Best way to remove rust?

Joined
Dec 31, 2004
Messages
117
I don't mind a little encrustation, but when you've got some old carbon steel blades that are gettin' out of hand, do you have any favorite methods? I've heard of sticking the blade in an onion for several hours, among other homemade approaches.

Are chemical removers like De-Oxy-Does-It safe? What about the liquid gels?
 
Flitz polish works well. But, if you've got serious rust, you may need to use it several times as if to remove the rust in layers.
 
I use a wire wheel on a grinder. Very quick and thorough. Then use the polishing wheel if you don't like the brushed finish.

I lube/clean my blades with CLP which is available at most gun stores. It is the one used by the military and is like Rem-oil. It C-cleans, L-lubes, and P-protects. It will take off a light coating of rust and prevent it from coming back.
 
Gollnick said:
Flitz polish works well. But, if you've got serious rust, you may need to use it several times as if to remove the rust in layers.

I agree. Huge fan of flitz - works well almost everytime. Especially if you catch the rust early enough before it makes a deep pit.
 
Thanks for the info. Just touched up a couple of pen knives I've had for years. The blades were looking a little embarrassing. The Flitz worked great.
 
glad to hear it worked. i was going to chime in with a method that my marine buddy uses. he has flitz on a dremel buffing pad. i havent seen any corrosion withstand it.
 
"Never-dull", available at automotive stores works well and it is not as severe on the finish/patina on older knives. I have had good results with it. (example, if you're working on just a spot area) It doesn't leave a bright spot like a polish does.
David
 
On my old Schrades and even some of my own high carbon hand mades I have used the rust eraser sold by Smokey Mountain Knife works. It is pretty great on these and I have used it on S30V and other steels where they form surface rust on the bead blasted surface. It has worked successfully without notice on these cases for me.

They are the #UC135 in the catalog or web site. Pretty cheap too.

EDIT: I should have added that if this knife is a classy collector piece with a highly polished blade you won't want to use the rust eraser. It will scratch up the blade but on a user it actually blends the look to where it is not noticed. Also no scratches have been noticed by me when used on bead blasted finishes.
 
I had a Spyderco Police model, which had rusted shut. Rust on the handle, as well as rust on the blade. I figured, even if Flitz would have worked, on breaking the rust off, I'd have wanted it to be touched up by Spyderco anyways.

I called to confirm they'd look @ it, sent it in as a Repair request (not Warranty), and they knocked all of the rust off, polished up the handle (which was still pitted.. the rust had been attacking it for so long), and returned it to me in perfect working condition (not quite as pretty as original, as you can imagine).

So.. for those w/ rust issues, that's one solution, if your knife happens to be a Spyderco.
 
Indeed. I have used the Flitz/Dremel combo to restore old hard-rubber mouth pieces on estate pipes. Works like a charm.
 
Flitz is great to clean blades and bolsters. To keep Bone and Stag from drying out and cracking I use Mineral Oil and coat the handles. For rust prevention I use Silicone Spray(sprayed on a soft cloth then wipping the blades). :thumbup:

Blademan44.
 
AG Russell sells a little abrasive block called a rust remover. I tried it on my sister's kitchen knives and it removed rust like using an eraser.
 
baraqyal said:
I agree. Huge fan of flitz - works well almost everytime. Especially if you catch the rust early enough before it makes a deep pit.

Flitz! This is it!
 
If it is a serious problem and the knife is not some rare Bowie, I just put on the wire wheel of my grinder. Only takes a minute and leaves a nice brushed finish which you can polish up if like shiny.
 
Back
Top