Big one.....maroon linen and O-1

DEllis

DEllis

Part Time Steel Basher
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
966
Just over 5" closed.:eek: 4 3/16" blade of 3/32" O-1......antique finish.
Maroon linen micarta and nickel silver.

Comments and critique always welcome.....yes, I know it's too big:D

Darcy:)





 
Amazing blade , is it for sale ?

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
 
Looks great. Too big? Nope. I carried an old U.S. Schrade LB7 in my back pocket, upright & next to my wallet, while I was in high school. Yours would be perfect for that kind of carry.

And the scales are some of my all-time favorite material. When I was in the navy (1985-89), some of our equipment moved on skids made of what we called phenolic, which was micarta, IIRC. Any work we did on that material had to be taken to the ship's machine shop - the stuff had to be milled like any other metal component. Some of the toughest, longest lasting stuff I'd ever seen.

Great work. :cool: :thumbup:

~Chris
 
beautiful. i like the simple lines and the maroon micarta with silver nickel is top notch.
 
I don't know how to say it, but your clip blade profiles (on this knife, and on the dogleg) look quite "European" to me, and I think this might be a istinctive feature of your slipjoints (I assume you'll go on making them ;)).
Nice knife :)

Fausto
:cool:
 
All of the knives that you're posting look pretty darn good to me. 5" is about 1/2" too big for my needs, but I could see making an exception for a knife like this. :thumbup:

It is a little weird to see the three pins on the pile side and only two on the mark. I understand that the shield is probably pinned, making the top pin unnecessary on the mark side, but aesthetically it looks a little off to me. I'd prefer to have that top pin and shift the shield over a little to center it horizontally between the top pin and the backspring pin. However, that's nothing but nitpicking and I really like the knife as it's made. Great job, and thanks for sharing with us.
 
Perhaps a shorter crescent nail nick for the blade and some work on getting that backspring flush with the liners when closed, at the half stop and open. It's raised when closed.

Also if you shape the tang/ricasso so that it doesn't peek out or start from under the handle of the knife and instead start where the end of the handle is, it would provide a much cleaner look when open. I think another member mentioned that in one of your other build threads.

All in all, fantastic fitment on those bolsters and micarta covers. Some great work
 
Ryouchijtx said:
Perhaps a shorter crescent nail nick for the blade and some work on getting that backspring flush with the liners when closed, at the half stop and open. It's raised when closed.

Also if you shape the tang/ricasso so that it doesn't peek out or start from under the handle of the knife and instead start where the end of the handle is, it would provide a much cleaner look when open. I think another member mentioned that in one of your other build threads.

All in all, fantastic fitment on those bolsters and micarta covers. Some great work
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback. The backspring is the same in all three positions. This knife fought me every step of the way. The spring(and blade spine) sits about 4 thou higher than the liners/bolster......the lighting makes it look like more in the picture. There are a couple other minor cosmetic issues with this one due to it's obstinate nature during construction.

I see what you mean with the ricasso/tang......if I concave that area a bit more I could make the same width handle work as the tang is completely hidden in the closed position.

There is a lot to making these guys work well, especially since I try to maximize the blade to handle ratio, and keep the blade flat ahead of the bolster short(extra cutting edge) but still need some space for my stamp.

Cory Hess, thanks for the critique.
The shield is pinned, but that's a good suggestion.:thumbup:
I had planned to use a smaller pin on the pile side up close to the bolster, but ended up having to use the larger pin to fill the hole that was damaged when I took the cover off and reattached(did I mention this one fought me at every turn?:D) it again.


Appreciate the replies everyone. I'll get these figured out sooner or later.:thumbup:

Darcy:)
 
Proportions are very good, and yes it would work even as a smaller knife:D:D

I think it needs another pin on the mark side to balance things, as it has three on the pile side. In fact 4 pins would be even better...

Regards, Will
 
You're doing good Darcy. As I have said, I like your style. As Cory mentioned the pins would improve the appearance but it's a cosmetic thing really.

Chris
 
I like it very much. The antique finish on the O-1 is a nice idea. I have this peculiar species of OCD that when I get a carbon knife with a mirror finish, I will try like hell to preserve it. Of course, it eventually goes away and I can just get on with knife business. Having it come not-so-finely-polished like that would take a step out of my ownership and I wish more did.
 
I actually love that knife!!!

It's a lot bigger than what I normally carry, so it would do as a back pocket knife to augment what I usually carry, like a number 8 or 9 Opinel or large sodbuster. I love the sweeping lines of the blade and handle, and that it can be pinched open with work gloves on.

Can that same knife be made in a shadow pattern with birdseye pivot pin and no shield?

Love the antique finish on the blade!!!
 
jackknife said:
I actually love that knife!!!

It's a lot bigger than what I normally carry, so it would do as a back pocket knife to augment what I usually carry, like a number 8 or 9 Opinel or large sodbuster. I love the sweeping lines of the blade and handle, and that it can be pinched open with work gloves on.

Can that same knife be made in a shadow pattern with birdseye pivot pin and no shield?

Love the antique finish on the blade!!!
Click to expand...


A shadow configuration would be no problem.

I can't bear to see a nice satin finish get scuffed and scratched.......so for the most part, anything I make ends up with an etched finish for ease of maintenance.
I really like Damascus steel with a deep etch for a using knife as well. Almost impossible to make them look bad with normal use:thumbup:

Thanks for the kind words and honest feedback everyone.

Darcy:)
 
DEllis said:
Thanks for the feedback. The backspring is the same in all three positions. This knife fought me every step of the way. The spring(and blade spine) sits about 4 thou higher than the liners/bolster......the lighting makes it look like more in the picture. There are a couple other minor cosmetic issues with this one due to it's obstinate nature during construction.

I see what you mean with the ricasso/tang......if I concave that area a bit more I could make the same width handle work as the tang is completely hidden in the closed position.

There is a lot to making these guys work well, especially since I try to maximize the blade to handle ratio, and keep the blade flat ahead of the bolster short(extra cutting edge) but still need some space for my stamp.

Cory Hess, thanks for the critique.
The shield is pinned, but that's a good suggestion.:thumbup:
I had planned to use a smaller pin on the pile side up close to the bolster, but ended up having to use the larger pin to fill the hole that was damaged when I took the cover off and reattached(did I mention this one fought me at every turn?:D) it again.


Appreciate the replies everyone. I'll get these figured out sooner or later.:thumbup:

Darcy:)
Click to expand...

I can imagine. I can't fathom the patience needed going into a custom slipjoint. Keep on keepin' on :)
 
Wow !👍
All that things missing is a bale ( possibly a forged and twisted one )
If ever consider doing one with a forged out bail. It would be really cool to see an anvil shield.
I think maroon was a good choice, because it sorta looks like rosewood or something.
 
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