Recommendation? Best wooden scale protectant?

bandagedfingers

bandagedfingers

Joined
Feb 3, 2016
Messages
307
My custom wutang clan spyderco scales were looking pretty beat up. So I decided to sand and re finish them myself.

I lightly sanded all the way up to 3200cw and am pretty happy with the results so far.

I wanted to ask what's best to use before I just clear coating them with high end wood working varnish type clear coating stuff.IMG_20170727_232923-picsay.jpg



Please help and thanks Brad Cain.
 
I've refinished a couple of gunstocks with Tru-Oil with great results. It takes some time but after a dozen coats it yields that deep clear coat look.
You need to diversify your bonds.
 
If those are laminate, be careful what you put on them. Use the wrong oil finish and the glue that holds it together may degrade and the wood will delaminate. Results depend on what sort of glue is used in the laminate.
 
another vote for Tru-oil. Looks great and offers strong protection. There are many videos on how to apply it but I just use my fingers, rub in 6-8 coats, let dry and buff it.
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I use linseed oil (several applications over multiple days), or Ballistol on my wooden handles. Both are food save and bring out the shine of the wood nicely, while not sealing it completely (in my experience, if it is natural wood and not dymondwood etc. it needs to breathe).
 
silvaticus said:
I use linseed oil (several applications over multiple days), or Ballistol on my wooden handles.
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I justed wanted to mention to the OP, to not confuse linseed oil with boiled linseed oil. The latter is not food safe
 
Ruso said:
I justed wanted to mention to the OP, to not confuse linseed oil with boiled linseed oil. The latter is not food safe
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Thanks Ruso, that is correct. I use the stuff straight out of the grocery store. Takes longer to sink in, but it is pure linseed oil and nothing else (and people have been using it to preserve wood for centuries, fwiw)
 
I have a question about linseed oil. I have recently oiled some hardwood rods, for use as Philipino sticks. Can I varnish them as well? They are slightly greasy at the moment. I plan to leave them for a month, so the oil works all the way through and some of the excess evaporates off. Any suggestions?
 
Numbersman23 said:
I have a question about linseed oil. I have recently oiled some hardwood rods, for use as Philipino sticks. Can I varnish them as well? They are slightly greasy at the moment. I plan to leave them for a month, so the oil works all the way through and some of the excess evaporates off. Any suggestions?
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Lay them out in the sun for a few hours. The heat will expand the wood's pores & thin the oil, so it can absorb a little better. Smooth out any wet looking spots with a soft rag & repeat. You should be gtg then. In colder weather, I thin out lisneed oil with a little bit of turpentine.

I don't think you'll need to varnish them. Just add a very light coat of linseed oil when they look like they need it.
 
I have used linseed oil, and while it looks good, it takes a long time to dry. It also requires too many coats and is not especially water resistant. If water resistance is wanted, I seal with Watco and then follow with a wiping varnish, either Formby "Tung oil" or polyurethane. The Formby is not really Tung oil, but a wiping varnish and gives a shiny finish.
I don't know how this would work with the laminate you show a photo of. I would ask the maker you got it from before finishing.
I have carved Philipine garotte sticks out of Argentine Lignum Vitae, and finished with Watco and a satin wiping varnish. I tend to use the Watco as a sealer. This has worked well.
 
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