Big Camp Chopper

Joined
Oct 28, 1999
Messages
1,563
Just finished this one...it has a 9.75 in blade nearly 2" wide and 5/16" at the spine. It is flat ground and then convexed before the edge. Guard is stainless and it has black micarta grips. The guard and grip are bead blasted and the blade is rubbed to a 400 grit finish. Steel is 5160, 3X quench, 3X temper.

It has some serious mojo in a chop! Here is it pictured next to my personal .45ACP, that I built from an Argentine Systema.

chop.jpg
 
I finally got an explaination why blade makers normalize three times before hardening - the definition is different.Industrial normalize is above critical temp , blade makers normalize is below critical temp. However you are quenching and tempering three times - can you explain why ?
 
When I do the main grinding, I leave the blade somewhat thick in the edge. Then the blade is normalized two times with 5160. I bring it to nonmagnetic then let it cool in the forge. A side note here is that I place the tang end in first to start heating the blade...so as not to overheat the tip, then I reverse the blade until and even color appears. I do this in the hardening cyles too.

With 5160, I bring the blade up to just non-magnetic using the above technique...then quench the blade, edge down, in my Goddard's Goop quenchant warmed to 140F. The blade goes in about 2/3's of the width from the edge and is held there until the color leaves the spine....then all the way into the oil and it will sit there overnight....I repeat the process the next day, sometimes int he morning and the again at night...sometimes over a 3 day period.

The tempers on a big one like this are 375 F for a total of 3 two hr cycles.

The edge will flex on a brass rod and cuts very nicely.

I have been doing some experimenting with edge geometry and on this I flat ground the blade to a somewhat thick edge, then finish ground the edge at a convex...so it is really a cross between a flat and a convex ground blade. I like it enough that I think I will do all of them this way.

This knife will make manila rope fly with a quick snap cut!
 
Greg,
I don't post too often when commenting on other maker's work but that just impresses the tar out of me! That is excellent work, bubba! You nailed it! I mean that. The only "negative" is that it should be a Sig Sauer instead of a 1911 in the picture! :D

Craig
 
Originally posted by C L Wilkins
Greg,
The only "negative" is that it should be a Sig Sauer instead of a 1911 in the picture! :D

Craig

Haha...I used to have a SIG 226.....but most of my pistols are HK's
 
Oh yeah... Man that's the ticket, makes me wanna set up camp and stay that way. I don't think you could hold that bad boy and not chop something! :D

Dave
 
Greg, that's a kick-ass blade! I love it. I'm a sucker for a 1911 too. My favorite little plinker right now is a Steyr M-9 some guy traded me for a folder.
 
Originally posted by jhiggins
Greg, that's a kick-ass blade! I love it. I'm a sucker for a 1911 too. My favorite little plinker right now is a Steyr M-9 some guy traded me for a folder.

First off, thanks for the compliments!

The 1911 is the ultimate tinkerers pistol....once you get then where you want them....nothing else feels like it.

I do however love all my HK's!!!! The P9s is one of the ultimate .45ACP's
 
Damn that's one fine looking blade! It looks like it could fell trees and not even bust a sweat.

:D
 
I've had my head stuck in the Collaboration project all weekend and haven't been looking around much. Boy, I'm glad I saw this one! Great work. Very professonal.

RL
 
That is one fantastic looking knife. I too have a 1911, a Springfield Armory Mil-Spec.

Where do you purchase your Corby bolts? I just got some 5/16" from my supllier and they were so short that I doubt they could be used with any slabs over 1/8" thick which is useless to me.

Take care

My Knives and 1911-A1

My Handmade Knives
 
Totally awesome knife Greg! :D

If you had hand-rubbed the handle too, I think I'd be in love. That blade just looks AWESOME! :D

As far as the multiple quenching, from my studying and testing, it seems that the biggest reason for improved performance in knives isn't really all that complicated. For steels like 5160 and 52100 that have enough alloying elements in them that they would be considered more than a "simple steel" (i.e. W1, 10XX, etc.) it's difficult to get all of the alloy to diffuse into the matrix prior to quenching if your heat source is a forge.

Having a past as a personal trainer, I like to think of it in terms of muscle fibers. If you do a set of squats, you fire many many muscle fibers in the legs (predominantly quadriceps, but the entire lower body to an extent) on your first set. But you didn't fire all of them. So you do a second set, and fire those and some more to make up for the increased difficulty after already fatiguing the muscle during the first set. Then you do a third, and fire off even more. (and so on in certain situations). Ultimately you're trying to get as much as you possibly can out of your legs, and you couldn't do it as completely with a single set.

It's like this with the steel...if you can't get the alloy to diffuse in the first quench, then you return it to the forge, get more alloy to diffuse and then quench...and so on. The idea to try and get as much of the blade into Martensite as possible. And then bring that to tempered Martensite after tempering.

I've done a pile of tests on this notion with both my forge and my digitally controlled salt bath. With the forge, where I'm afraid of soaking the blade at temp because I can easily overshoot my austenitizing temp, I quickly quench and find that doing this three times helps me get the grain structure set up fine and achieving full or close to full hardness in the finally quenched blade.

With my salt bath, where I feel comfortable soaking blades (all day long if I like, because I WILL NOT overshoot the desired austenitizing temp), I can get the blades to full hardness with a very fine grain on the first quench. I have tried SEVERAL sessions of multiple quenching blades using the salt bath as the heat-source, and have not found improvement in the final blade. BUT, I will continue to test and find out what works for me.

In the end, these are my VERY humble opinions and could be the most ridiculous thing ever put in print. But it seems to line up with all of the reading and testing and visits with metallurgists I have done so far. Anybody can feel free to post their alternative thoughts on it, that's why I test so much, to LEARN and IMPROVE.

Not trying to hi-jack your thread Greg, I kind of went off there.

Most importantly, that knife ROCKS!!@%*@!!!j
Nick
 
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