I went searching for an answer in the archives but got way too many results to find what I was looking for. What I'm trying to get an answer to is how much of the blade is hardened in the typical Bilton. When I was playing with a villager using various foods for a patina, I got a hamon from a dose of ketchup. I tried this on the more polished Bilton and only clouded the finish. Any knowledge, or good ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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I didn't check with a file,
but the hardness should be in the same range
as any of the khuks as it's (mine is)
hardened the same way.
Here's a pix that shows two distinct pours onto the edge.
The black lines crossing near the sweet spot
on the belly show the two pours.
Other than the spark of light on the tip,
the pix accurately shows how the blade looks
after the etch.
but the hardness should be in the same range
as any of the khuks as it's (mine is)
hardened the same way.
Here's a pix that shows two distinct pours onto the edge.
The black lines crossing near the sweet spot
on the belly show the two pours.
Other than the spark of light on the tip,
the pix accurately shows how the blade looks
after the etch.
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- May 16, 2002
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- 4,437
I had the same issue with a FeCl etch. After testing with my miniature Nicholson files, I determined that they are hard almost throughout. The the spine on mine is as hard as the edge,
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2003
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- 53
Dean
What is the process to get the hamon to show up?
alf
What is the process to get the hamon to show up?
alf
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2002
- Messages
- 3,397
Search here (Himalayan Imports forum) for keywords:
acid etch
And you'll find the pertinant/pertinent/pertenant/........
related threads.
Easy & quick to get the zone-line to show up.
5-10 minutes at the kitchen sink.
From there it depends how 'artistic' you want to take it.
Soap is the most important ingredient IMHO.
After reading some of the threads
If you have any questions
Glad to try to answer.