Best way to sharpen knives

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Aug 26, 2006
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I was wondering if anyone could give me their opinion on what was the best way to sharpen knives. Growing up my Dad had crock sticks and I used them to sharpen all my knives, I really liked the crock sticks. However I have read a few threads here that people have said they were not impressed with the crock sticks and preffered the spyderco sharpmaker. Currently I am considering the Lansky crock sticks ( professional model ) or the Spyderco Sharpmaker. Let me know what you guys think, I really like to keep my knives razor sharp.
 
I'll cut to the chase, just get the Sharpmaker. It does a good job, quick setup, simple to use, and sharpens scissors as well as many other tools.
 
I have a Lansky and can get a decent edge using their Arkansas stone kit going down to ultra fine, but not as sharp as when a new knife arrives, i.e. can shave hair. Will the Sharpmaker be able to do this or am I just using the wrong technique with the Lansky? I have heard that it takes a special trick and looking at the Edge Pro system it is basically the same design, inferior stones I have no clue. Would like to be able to get a razor sharp edge with what I already have but if need be can sell the Lansky and replace it with a Sharpmaker. Thanks
 
I have both crock sticks and sharpmaker. I like them both. he sharpmaker is much more portable and convenient, but the longer "sticks" seem to do a slightly bettter job. Just MHO.
 
The crock sticks do a good job of adding a micro-bevel, but the fine rods are not as fine as the fine sharpmaker rods, and the UF sharpmaker rods are even finer still. Neither is great for doing reprofiling, but they're both good for doing edge maintanance and micro-bevelling.
 
2" x 72" grinder (slack belt portion) with a new 320 grit belt.

Power stropped on a 6" buffing wheel loaded with white polishing compound.
 
qwikkota said:
I have a Lansky and can get a decent edge using their Arkansas stone kit going down to ultra fine, but not as sharp as when a new knife arrives, i.e. can shave hair. Will the Sharpmaker be able to do this or am I just using the wrong technique with the Lansky? I have heard that it takes a special trick and looking at the Edge Pro system it is basically the same design, inferior stones I have no clue. Would like to be able to get a razor sharp edge with what I already have but if need be can sell the Lansky and replace it with a Sharpmaker. Thanks

Most of it boils down to technique. I had the sharpmaker for 2 years before I sat down and really put any time into it. I had to really spend some time with it before I got a newsprint pushcutting edge.


You can really put a nice edge on a knife with the sharpmaker but it seems that its not really the best at anything aside from sharpening recurves. But it does seem to be the best universal sharpener you can buy, especially for the investment.

You can go very very very far with a sharpmaker, especially after you have some trigger time but if you have certain specific needs that fall out of its static setup you'll see its limitations. Its not very good at reprofiling or doing angles other than 30/40 inclusive. The stones also become clogged quicker than other media. You can turn it into a bench stone but it isnt the greatest.

All that being said even after you master the sharpmaker you'll still come back and use it all the time. Its quick, easy and highly effective at what it does. If you are just getting into sharpening I really dont think you can go wrong with a sharpmaker and some very coarse hone for reprofiling. There are diamond rods for the sharpmaker but they seem to get critisized for not being as effective as one would like for reprofiling.
 
I was surfing the net this a.m. and blundered into a site called "Primitive Technology, Traditional Skills and Hand-Made Tools." Whew! Anyway, a fascinating site. The url to go directly to their gem about a home made blade guide for accurate sharpening is------- http://www.primitiveways.com/knife_sharpening_jig.html

There is also an extensive writeup on knife making techniques, heat treating, tempering, and so on using "shade tree" methods. Quite a site.
 
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