up.
 
I never bought carbide drill bit, can anyone suggest me one. I looked, a lot of them are masonry. I never have to buy any before. They are very expensive and seems like they sell individually. This is the cheapest I find, it's #33
https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Americ...locphy=9032152&hvtargid=pla-817654931686&th=1

Also I found a set on ebay of 1mm to 6mm for $18.33:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/185418788357?hash=item2b2bd22e05:g:6qwAAOSw0kNieLAc&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA4E8U5pOtYqu9SuJ007sswUS9Um2ZNZZuConQFBWkAowtdiaYNCgnXIgSlxM+jWIuzXHAxmpZhz0F0y3oBW4toDM0YB4PKNw3epnYldpaH+6OXr8YLCQmqP7nkYWCq7zxtNF0ay/NSmgKDgKM+JRPmdfcM7+q67lQMgGicPvcjc73BQdU+6rmCbg0UAcWx6dHkASW+JFhky99sklQkCbp4rR9ouFe1HQkKUv3uiQTBKGix5U9Q6MZDRQwOxS/Dv1KXCy830pO1PkWqmJzh/vSULaV6+Tnk8RQ7XYsrSwjZDZe|tkp:BFBMrvGivJVh
Are these the right kind?

I am sure I can do better if I know more.

Thanks
 
Drilling just too much trouble and hard to get right. Try inserting a small, flat file (I use a diamond one) and filing down slowly (trying flipping often) the detent bump on lock bar. Blow out filing dust with compressed air (canned air for computers). I've done this many times with excellent results. Work slowly until it flips like you desire. Add a tiny drop of oil to bearing pivot when done. Remember, the detent bump holds the blade closed also on most knives of this type.



Please excuse shadows.
 
Last edited:
Rich S said:
Drilling just too much trouble and hard to get right. Try inserting a small, flat file (I use a diamond one) and filing down slowly (trying flipping often) the detent bump on lock bar. Blow out filing dust with compressed air (canned air for computers). I've done this many times with excellent results. Work slowly until it flips like you desire. Add a tiny drop of oil to bearing pivot when done. Remember, the detent bump holds the blade closed also on most knives of this type.



Please excuse shadows.
Click to expand...
I thought about this. I can easily take the knife apart and do that. BUT, a lot of them are ceramic ball, they are harder than steel!!!. You file like your way, don't you worry about scratching the liner and leave a mark?
 
Yes, I do occasionally scratch the liner, but never gets near the pivot bearings. For me (maybe no one else), I'd rather have a well functioning knife, perhaps with some not easily visible scratches on liner, than a knife that won't work. Just MHO.
 
I did it, it's EASY, I use Dramo with a conical stone tip, a few touches, look and a little more. Put the knife back and open like a DREAM. I just did it between cooking.
 
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