Beveling a D2 congress

M

Melancholoholic

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Jul 29, 2016
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So I'm working on a wonderful d2 small congress from knivesshipfree and am having, naturally, one hell of a time.

I don't mind the work, but I'm trying to set the bevels at about 15° and I'm having a hell of a time doing it without beveling my thumbs with it.

Any recommendations would be HUGELY appreciated 😊

P.S. 3/4 of the knives are a flat blade to a tip, only one has a curve, so fairly "easy" (lol) to work them quickly on the stone.

Also, do I want a double bevel for whittling? I've been doing it so far. The two largest blades are twins and one is still untouched.

Ty for any help!
 
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What kind of 1000/6000 stone?

You can get a 2-sided 400/1000 diamond stone for about $35 from CKTG.

A Norton Crystolon Coarse/Fine combo SiC stone will work too. Any SiC stone (Ace Hardware for example) would probably work for setting the initial bevel, and then you could refine it on your existing stone.

I spent a long time with little progress using standard Sharpmaker rods on a Queen D2 knife that needed a fair bit of thinning. Never was happy with it until I used a SiC stone to get it done and then polished it up with the Sharpmaker.
 
Melancholoholic said:
http://i.imgur.com/oZNHIvN.jpg

Before
http://m.imgur.com/RxAFLLy.jpg

After
http://m.imgur.com/PIbsMn4.jpg
Click to expand...

Based on the pics, it looks like you're doing an admirable job. Looks quite good so far. :thumbup:

As suggested already, if you're not already using it, a diamond hone is a big plus with Queen-made D2 blades; maybe a Coarse or Fine grit. A back & forth 'scrubbing' stroke on the hone is what I like to use when rebevelling blades like these (and I have several Queens in D2, for which I've already done this). I also like to use a bit of oil on diamond hones for these jobs, as it makes the work that much smoother (better control, less fatigue) and will also minimize clogging of the hone.

The small handles of such knives make big jobs like this more challenging (tougher to maintain a steady hold & angle); so, patient persistence is the key. Just keep doing what you're doing, but give yourself a chance to rest your hands when they need it, to keep the work from getting sloppy and error-prone. Don't be afraid to let some time pass between doing each blade; I have a Queen large stockman (3 blades) in D2 that got rebevelled over several months' time, only picking it up when I knew I was 'up' for tackling the next blade. Each session was maybe ~ 45 minutes - 1 hour per blade, using pocket-sized diamond hones at the time. The finished result was worth the wait. :)


David
 
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Definitely been taking my time lol. I spent about 1-2 hours on the first blade and can now (and have) shave my leg with it.

I'm 25 and a guitarist so the hand strength hasn't been an issue, but holding a 15° without literally beveling my thumbs as well has been. Been getting as much blood as steel on the stones lol. Well I'm flat broke so I'll just keep at it as I have been. The harder the work the greater the satisfaction, anyway, right?!

Tyvm for the tips on the diamond stones! I'll be getting one as soon as I'm able. For now.. back to the stone 😊
 
Definitely been taking my time lol. I spent about 1-2 hours on the first blade and can now (and have) shave my leg with it.

I'm 25 and a guitarist so the hand strength hasn't been an issue, but holding a 15° without literally beveling my thumbs as well has been. Been getting as much blood as steel on the stones lol. Well I'm flat broke so I'll just keep at it as I have been. The harder the work the greater the satisfaction, anyway, right?!

Tyvm for the tips on the diamond stones! I'll be getting one as soon as I'm able. For now.. back to the stone 😊
 
Melancholoholic said:
Definitely been taking my time lol. I spent about 1-2 hours on the first blade and can now (and have) shave my leg with it.

I'm 25 and a guitarist so the hand strength hasn't been an issue, but holding a 15° without literally beveling my thumbs as well has been. Been getting as much blood as steel on the stones lol. Well I'm flat broke so I'll just keep at it as I have been. The harder the work the greater the satisfaction, anyway, right?!

Tyvm for the tips on the diamond stones! I'll be getting one as soon as I'm able. For now.. back to the stone 😊
Click to expand...


If you do get around to picking up a diamond hone for this, you might look for a Coarse (~ 325 or so) diamond. For smaller blades, I often prefer and recommend a Fine diamond to do these jobs, as it reduces the risk of deeper, ugly scratches on the blade's side; they're impossible to hide on a small, polished blade. The lightest, incidental contact with diamond will leave obvious scratches. But based on your pics, it looks like you've got the angle controlled pretty well, and you might get away with using a Coarse diamond. I'd still 'break it in' on some expendable blades first, to get a feel for how it'll work, before attacking your better knives like this Northwoods. You could still utilize a 'Fine' diamond for this too (~ 600); it'll just take a bit longer than the Coarse, but should still work more efficiently than most other stones. As I mentioned earlier, a little bit of mineral oil on the hone also seems to afford a smoother sharpening stroke and better control, for me.


David
 
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