Bevel Size Uneven

S

Scattergun2570

Joined
Apr 24, 2013
Messages
124
I noticed that the bevels on some knives are not the same size on each side of the blade. Is this indicative of someone improperly sharpening,or are some knives purposely sharpened this way?
 
Depends on the manufacturer and depends on the knife. A lot of production knives are hand ground, so you're not going to get perfect bevels.

Personally, I don't really care since my knives are all users. The first time I sharpen the knife, I even the bevels.
 
Happens on any and every knife out there at some point.
Im happy that I enjoy putting a 30 on my knives anyway.
 
Only knives I have seen with truly even bevels are the machine sharpened SAK models. Best I have gotten otherwise is pretty much even, or mostly even. Hand sharpened means exact precision is impossible.
 
There's no such thing as "perfect" when it comes to blade grinds (or anything else, for that matter).
 
The best examples of "different" that I have are some older Busse Basics. Deeper flat grind on one side, shallower convex grind on the other side.
 
Busse use to have Asymmetric Ground on some older models (Modified-INFI, Busse Basics, to mention one model line).

Pic. showing my Busse Combat Basic-11, in INFI, with Asymmetric Ground (Blade Show spesial offer only). If you see a Busse with such a grind on blade, we are not talking imperfection here. This is done by purpose.

From "The Busse Collector":
A type of cutting edge bevelling where one side of the cutting edge is steeply ground (say, 15 degrees), and the other side is much more obtusely ground (say, 45 degrees). The actual cutting edge is either left or right of center, depending on the wich side the steeper angle is on. It is considered a stronger edge less prone to damage (better for chopping). This edge was standard on the Basic series, the E-handle series, the Assault Shakers, and maybe more.

To find out more about Busse and Asymmetric Grinds:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/747170-Asymmetric-Edge-Resource-Thread

Hope this was usefull :)

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My Basic 7`s in M-INFI:

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When done deliberately it's almost always to alter the minimum angle of approach for one side of the knife. Basically, if you approach a target at an angle equal to or less than that of the edge angle you'll just slide over the surface. This alters how thin of a cut you can make on a given target. Put a thinner angle on one side and bulk up the angle on the other and while you sacrifice the versatility of the opposing face you do gain the ability to approach the cut at a shallower angle than the usual "1/2 the included edge angle" of a knife with matched bevels. If your knife was 20° per side (so a 40° included angle) you could make a cut at any angle greater than 20° on each side. If you took one side down to 15° and the other up to 25° you still have the 40° included angle and thusly equal durability, but now you can make cuts as low as >15° on one side. The drawback is that on the other side the shallowest you can go now is a hair over 25°. It's a tradeoff.
 
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