Bevel Grinding Question

Archer Here

Archer Here

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Nov 2, 2008
Messages
1,296
Hi Friends,
I have a knife making grinder with a 10" wheel to make bevels on my smaller swords and knives. As you can see in the picture below, some of my grinds are a lot bigger than that, and they swoop by the handle, as opposed to going straight up and out, due to making them with my angle grinder, which on a sword like this, can take me a while just grinding the bevel.

Does anybody know of a way to do this faster and still be able to keep that shape and size? Is there something I can purchase that would move this along. I've looked for more aggresive discs, but can't find them.

I appreciate your input.
Thanks, Chris


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First of all, great looking blade!

Personally I kind of like the grind you have on there, but it doesn't seem to be what you want.

Are you grinding these pre HT or post? If pre HT you could make the "straight line" with a file or a small hand held (1/2") electric belt sander. I have one of the 1/2" sanders and it loves to eat steel with a 60 grit on it. Go slow!!!

Either way it is going to be tough due to the radius of the grinding wheel you are using... I'm sure some of the other and MUCH more knowledgeable than I will show up soon.

Charlie
 
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Get a belt sander.... preferably a 2x72. If a KMG is too pricey for you.... I really love my Grizzly and it was only $365. Throw a 36grit on and lean into it.... you'll melt through a blade like that in no time flat. You'll have to touch up the plunge line by hand to get your effect. It would be great to get a cluse up of that area.

Rick

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2X72, 36 grit, files or a file guide to keep things straight, and back support for those big blades. Expenses initially that could save some time and maybe money down the line. Then just practice, sware, practice, and repeat. Good luck.
 
The question pertains to the plungline, right? I would think you could grind the blade on a faster grinder, and finish up the plungline afterward lime Magnussen says. I do that by carefully grinding the swoop in with and angle grinder, and lightly smoothing in the transition with a worn out belt on the grinder.

That is a superb blade by the way!

James
 
Thanks guys for your input. I have that same machine. You can see it here on my manufacturers page at Kult of Athena: http://www.kultofathena.com/scorpion.asp

I wasn't wanting to change my grind on my swords. The problem was to keep doing those grinds, it's taking a long time. I'll try using the 30 grit belt and see how that goes. I was looking for a diamond covered angle grinding disc. Anotherwords, something more aggressive other than my 40 grit discs that I get.

Thanks, Chris
 
I think I misunderstood you the first post, sorry. If I have it correct this time it is doable and quicker with the 36 grit belt but you would just need to practice it to get it down cleanly. A file guide will help shave time off the clean up and then setting that arc like grind is just your motion and pressure in making the passes on the grinder and practice to get them even on both sides.
 
This is the file guide I use for setting the plunge easier and keeping things more straight http://www.riversidemachine.net/item576493.ctlg

I had one made a little wider since I make some things that are a bit wide. It isn't cheap but it will last. Some people also use standard hardened tool steel guides which are MUCH cheaper though they may not last as long. I think you can find the non carbide ones at usaknifemakers. It save me a bit of time in cleaning up things.
 
I think they are all missing you query.

To get a curved and smooth plunge line ,just use a disc grinder. Start with as aggressive a grit as you deem necessary. 36 to 50 grit will remove a lot of metal fast, but will need to be cleaned up with a 100 grit disc before moving on.

A disc grinder is fast and can produce amazingly flat grinds on long blades and swords. You can build one for about $200, or buy a great one from Rob at Beaumont ( KMG).
 
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